Wax Paper?

FrankRoss · 7th October 2006, 03:08 AM

Wax paper - the kind used for baking.

I pre-cut all of the veneer today (leaving 1/4" extra for play) and will apply to my speakers tomorrow after a good nights sleep.

As you know, once the contact adhesive dries on both surfaces, you get one shot at getting it right (lining it up). I'll be doing this solo this time, so I've been thinking of easier ways to avoid errors and un-needed head-aches. I wondered if I could lay some wax paper between the veneer and the MDF cabinet and gently pull the wax paper out as I work my way up?

Has anyone done this before? How well did it work? Or, is there an easier way to apply veneer when doing it single-handedly?

Cal Weldon · 7th October 2006, 03:47 AM

We always used newspaper when doing contact cement work. Two pieces overlapped at the centre. Set one end of your veneer with a light clamping or friend holding it and remove the paper from the other end. Once that end is set, remove the other piece of paper. Voila.

omni · 7th October 2006, 05:33 AM

You might try putting a couple of 1 inch dowel rods on the cabinet, then lay your veneer on them, then line it up and then roll the dowels off, allowing the veneer to droop into place, gently pressing it on to the cabinet....................Omni

RandomTom · 8th October 2006, 02:51 AM

I wouldn't use wax paper, for fear some of the wax would transfer from the paper to one of the sides. Then, just as the glue doesn't stick to the wax paper, it wouldn't stick to the waxed wood.

If I were going to experiment with something non-stick, I'd try a heavy weight polyethylene painters drop cloth. Cut a split section to fit, and clean it with some rubbing alcohol to take any oils/solvents off. Use it as Cal said, split in the center. Almost nothing sticks to PE. It works great as a release paper for epoxy or CA adhesives, I have no idea if it would work for contact cement.

jackinnj · 8th October 2006, 04:15 AM

omni describes the correct method -- most important thing is to take your time

boogs · 8th October 2006, 01:27 PM

I've used wax paper with good results. The torn edge can stick a little sometimes but the effect is minimal and seems to leave no residue.

HTH's

Scott

7th October 2006, 03:08 AM	#1
FrankRoss diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pennsylvania	Wax Paper? Wax paper - the kind used for baking. I pre-cut all of the veneer today (leaving 1/4" extra for play) and will apply to my speakers tomorrow after a good nights sleep. As you know, once the contact adhesive dries on both surfaces, you get one shot at getting it right (lining it up). I'll be doing this solo this time, so I've been thinking of easier ways to avoid errors and un-needed head-aches. I wondered if I could lay some wax paper between the veneer and the MDF cabinet and gently pull the wax paper out as I work my way up? Has anyone done this before? How well did it work? Or, is there an easier way to apply veneer when doing it single-handedly?

7th October 2006, 03:47 AM	#2
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	We always used newspaper when doing contact cement work. Two pieces overlapped at the centre. Set one end of your veneer with a light clamping or friend holding it and remove the paper from the other end. Once that end is set, remove the other piece of paper. Voila. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting

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7th October 2006, 05:33 AM	#3
omni diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Rossford, Ohio	You might try putting a couple of 1 inch dowel rods on the cabinet, then lay your veneer on them, then line it up and then roll the dowels off, allowing the veneer to droop into place, gently pressing it on to the cabinet....................Omni

8th October 2006, 02:51 AM	#4
RandomTom diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	I wouldn't use wax paper, for fear some of the wax would transfer from the paper to one of the sides. Then, just as the glue doesn't stick to the wax paper, it wouldn't stick to the waxed wood. If I were going to experiment with something non-stick, I'd try a heavy weight polyethylene painters drop cloth. Cut a split section to fit, and clean it with some rubbing alcohol to take any oils/solvents off. Use it as Cal said, split in the center. Almost nothing sticks to PE. It works great as a release paper for epoxy or CA adhesives, I have no idea if it would work for contact cement.

8th October 2006, 04:15 AM	#5
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	omni describes the correct method -- most important thing is to take your time

8th October 2006, 01:27 PM	#6
boogs diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Ontario, Canada	I've used wax paper with good results. The torn edge can stick a little sometimes but the effect is minimal and seems to leave no residue. HTH's Scott

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