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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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i understand what you say and thanks for yours advices.i won't build something like this on my own,there are other people behind me who can do this.my problem is that i can't know what parameters should the drivers have(tweter,mid,woofer and sub).the same impedance sure but what about the others(power,spl)?
we know that the hole project is very difficult and specific but we are about to build a 4-way cone shape cabinet with bass reflect speaker system. is there anybody who has already do something like this?or some pics if you have about this project? thanks all of you |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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is there someone to tell me what parameters(watts,spl)should these drivers have(tweter,mid,woofer,sub,) for a 100watts loudspeaker at all for example?
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#3 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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I would question why you think you need 4-ways. It would be worth your while reading up on the subject, a book like David Weems' Designing Building and Testing Loudspeaker Systems would be a good start, or Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Geneva, Switzerland
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If you're going to multi-amp your speaker system, all your impedance, puwer etc. problems come down to "will this driver get loud enough for the reqired function, with adequate quality" All other details can be taken up electronically. If, however, you are planning on a passive crossover, trying to match components that are not sold as a set can be extremely complicated, particularly if you don't have access to sophisticated test gear. (it's complicated enough if you do) Most manufacturers of bass loudspeakers will give you porting details for their drivers; were you considering integrating the subs into the cabinets?
Fortunately mid and high frquency drivers are reasonably non-critical about cabinets, (well, apart from hard corners and things), so it's only your bass and subs that are attempting to shake the cabinets (and crossover components or amps) apart; use more glue than you think can possibly be nescessary, then add some; more amateur speaker cabinets are spoiled by rattles and buzzes than ever miscalculated ports. Phase? (yes, it is important, particularly at crossover points, of which you have many) vertical alignment, particularly cossover components (if you get inductor coil buzz, it's a pig to get rid of ; it is possible to do better than any of the mass-produced cabinet manufacturers, but only because you're willing to put indefinite quantities of time and effort into a small run, which they can't. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: nsw
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If we figure that each driver may cover a little over two octaves it becomes clear, that the HP and LP will be closely interacting in the case of the woofer, and of the midrange. The sub will also be interacting with the mid, and the woofer with the tweeter.
A 4th order setup will undoubtedly not make things easier. It will of course be possible to choose drivers closely suited to their bands, but more difficult to match them to each other. If you can overcome the problems, I think you'd have a sweet speaker. Good luck. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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1. Bass/midbass - go fore a 6" driver well suited fore a two-way, it will take some power, and you can place crossover point "high"
2. Find a midrange with a smooth and high extended frequency responce, around 10khz before rolloff with out peaks - so you can place crossover point above 3000hz 3. Buy the best tweeter you can afford It should be possible to reach 90db What is your budget ? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Her are two drivers that I would like to try myself
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w6-623.htm http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w4-1129c.htm Tweeter I would choose Vifa or Scanspeak |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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thank's for the information that you give me but my question is very simple.I want to buy the drivers but I do not know the proportions that should they have like watts and spl in order to collaborate rightly and I have right level of intensity in the all acoustic spectrum.give me an example for a loudspeaker 100watts rms.
---------------------------------------- watts spl tweter / ? / ? / / midrange / ? / ? / / wooofer / ? / ? / / subwoofer / ? / ? |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Your trying to pair drivers based on manufacturers rated sensitivity? I'd have to very very strongly echo Rich's comments here, go out and buy a couple of good loudspeaker design books, build a kit or established design, anything but waste money on this proposed 4-way. By the sounds of it you don't have knowledge to pull it off. No offense intended, I'm hoping you don't waste money that's all. |
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