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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Hi,
I am living in Adelaide, South Australia. I am having difficulty in sourcing the 75mm diameter x 140mm long tune port as per suggestion on the diy clone page. Any suggestion on where I can get these in aust greatly appreciated. Also, where else can I source speaker parts in Australia? So far I know of only the places listed below. There must surely be more out there for the aussie diyer's? www.jaycar.com.au www.rzaudio.com www.wescomponents.com www.aranmaracoustics.com.au Thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Speaker bits in Port Melbourne are pretty good. I think its www.speakerbits.com, soundlabs group and decibel hifi have some stuff too.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Equinox audio for larger inductors, 1.8mm and 3mm
Their retail is cheaper than any trade pricing I can find including O/S. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Greenwood, IN
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I just went to hardware/plumbing store and got a 3"/75mm piece of plastic pipe. Its not as pretty as the fancy flaired ones but does the job.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'll draw you a picture if you need one when i get home. As budwieser suggested use 75mm PVC pipe.
Mark out the internal diameter of the pipe where you want it with an offcut (cut on a tablesaw, you should be able to do 75mm in one pass easily enough). Cut it out roughly, undersized by a few mm with a jigsaw. Depending on the final flare radius required either glue the pipe with an mdf "doughnut" for support, or glue a disc (for extra mdf depth), then the "doughnut". After everything has dried, use a flush trip bit with a router to get the hole through the MDF part flush with the PVC pipe. Finally use a round over bit (i personally use a 25mm diameter, smaller is OK but bigger is better, not cheap however). to get the round over, the same thing can be done for the inside if one builds the mdf around the other end and does the rounding over before placing it within the box. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Hi Noodle_Snacks,
Could you please draw a diagram of what you mean. Thanks. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hope the attached helps, let me me now if you don't understand it.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Since you're in Adelaide, and doing the Proac 2.5, this obscure link may help you:
http://www.instantbitumen.com.au/ ...they are in Adelaide and sell liquid bitumen in small containers which I was researching when I was thinking of building the Proac - lots of Proac builders have worried long and hard about how to line the enclosure with bitumen. I was thinking about soaking felt with this and letting it set. Got to wait for the fumes to go though (and find out about toxicity etc...) |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Greenwood, IN
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You might try commercial floor tiles. There about 3mm thick. Glued them on with 3M spray glue. This is what I am using since I did not want to deal with any fumes.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Thanks fellows,
I have found a product called Wavebar which would suit what I need as the deadening material. I can get it from a local supplier as well so that would be good. By the way, what have you guys used for the acoustic damping material? I can get 200gsm dacron from a local lounge maker for about $4/meter but it looks a bit thin (at approx 25mm to 30mm) compared to the pictures on the clone site. I was thinking of getting pyramid acoustic foam but this could be costly or over the top. Cheers. |
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