better driver mounting

[mike]

I've seen this way of mounting bass/mid drivers, with the builder claiming it gives the driver room to 'breathe' See fig.2 As opposed to leaving the usual sqhare edge in 18mm MDF or whatever.

Any opinions on this? Does it make any difference?

 

[planet10]

The 2nd is better... i always do this. The thicker the baffle the more important it is. The front flange should also drop into a rebate so that it is flush with the baffle (well except for subs)

dave

 

[BrianGT]

Re: Re: better driver mounting

The 2nd is better... i always do this. The thicker the baffle the more important it is. The front flange should also drop into a rebate so that it is flush with the baffle (well except for subs)

dave

Dave, why shouldn't subs be flush with the baffle also? Does it simply not matter with the lower frequencies?

--
Brian

 

[mike]

Thanks for the quick feedback

I forgot to draw it with a flush fitting front, would the following be overkill? (pic. 3)

 

[BrianGT]

I would think that it would be worse to have more behind the baffle like in the latest picture. It would act as a larger cavity behind the woofer. I think if the baffle is thick enough, #2 with the baffle being flush is still the best.

--
Brian

 

[Peter Daniel]

I agree with Brian. If you really want to reinforce the area around the woofer, I would install braces or rods (front to back).

 

[mike]

So this would be the way to go? (pic 4)

 

[planet10]

So this would be the way to go? (pic 4)

Better yet of you brace the speaker, with another identical one firing out the back of the box -- also solves bafflestep issues.

dave

 

[bob4]

hmmmmm

Hi all,

I'm just wondering if you still can use T- nuts when rounding the edges??

Planet10, what's the front flange??

 

[Keld]

I'm just wondering if you still can use T- nuts when rounding the edges??

Round the edges between the T-nuts But instead of using T-nuts (which I hate ) you could make your own K-nuts (K as in Keld ). I think they are far better.

Why K-nuts:
they never come loose (a little glue helps)
you need little or no wood at the inside (You can have halfe holes and they still works perfect.
Its a DIY



Why not: require some tools and work to make them.

DVC Keld

 

[pinkmouse]

But instead of using T-nuts (which I hate ) you could make your own K-nuts

Cool idea Keld, I may have to give that a try one day!

BTW, did you mean K-Nuts (TM)

 

[Keld]

Hi

You can even make an airtight model. Called "Airtight audiophile grade K-nut" .Dont forget to spray them in gold ( I did and it sounded awfull).
Keld the Nut

 

[pinkmouse]

Called "Airtight audiophile grade K-nut

I hope you will be selling them online soon for about £300 per set!

Dont forget to spray them in gold, ( I did and it sounded awfull).

Tempting, but no, I'm not even going to go near that one!

 

[BrianGT]

Better yet of you brace the speaker, with another identical one firing out the back of the box -- also solves bafflestep issues.

dave

With the opposite phase, right? How would one go about designing a system with this concept?

--
Brian

 

[planet10]

Re: hmmmmm

Planet10, what's the front flange??

The part of the speaker that is parallel to the surface of the baffle and keeps the speaker from falling thru the cut-out.

dave

 

[planet10]

With the opposite phase, right? How would one go about designing a system with this concept?

No, wired in the same phase. Depending on how you filter the back driver it acts as a 0.5 speaker in an x,5-way system (but the 90 degree phase roll is hidden from the front speaker) or as the other half of a bipole.

examples:
TLb
bipolar ML-TQWT
Sub concept

The box is designed for 2-woofers, it is the topological config that differs.

dave

 

[claudio]

Hello,
did someone ever used the WELLNUTS or FLEXLOC ?
They should insolate better the drivers from the cabinet.

Claudio

 

[SpeakerBob]

""Hello,
did someone ever used the WELLNUTS or FLEXLOC ?
They should insolate better the drivers from the cabinet.

Claudio""


They look cool - I was going to use T-nuts, but may look for them instead...

I'm using a 38mm mdf baffle - is it best to route out a larger area at rear, leaving - say - 20mm thickness (which can then be routed), or do I look for a 35mm round over bit for the router? (On the mid baffle the rear magnet is just about clear of the back of the baffle )

Rob

 

[Digi]

No, wired in the same phase. Depending on how you filter the back driver it acts as a 0.5 speaker in an x,5-way system (but the 90 degree phase roll is hidden from the front speaker) or as the other half of a bipole.

examples:
TLb
bipolar ML-TQWT
Sub concept

The box is designed for 2-woofers, it is the topological config that differs.

dave

I have used the threaded rod technique, not with two woofers, I used only one. I ran threaded rod from the driver to the rear baffle. I used 1/4-20 from the front to back through two braces. At each brace the rods were locked in place with nuts. It works very well at stiffening the front and rear baffle. The only problem is the threaded rod rings like a bell. Going through the braces helped, then after applying a generous amount of silcone to the rods the ringing was gone.

Rob

 

[GanjaMax]

Hello,
did someone ever used the WELLNUTS or FLEXLOC ?
They should insolate better the drivers from the cabinet.

Claudio

Is that like a rubber bushing/nut? If the driver was able to vibrate without being very rigidly attached to the cabinet you'd probably hear some awfull noise as the driver repeatedly slaps the box...
- Max