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Old 21st August 2006, 05:01 PM   #1
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Default Best Caulking for speaker box building?

I am building my first DIY speaker. It is a center channel. I am curious about what I should use to ensure that I seal up the box correctly?

What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless?


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Dominick
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Old 21st August 2006, 05:03 PM   #2
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This is the speaker that I am building...


http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ure/index.html


Dominick
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Old 21st August 2006, 05:12 PM   #3
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Default Re: Best Caulking for speaker box building?

Quote:
Originally posted by Dominick22
What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless?
Accurately cut wood?

Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints.
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Old 21st August 2006, 05:20 PM   #4
boogs is offline boogs  Canada
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"Accurately cut wood?

Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints."

I've noticed a number of people posting about caulking the inside corners of various speaker enclosures. Like pinkmouse, i've never caulked any speakers i've made. I usually smooth over any glue that has beaded up on the inside so it forms a very small fillet - seems to do the trick.

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Old 21st August 2006, 05:35 PM   #5
badman is offline badman  United States
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Me too, I use a lot of glue and make sure it squeezes out, then wipe it off. Lots of glue and lots of pressure makes a good joint.
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Old 21st August 2006, 06:15 PM   #6
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alright--ill try it that way then


thanks guys,
Dominick
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Old 21st August 2006, 06:18 PM   #7
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

The obvious answer is none at all, if caulking is needed the joints are poor.
After glueing the PVA can be beaded into the corners, but simply for neatness.

/sreten.
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Old 21st August 2006, 10:46 PM   #8
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The man wants to know what caulk to use not that you guys are so good you don't have to use it.

Dominick,

Many different caulks will work well. Because you can't easily get inside the box once you have it sealed up, I recommend you use either a urethane based (leave for one day before closing box so it can gas off) or butyl (have lots of rags around to chase the strings) otherwise sold as acoustic sealant. Both of those are very durable in this application.
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Old 21st August 2006, 11:06 PM   #9
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Wheather I make a perfect joint (rare) or have a gap "oops", I just use clear GE silicone on the inside. Makes for airtight too.

For the outside, you can use a gap filling past of glue/sawdust (fine stuff from sanding), or autobody spot putty.
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Old 21st August 2006, 11:13 PM   #10
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Hi Gregg,

I recommend against the use of any silicone based caulk including the paintable version mixed with latex.

Silicones require a good a mount of prep work before application and this is something I've rarely seen on the inside of a box.

Again, I believe the two to consider are urethane based or butyl. Both of these will adhere well and remain pliable for many years.
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