Zaph L18 Floorstander version

[richardtextex]

Im looking foward to build Zaph L18 design... i already have the dirvers but i was wondering if anyone has had expierencies with a 24 litres version of the speaker.

According to Tony Gee (humblehomemadehifi.com) Mkii:

"This driver is a very flexible driver and will also work in a floorstanding cabinet of 24 litres (when lightly filled with damping material) tuned to 35Hz it will give a –3dB point of about 37Hz. This version will give ample bass providing 4,5dB more output at 20Hz, +6dB at 30Hz, +4dB at 40Hz and +3dB at 50Hz. Up to you which one you want to build"

What changes should i make to crossover if any?

Or should i just to make an "empty section" floorstander and keep Zaphs original cabinet volumen.

Thank You!

[sdclc126]

Have you seen this project?

http://kram0.com/gallery/main.php?g2...90338228203989

Floorstander/rear ported - might be what you're looking for. Personally I would go sealed plus integrated small-ish stereo subs in the lower cabinets, but it depends on listening room size and personal preferences.

[tktran303]

Hi,

I'm the one who built that floorstander version. The single reason why? I had the cabinets already lying around, leftover from a cancelled project. (Troels Gravesen TJL 2-way)

If I were to do it again, I'd build the standmount version for 2 reasons

1) Floorstanders take more work, and IMHO not worth the effort for a simple 2-way. I'd build them only for 3 driver 2.5 or 3 ways.

2) Optimal performance can only be ensured if you follow the plans properly. This includes cabinet dimensions, as specified by John Krutke. Every part of his design is considered, and the more you deviate, the less likely you are to get intended results.

In my speaker, because of the narrowed but longer front baffle, SoundEasy predicted that my frequency response would sway +/- 1dB from the target. Doesn't sound like a lot, but 1dB is definitely discerniable. Can it still sound good? Yes. But what happens when it doesn't sound like you'd expect?

So if you must build a floorstander version, then at least maintain the baffle width and driver placement (relative to top edge). It will still a good sounding speaker, just no longer optimised perfectionistic John Krutke design.

Don't forget to consider your room. In-room bass/mid bass response is affected by room size and location of loudspeakers relative to room boundaries (walls/floor etc). IME bigger cabinets for lower port tuning and more extended bass response is not ALWAYS a good thing- in a small room is a good recipe for bloated boomy bass and congested sounding vocals.

[Salas]

Can you describe your version's performance, your system and room?

[richardtextex]

It seems i should build the Stand mounted version... Nice floorstanders tktran303!

Im a complete electronics dumb. By rule, should i keep the coil DCR to minimun, i mean less i best?

Or should i stick to the orgininal Coils resistance of the design:

L0: 2.2 mh - 3.0 ohm

L3: 0.1 mh - 0.1 ohm

L5: 0.5 mh - DCR = "not specified"

Wich coils do you recomend?

Resistors: Eagle vs Dayton-non Inductive??

[tktran303]

Coil resistance is one of the most FAQs.

This is covered in the project files well. In a nutshell, with the series inductors, as close as possible to the specified DCR.


Spend your money where it makes a bigger difference. There's a good amount of flexibility in the DCR for inductors L3 and L7, but try to keep L0 below .4 ohms to avoid affecting the woofer SPL too much.


Lower is not necessarily better, but always more expensive. (requires thicker wire).

[sangram]

Originally posted by richardtextex


L0: 2.2 mh - 3.0 ohm

0.3 ohm, or you'll be wasting a lot of power.

I use the Goertz copper foil 14 AWG inductor, it has about that much DCR, and is cheaper than the solen 14 AWG. I did not want a cored inductor, and the DCR of the 16 AWG coils was a little higher than recommended.

[sreten]

Hi,

If you are not planning on using a subwoofer there is nothing wrong
with building a well braced floorstanding ~ 24 litre reflexed version.

If you are planning on using a subwoofer build a sealed version.
(This needs less internal volume than a reflexed standmount)

The reflexed standmount is a half way between the two.

The croosover does not need changing as long as baffle dimensions
are the same, obviously extended downwards for the floorstander.

A floorstander is more complex than a standmount, but you don't need stands.

/sreten.

[sdclc126]

I agree wholeheartedly with Sreten here. From a purely aesthetic viewpoint, I don't like bookshelf type speakers on stands as mains - they look unfinished.

You can make your "stands" by making supporting cabinets of the same dimensions as the speakers, perhaps loading them with sand, etc. and using the same finish. The speakers could then mount on the support cabinets with spikes for example. With a sealed main the lower cabinet could of course be made as a stereo sub.

Or it could all be one seamless cabinet, either using a solid shelf brace to separate upper and lower, or two separate cabinets attached top to bottom, then veneered/finished as a single unit.

Again, this is purely an aesthetic preference on my part - any audible performance changes would of course be taken into consideration.

[richardtextex]

Originally posted by sdclc126

You can make your "stands" by making supporting cabinets of the same dimensions as the speakers, perhaps loading them with sand, etc. and using the same finish. The speakers could then mount on the support cabinets with spikes for example. With a sealed main the lower cabinet could of course be made as a stereo sub.
.

Great idea thanks... but filling them with sand would make them almost impossible to carry, right?