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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Hi Guys,
I have been reading over this site for a long time and have learn alot, but i think if anything it has made me even more confused as i now know enough to be slightly dangerous - and ask even more questions ![]() Basically what i am after is some help in designing a new set of main speakers. A little bit of extra info that may help: 1. Currently i have a very old set of B&W v202 which i bought in (i think) about 1992. I think they have been great but its time to upgrade. They are a ported 2 way with what looks to be about a 6" driver. 2. They will be used for probably 90% stereo music, and the other 10% for movies as the front main left and right speakers. 3. They will be driven by a Cambridge Audio Azur 540R Amp. 4. I already have a sub setup which is a set of dual 10" in a big ported box. I built this entirely myself and i think it is sensational, it literally shakes the next door neighbours shed door (probably 30m away) whenever i have music/movies up at a decent volume. 5. i listen to mainly electronic music (yeah i know i know) haha What i am after is something to replace the B&W. I wanted a set of speakers upstairs so i figured i would move them up there and get something new and better for the living room. Building the boxes to the right dimensions isnt a problem for me, but what is proving to be hard is finding a nice driver/tweeter combination that will server me well and get some matching crossovers for them! From all my research it seems as though there is a huge amount of importance on the crossover design. So this is where i need some help. Just as a comparison i have been looking at the Seas THOR design and have read alot of good info on them. Their drivers seem to get really great reviews. I have noticed that there is a kit available from madisound.com that will give you the drivers and crossovers. Is this a good option under my circumstances? All the reviews i have read say they have a heap of bass, but do i need this when i already have my sub - is it over kill and a waste of money? Is there something that will do the job better? Would i be better off going for something that is more mid range/ top end focused? I would like to keep the whole bill under about $2k Australian, but obviously want the best possible sound for my money (who doesnt). Would really appreciate any and all suggestions - and feel free to hit me up for more info if i havent provided enough. Really appreciate it guys! Timbo |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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First thoughts.
Kits, or well researched complete projects are a good start, but research is the key in finding what you want. The Thors seem to get good reviews, but I haven't heard them, so I can't give you a personal opinion. Don't blow your 2K budget on the first attempt. Pick something simple and straightforward, just to see how you get on with the hobby. There are lots of good designs that will only cost a couple of hundred bucks, and give you a good feel for what can be done.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Quote:
Can you make any suggestions on kits/designs that you mention are around a few hundred bucks? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
You wont go too far wrong with sealed versions of these for use with your subwoofer : http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker17.html Sensitivity is not as high as the B&Ws. /sreten.http://www.bwspeakers.com/downloadFi...204_manual.pdf |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I agree totally with pinkmouse, build something cheap and you may be surprised. I spent AU$300 on a set of 2ways and I am very pleased with the outcome. You could do that and then spend the other $1700 on a bigger, better set.
Cheers, Nic.
__________________
I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own - Adam Savage, Mythbuster |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Quote:
Tim |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Quote:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker17.html They mentioned that you can run it as a sealed version by: "This speaker can be built in a sealed configuration if required. If you wish to do that, you can use a smaller box size - But the baffle dimensions and driver locations must be preserved. Decrease box size by decreasing depth. Or, you could just go for a low Q rolloff and keep the box the same size but make it sealed. Why would you need sealed? Well, when using an active subwoofer crossover, integration does not neccessarily happen any easier with a sealed enclosure. But depending on room setup, you may however wish to tune midbass response by adjusting sealed Q." How do you think that would fit into the big scheme of things? Tim PS: i cant belive you found documentation on my old B&W's!! the net never ceases to amaze me..... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
I don't exactly agree with the integration waffle about sealed boxes, may be true for smaller speakers and using AV receivers with built in bass management features, but certainly not hifi amplifiers. For HiFi amplifiers the main speakers are run unfiltered, sealed box loading prevents sub overload and gives good room integration. The subwoofer is then used to to blend in low frequencies, the crossover point is not necessarily the speakers roll-off, depends on room gain. /sreten.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Quote:
And before anyone complains about my being biased against our neighbors I will also advise you not to order from Canada for the exact same reasons.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Illinois
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Timbo,
Check out this web site run by a fellow Australian: http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/ I am sure he can give some good advice and it will be based on drivers available in your country. |
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