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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: brisbane
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Finally got my vifa 2 ways done today.
I decided a couple of days ago that these cabinets would not be finished, but would serve as test units only - unhappy with final joins, T-nuts not lining up well, unanticipated clearances for T-nuts etc etc, hammering in T-nuts also buggered the seal on rear panel too ![]() well got them hooked up tonight, and am very happy audio wise, both CD and DVD.... much beter than my slightly aging wharfdales..... now to redesign cabinets, remake crossovers nicely and then work on centre channel! I used vifa d25ag3506 tweeters, and vifa p17wj0008 woofers in a 11-12L sealed box, nice crisp bass and a better treble response clearly audible....
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I think I need a bigger boat.... |
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#2 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Oct 2002
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xo info too!!!!
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Switzerland
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plasmodium wrote
Quote:
Regards Charles |
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#4 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Are the woofers using the entire enclosore, or is it sectioned off?
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Connecticut, The Nutmeg State
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: brisbane
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This is the crossover I used, credit to www.mass.com.au.
All resistors are 10W wirewound, all capacitors are 250V metallised polypropylene, the tweeters inductor is a store bought 0.8mm coil, the woofers are homemade 2mm coils. The cabinets are mainly stands, with the woofer section being about 11-12L in volume, sealed. There is a ventilated brace between the two drivers, and sides/top/bottom lined with barium impregnated vinyl sound deadening stuff, the backs lined with acoustic foam. (see pic) All cabinets are made of 18mm MDF, glued and clamped. external dimensions 190mm*280mm*900mm (woofer section about 340mm high) lee
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I think I need a bigger boat.... |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: brisbane
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picture of interior
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I think I need a bigger boat.... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: USA
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I use a C-clamp to press the T-nuts into the MDF, this works the best IMHO. You and put them in after you attach the front panel and apply the veneer, just use a wood block on the front panel so it doesn't get mared
Rob |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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don't mean to hijack, but may i ask what are these T-Nuts you speak of, where they go, and their purpose?
thanks |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: brisbane
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The nut is driven (or otherwise) into the rear of the baffle, and gives you a thread for using bolts to attach drivers, instead of wood screws, which may become loose after being removed and replaced a few times, also, the Allen-key socket heads look great....
With my project revision, I am going to make a slightly larger hole than is required for the T-nut, and flatten out the spikes on the nut, this way it will allow some room for error in hole placement (because even the tiniest error and you won't get all of the bolts in )I'll just use some epoxy glue to hold the T-nuts in place, the driver and bolts will effectively clamp the nuts in the perfect spot while the glue dries. Beware though that the nuts take up considerable room, as they are 18mm in diameter - this may cause probs with clearances from driver rebates to side panels etc etc - I found this out the hard way...... take this into account with planning. (I picked up these at Queensland Fasteners at Eagle Farm if you are interested, seeing you are in Brisbane too - the T-nuts were hard to find in such a small size - I use 1024 (3/16") threads.) cheers lee
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