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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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Hi All,
I have been very intrigued the B3S after reading John K's tests on ZaphAudio, to use as a midrange in a sort-of budget 3-way floorstanding design, which is still just in the conceptual stage. I am thinking of using the Dayton DA175 for the lows, and the SEAS 27TBFCG to do the tweeting. What I'm wondering about is the B3N - it's the same diameter but with a round frame, slightly different parameters, and a lower operating range - 100 to 7k as opposed to 300 to 15k (claimed) for the 3S. The 3N seems to be a little better suited as a wide midrange due to the lower bottom end, but I'm thinking that crossing at or near its lower limits might put a strain on it at higher listening levels. Then there is the B4N - just about the same bottom end as the 3 but can probably handle SPL better in that region. What I'm a little afraid of is that rather prominent FR peak at 3K - an issue with neither of the smaller drivers. I want to assume that all three drivers have relatively the same sound characteristics, but without seeing any distortion data like Zaph's for all of them I am hesitant to jump to conclusions. So, has anyone tested the other two, or seen tests of them? On the other hand, I could dispense with the midrange altogether and go with just the Dayton woofs and SEAS tweets - with the right crossover I think they'd make a good combination - perhaps in a TMM configuration. OK - let me have it!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Montreal
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This is just my opinion
The Hi Vi B3N is rather low on SPL about 79, not a good choice for a midrange. I would take the money from the B3N/S and upgrade the woofer to Dayton RS and go two way. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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On PE the SPL for both 3" Hi Vis is listed at 81, while the B4N is shown at 85 - not super efficient but better.
I was considering the the cheaper Dayton aluminum drivers because they're, well, cheaper, and supposed to be pretty decent. The DA175-8 happens to match the efficiency of the B4N too.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Italy
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Hi,
IMHO, 3" is a very good extended range. In a short listening test in a friend's system the B3" was always better than B4". If SPL and sensitivity is not your first target, I suggest the 3". My friend have matched with a HI-Vi M6 and M5 and various tweeters. My preference is for a true first acoustic order at 800-1000Hz and about 4000-5000Hz. 80 dB / 2,83v / 4pi target perdone my basic english Cheers, Inertial |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
In a 3 way the bass driver needs to be 4 to 6db more efficient than the mid. Its a common misunderstanding and one of the causes of the many dissapointing 3 way designs people make for themselves. Building 3 ways is far more complex (especially crossover wise) than people imagine and very difficult to get right. The dayton DA175-8 drivers used in pairs would be appropriate to a 4ohm (in the bass) 85to87db/2.83V midband level louspeaker. (not particularly high, but means bass will be good for the size) They do give very good performance + levels for the money. As you seem to be interested in 3-ways : I'd be tempted to mate them with the Dayton RS52, but note the impedance peak of the RS52 needs careful c/o handling. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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Inertial & Sreten -
Thanks for those replies. Sreten I'm leaning in the direction you suggest - two DA175-8s + tweet in a 2-way - simpler design and nice strong bass. No I'm not necessarily bent on 3-way designs - I guess I was a little concerned with cone break-up in large metal woofers crossed relatively high to a tweeter, but a high order x-over and a tweet like the 27TBFCG which can be crossed low address that issue. I'm really wanting to do something like Zaph's L18/27TBFCG in a floor stander, but with two woofs and sealed, but the L18s are just too pricey for me and the DA175s would be a good substitute. I could use 1 L18 or DA175 + sub, but I'd like the mains to be as "self sufficient" in the low end as possible. The sub will be there either way - I just like strong mains that aren't just tall bookshelf speakers.
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