Best Caulking for speaker box building?

Dominick22 · 21st August 2006, 05:01 PM

I am building my first DIY speaker. It is a center channel. I am curious about what I should use to ensure that I seal up the box correctly?

What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless?

Thanks,
Dominick

Dominick22 · 21st August 2006, 05:03 PM

This is the speaker that I am building...

http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ure/index.html

Dominick

pinkmouse · 21st August 2006, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dominick22
What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless?

Accurately cut wood?

Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints.

boogs · 21st August 2006, 05:20 PM

"Accurately cut wood?

Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints."

I've noticed a number of people posting about caulking the inside corners of various speaker enclosures. Like pinkmouse, i've never caulked any speakers i've made. I usually smooth over any glue that has beaded up on the inside so it forms a very small fillet - seems to do the trick.

Scott

badman · 21st August 2006, 05:35 PM

Me too, I use a lot of glue and make sure it squeezes out, then wipe it off. Lots of glue and lots of pressure makes a good joint.

Dominick22 · 21st August 2006, 06:15 PM

alright--ill try it that way then

thanks guys,
Dominick

sreten · 21st August 2006, 06:18 PM

Hi,

The obvious answer is none at all, if caulking is needed the joints are poor.
After glueing the PVA can be beaded into the corners, but simply for neatness.

/sreten.

Cal Weldon · 21st August 2006, 10:46 PM

The man wants to know what caulk to use not that you guys are so good you don't have to use it.

Dominick,

Many different caulks will work well. Because you can't easily get inside the box once you have it sealed up, I recommend you use either a urethane based (leave for one day before closing box so it can gas off) or butyl (have lots of rags around to chase the strings) otherwise sold as acoustic sealant. Both of those are very durable in this application.

Geek · 21st August 2006, 11:06 PM

Wheather I make a perfect joint (rare) or have a gap "oops", I just use clear GE silicone on the inside. Makes for airtight too.

For the outside, you can use a gap filling past of glue/sawdust (fine stuff from sanding), or autobody spot putty.

Cal Weldon · 21st August 2006, 11:13 PM

Hi Gregg,

I recommend against the use of any silicone based caulk including the paintable version mixed with latex.

Silicones require a good a mount of prep work before application and this is something I've rarely seen on the inside of a box.

Again, I believe the two to consider are urethane based or butyl. Both of these will adhere well and remain pliable for many years.

21st August 2006, 05:01 PM	#1
Dominick22 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2005	Best Caulking for speaker box building? I am building my first DIY speaker. It is a center channel. I am curious about what I should use to ensure that I seal up the box correctly? What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless? Thanks, Dominick __________________ A real amateur enthusiast!

21st August 2006, 05:03 PM	#2
Dominick22 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2005	This is the speaker that I am building... http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ure/index.html Dominick __________________ A real amateur enthusiast!

21st August 2006, 05:35 PM	#5
badman Custom Title diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal	Me too, I use a lot of glue and make sure it squeezes out, then wipe it off. Lots of glue and lots of pressure makes a good joint. __________________ I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned!

21st August 2006, 06:15 PM	#6
Dominick22 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2005	alright--ill try it that way then thanks guys, Dominick __________________ A real amateur enthusiast!

21st August 2006, 10:46 PM	#8
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	The man wants to know what caulk to use not that you guys are so good you don't have to use it. Dominick, Many different caulks will work well. Because you can't easily get inside the box once you have it sealed up, I recommend you use either a urethane based (leave for one day before closing box so it can gas off) or butyl (have lots of rags around to chase the strings) otherwise sold as acoustic sealant. Both of those are very durable in this application. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting


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21st August 2006, 05:20 PM	#4
boogs diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Ontario, Canada	"Accurately cut wood? Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints." I've noticed a number of people posting about caulking the inside corners of various speaker enclosures. Like pinkmouse, i've never caulked any speakers i've made. I usually smooth over any glue that has beaded up on the inside so it forms a very small fillet - seems to do the trick. Scott

21st August 2006, 06:18 PM	#7
sreten diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brighton UK	Hi, The obvious answer is none at all, if caulking is needed the joints are poor. After glueing the PVA can be beaded into the corners, but simply for neatness. /sreten.

21st August 2006, 11:06 PM	#9
Geek diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004	Wheather I make a perfect joint (rare) or have a gap "oops", I just use clear GE silicone on the inside. Makes for airtight too. For the outside, you can use a gap filling past of glue/sawdust (fine stuff from sanding), or autobody spot putty.

21st August 2006, 11:13 PM	#10
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	Hi Gregg, I recommend against the use of any silicone based caulk including the paintable version mixed with latex. Silicones require a good a mount of prep work before application and this is something I've rarely seen on the inside of a box. Again, I believe the two to consider are urethane based or butyl. Both of these will adhere well and remain pliable for many years. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting

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