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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 7th December 2002, 09:03 AM   #1
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Location: brisbane
Default Finished 2 ways..... mixed result

Finally got my vifa 2 ways done today.

I decided a couple of days ago that these cabinets would not be finished, but would serve as test units only - unhappy with final joins, T-nuts not lining up well, unanticipated clearances for T-nuts etc etc, hammering in T-nuts also buggered the seal on rear panel too

well got them hooked up tonight, and am very happy audio wise, both CD and DVD.... much beter than my slightly aging wharfdales.....

now to redesign cabinets, remake crossovers nicely and then work on centre channel!

I used vifa d25ag3506 tweeters, and vifa p17wj0008 woofers in a 11-12L sealed box, nice crisp bass and a better treble response clearly audible....
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Old 7th December 2002, 09:13 AM   #2
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xo info too!!!!
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Old 7th December 2002, 09:51 AM   #3
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plasmodium wrote

Quote:
hammering in T-nuts also buggered the seal on rear panel too
Justa little hint: If you forget to hammer the T-nuts in before attaching the baffle (or if there is any other reason to do it later) you can screw them in using a screw from the front side. Be sure to use someting to prevent the screw's head to be pulled into the wood. I usually use a flat piece of metal with an appropriately sized whole in it. You also have to grease or oil the screw a little, but make sure it's not too much.

Regards

Charles
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Old 7th December 2002, 11:23 AM   #4
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Are the woofers using the entire enclosore, or is it sectioned off?
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Old 7th December 2002, 02:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by phase_accurate




Justa little hint: If you forget to hammer the T-nuts in before attaching the baffle (or if there is any other reason to do it later) you can screw them in using a screw from the front side. Be sure to use someting to prevent the screw's head to be pulled into the wood. I usually use a flat piece of metal with an appropriately sized whole in it. You also have to grease or oil the screw a little, but make sure it's not too much.
Hey, I like that idea. I'll keep that one in mind!
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Old 8th December 2002, 05:56 AM   #6
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Default Crossover/cabinets

This is the crossover I used, credit to www.mass.com.au.
All resistors are 10W wirewound, all capacitors are 250V metallised polypropylene, the tweeters inductor is a store bought 0.8mm coil, the woofers are homemade 2mm coils.

The cabinets are mainly stands, with the woofer section being about 11-12L in volume, sealed. There is a ventilated brace between the two drivers, and sides/top/bottom lined with barium impregnated vinyl sound deadening stuff, the backs lined with acoustic foam. (see pic)

All cabinets are made of 18mm MDF, glued and clamped.
external dimensions 190mm*280mm*900mm (woofer section about 340mm high)

lee
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Old 8th December 2002, 05:57 AM   #7
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Default Another pic

picture of interior
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Old 8th December 2002, 11:56 PM   #8
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I use a C-clamp to press the T-nuts into the MDF, this works the best IMHO. You and put them in after you attach the front panel and apply the veneer, just use a wood block on the front panel so it doesn't get mared

Rob
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Old 9th December 2002, 05:33 AM   #9
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don't mean to hijack, but may i ask what are these T-Nuts you speak of, where they go, and their purpose?

thanks
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Old 9th December 2002, 06:50 AM   #10
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Default T-nuts

The nut is driven (or otherwise) into the rear of the baffle, and gives you a thread for using bolts to attach drivers, instead of wood screws, which may become loose after being removed and replaced a few times, also, the Allen-key socket heads look great....

With my project revision, I am going to make a slightly larger hole than is required for the T-nut, and flatten out the spikes on the nut, this way it will allow some room for error in hole placement (because even the tiniest error and you won't get all of the bolts in )

I'll just use some epoxy glue to hold the T-nuts in place, the driver and bolts will effectively clamp the nuts in the perfect spot while the glue dries.

Beware though that the nuts take up considerable room, as they are 18mm in diameter - this may cause probs with clearances from driver rebates to side panels etc etc - I found this out the hard way...... take this into account with planning.

(I picked up these at Queensland Fasteners at Eagle Farm if you are interested, seeing you are in Brisbane too - the T-nuts were hard to find in such a small size - I use 1024 (3/16") threads.)

cheers

lee
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