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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brighton,UK
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Hello,
These speakers (dual concentric 3 way) seem to have a pronounced response around the crossover point at ~ 2.5kHz which I would like to address somehow. I have added extra damping material to the inside of the cabinet which has helped greatly with the upper mid range "hash" but I now need to sort out the tweeters filter. So....my next move, I think, is to raise the tweeters crossover point slightly to equalise this peak and reduce this irritating sibilance. The user manual states that the crossover is entirely first order at 400Hz and 2.5kHz. Is this the right approach? Am I missing something here? In the Tweeter's filter what is the function of the inductor? I have (hopefully) posted a crossover schematic which I have labelled with the information that I have so far. I don't have any values for the inductors and only the measured DC resistance for he individual drivers. Could I just change the 3u3 cap for a 2u2 or would this be a drastic change? Overall the speakers are rated at 6 Ohms. Any help would be very much appreciated.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brighton,UK
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Yes. I see your point.
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Martin + + =
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brighton,UK
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Does anyone know what the inductor L1 is for?
I'm desperately searching for an answer myself but getting nowhere. I'm also trying to simulate similar circuits using TinaTi and Isis with no luck yet. Any clues would be greatly appreciated. S3.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Total newb here but I think that L1 is there because it's 2nd order crossover.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brighton,UK
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Thanks Augerpro. All advice is very welcome!
The manual says "First order low pass, First order high pass". I suppose that this is innacurate. ![]() I'm still unsure wether or not to raise the high pass frequency, convert to a 1st order or add a notch filter?? Any ideas?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
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It's only 1st order on the mid,
As a 1st step I'd try a Zobel on the mid. Check out the on-line calculators here: http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html That page will help you recalc xover values if you want to change them too. Do you mave the model numbers of the drivers? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brighton,UK
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\Cheers Pete.
I'm pretty sure that the harshness is coming from the 1" HF horn. The internal foam damping has helped greatly with the mid but obviously the HF compression driver is unaffected by this. How would a zobel on the mid help in this case? The drivers are Tannnoys own : Model: 611 Year: 1991-3 Dual Concentric: 2033 Dual Concentric Size: 8" High Frequency: 1662/2033 High Frequency Size: 25mm Low Frequency: 2035 Low Frequency Size: 8" Second Low Frequency: Crossover Code: 1127 I'm going to investigate further tommorrow but the weakness appears to be either an unwanted resonance in the horn or it is crossed too low to cope adequately. My thinking here is that if I cross it a bit higher then it may be under less strain and therefore sound better. I'm having great difficulty with the online crossover simulators because I don't know the values of the inductor L1 ("66" is handwritten on it.) and also the true impedance of the HF driver (4.4 Ohms D.C. resistance). I'm not sure how to fill in the gaps?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
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If you're sure it's the tweeter, a zobel on the mid won't help.
Using the calculator 'backwards' I get a value of 1.33mH for the inductor. (and a Z of around 10-11.5ohms). Simplest thing to do is what you initially suggested, use a smaller cap, and see what happens (2u2 will get you up around 3KHz). Ideally you would need a change in inductor too, but only a small change downwards is indicated by the calculator. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Sorry for deleting my post but it was incorrect. I had assumed what you label as the mid was the 0.5 way bass and what you label as bass, is in fact the bass mid unit. In this case the c/o is 2nd order electrical, though its possible c/o slopes approximate 1st order acoustic is the c/o region. I think your diagram is possibly wrong, but could be right, overdamped 2nd order on the 0.5 way unit, 1st order on the bass/mid unit, 2nd order on the tweeter. Still it appears not to be a true 3-way. Adding Zobels is NOT the way to go, c/o values would then be completely wrong, including phase at the c/o point. Reducing the tweeters capacitor is worth trying. /sreten.
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