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Old 18th July 2006, 02:14 PM   #1
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Default Meadowlark Blue Heron - lots of questions

I'm trying to help a friend of mine with a pair of Meadowlark Blue Heron speakers that are sickly. The pair he has uses the Audx gas piezo tweeters. One of the midrange drivers isn't working. When I tried popping the midrange off of the front baffle after removing the bolts the driver wouldn't budge. What sort of adhesive did Meadowlark use to seal the driver to the box. I didn't want to pry given the superb finish on the baffle board for fear of scuffing things. How do you get the mid driver off without marring the finish? Anyone know what driver was used for the midrange? It has a clear cone material.

Another concern involves the voicing of the speakers. The speaker with all drivers functioning seems to be rather recessed sounding in the mids and highs. Has anyone experimented with different midrange drivers or crossover points? The transition between the woofers and midrange sounds as though there's something missing. The highs also seem very restrained. The owner commented that compared to some monitors he regularly uses they seem dull sounding He also noted that the Meadowlark speakers seemed dull sounding compared to my Dynaudio driver based monitors.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or sources for upgrades would be appreciated - thanks in advance!
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Old 18th July 2006, 02:17 PM   #2
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Are they the HD3P gold domes? If so, the recessed sound is quite likely due to the extremely low distortion of these drivers, quite often the ear interprets HF distortion as a "forwardness" in the sound. However, if you want to swap them out for something new, I would be more than willing to take them off your hands for a reasonable price.
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Old 18th July 2006, 03:21 PM   #3
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Hi - gold domed tweeters are in the box. At this point we're trying to get the pair back into shape, so parting out isn't in the cards at this point unless you want both boxes...
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Old 18th July 2006, 03:38 PM   #4
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazin...wlarkheron.htm
Click the image to open in full size.

Hi,

Audax aerogel apparently.

I believe the tweeters c/o point is pretty high and effectively fixed
as the tweeters come fitted with the components already I think.

According to the article above the c/o is first order so should be simple to experiment.

/sreten.
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Old 18th July 2006, 04:04 PM   #5
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Hi tuberube,

My system to "extract" that HM100Z0 is a bit rude.
You can take a screw ( for metal ) and delicate turn it in the
hole. Just a bit to "grip" . Then you can pull the screw with a plier.
The force requested is very little.
Normally it works with neoprene gasket. Never tried with strange adhesive.

Cheers,
Inertial
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Old 19th July 2006, 12:15 AM   #6
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Are all the drivers 8 ohm impedance?
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Old 19th July 2006, 02:59 AM   #7
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Rather than a 'strange adhesive', it is probably just a case of the sealing strip bonding to the sealed surfaces. I recently had to have Dynaudio drivers refoamed. All conventional attempts to remove them failed. I ended up slicing through the foam surround and hooking some thick steel wire around one of the basket ribs and pulling (hard). It worked but was only viable becuase the surrounds were to be replaced.

In your case, you could also try using a hammer and nail punch on some of the mounting holes, to try to move the driver sideways. Warming of the driver chassis with a hair drier may also assist.

Nigel
(who is normally much more delicate in approach)
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Old 19th July 2006, 07:48 AM   #8
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I'm also wondering about accessing the crossover - I'd taken out the woofers to get a look inside, but didn't find an accessible crossover. I assume it's under part of transmission line - has anyone gotten inside for a good look?
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Old 19th July 2006, 01:30 PM   #9
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by tuberube
I'm also wondering about accessing the crossover - I'd taken out the woofers to get a look inside, but didn't find an accessible crossover. I assume it's under part of transmission line - has anyone gotten inside for a good look?
Hi,

read the article i linked to, the c/o is in the base of the speaker.

/sreten.
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Old 19th July 2006, 01:51 PM   #10
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I'd checked the link you provided - I was hoping someone had actually figured out how to access the crossover without ripping the cabinet apart. The designer must not have wanted folks to see what's under the hood.

As for the tight seal on the driver frame, I'd thought about poking some holes through the cone of the driver and use some sort of pliers to pull the driver out - thanks for the suggestion!
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