New speaker design... comments please !

[Andy G]

I have all the drivers for this, and the Tassie Blackwood. Seems like it might be workable.
I have to use up the drivers somehow ;-))

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/maybe.jpg

[jamikl]

Looks good to me Andy. I have come round to thinking that this type of setup is what I need to build when I am able. How do you find those Jaycar speakers. A couple of them seem to model quite well but I have seen adverse comments about them, that is all the models they advertise, in threads here!!!

I do like the look of what you have come up with. I may have room to make something like this a bit wider too. Please let us know how it performs.
jamikl

[Andy G]

Thanks, only at idea stage at the moment... x-o points may be an issue !!

As for the Jaycar drivers, 'some' of them are very good, some aren't !!
The hi-powered poly 10" can certainly do the low end, but I would not try to use it a 2-way !
I have also found the old "Response" carbon fibre 8", 10" and 12" to do a very good job. I have used the 8" with an old Yamaha tweeter, in a 2-way, and it sounds very nice, and I use a pair of older style 12" carbons in my main speakers (Gumby)
With the lower priced, non-"Response" drivers, you get what you pay for.

The current line-up form Jaycar, I'm not sure of though !

[leonrocks]

Will probably not play all that loudly. Fairly large speaker for only small spl output before distortion becomes obvious. The mids will distort before you can cross them over to a side firing woofer.

You have to remember how much boost an open baffle design needs below it's roll off point. Active crossovers are almost essential and will allow good sound at low listening levels.

[Andy G]

Hi Leon,

The speaker is already mutating to try to address the x-o point issue. The 10's I have are smooth enough up to 1k, so with this new config I may aim for a low x-o point around 300-350 Hz

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/maybe2.jpg

[lndm]

Originally posted by Andy Graddon
The current line-up form Jaycar, I'm not sure of though !

What's left of 'em, that is! Only 2 ten's in this years cattledog.

I used to use the re-sponse 10" poly. I think they're worth the money you'll pay, and are easy to work with. I found them to be good at everything but great at nothing. I had them closed, vented and TL'ed, and they always gave a good performance. I used them for more than two years before I decided to donate them to the car.

[leonrocks]

Go as low as you can with the mids before distortion. The freq plots of the 10" may be smooth but the mids will do mids better.

250-300Hz is probably about the limit at a guess, depending how loud you like it.

[Andy G]

Yep, 250-350 is were I am now considering aiming for the low x-o point. The mids are pretty smooth, so breqakup modes etc, so I should be able to take the top end to around 3000, and the Peerless tweet has a small faceplate, so all should work quite well.

Its just the "how to build it" the best way that I now have to consider. I do have a procedure mapped out in my mind for making the ring for the bass driver. Should be interesting to see if it works !!

[polkymon]

I'll throw this one out there. Not sure if it fits in your design parameters but I need the practice anyways.