How do I flush mount a non-round tweeter?

[owdi]

I'm upgrading my desktop speakers (pictured below), and I need a small flange shielded/neo tweeter for optimal placement on my narrow baffle. I really want to use the Vifa D26NC55, but I'm afraid I will not be able to properly flush mount it.

This is what the tweeter looks like:



I found this thread, but I don't understand rabbitz's response. Can someone explain what he is talking about?

My current desktop speakers:



Dan

[pinkmouse]

OK, first things first, you need a router with a bush that fits on the baseplate, or a bit with a top mounted bearing. If the latter, you make a jig with a cutout exactly the size of the tweeter fixed to the front baffle with something like double sided tape. If the former, you use exactly the same method, but your jig is larger than the size of the tweeter by the difference betwen the collar and the cutter.

Does that help?

[owdi]

Originally posted by pinkmouse
OK, first things first, you need a router with a bush that fits on the baseplate, or a bit with a top mounted bearing. If the latter, you make a jig with a cutout exactly the size of the tweeter fixed to the front baffle with something like double sided tape. If the former, you use exactly the same method, but your jig is larger than the size of the tweeter by the difference betwen the collar and the cutter.

Does that help?

I think I'm starting to get it. I do have a router, but I don't have a bit with a top mounted bearing. I may have the bush, I'll look in my toolbox tonight.

The part I'm still unclear on is how to make the jig in the first place.

Just thinking this through... One idea I have is to surface mount the tweeter on a piece of 1/2" mdf, then run the router around it. Using the tweeter faceplate as a guide, and cutting all the way through the mdf, would allow me to cut out a jig. I could then clamp this jig to my baffle for the final cutout. However, I suspect my final cutout will be too large by half the width of my bit.

Dan

[pinkmouse]

I use a jigsaw, (hmm, now where did that name come from? ), cutting just inside the line, then tidy up with wood rasps and coarse sandpaper. Just work slowly and carefully, and you will get a good result. Until I moved two years ago, I had about two dozen jigs for various drivers, but somehow they didn't make it to the new place.

BTW, that desk is far two neat and tidy!

[doorman]

http://www.audiodiycentral.com/nt_ir...rcutouts.shtml

[ptwining]

An alternative I've used is a tool called a "roto-zip". It's made for cutting drywall and panelling. Sort of a mega-dremel tool. They're cheap and easy to do detail work with.

Much smaller than a router and good for light jobs like cutting jigs - no good for cutting anything heavy.

Check your local DIY place like Home Depot or whatever you've got near you.

Nice tool for small stuff - high rpm and very manoeverable.

Regards,
Tom

[owdi]

pinkmouse - Thanks for the help, I may have to look into buying a jigsaw if this other method doesn't work. All the junk was moved to the side of the desk for the picture.

doorman - great link, that sounds easy enough and should give good results. Looks like my idea was close, I was just missing a step.

In case the link dies and someone finds this thread four years later, here are the steps.


1) Pass router around driver plate using 1/4" bit to make template #1

2) Pass router inside first template using 1/4" bit to create template #2

3) Attach 3/4" bushing and pass router inside template #2 and voila, perfect recessed baffle!


Dan

[owdi]

Originally posted by ptwining
An alternative I've used is a tool called a "roto-zip". It's made for cutting drywall and panelling. Sort of a mega-dremel tool. They're cheap and easy to do detail work with.

Much smaller than a router and good for light jobs like cutting jigs - no good for cutting anything heavy.

Check your local DIY place like Home Depot or whatever you've got near you.

Nice tool for small stuff - high rpm and very manoeverable.

Regards,
Tom

I think I would look into a roto-zip before getting a jig saw, since it could be more percise. Thanks.

Dan

[rabbitz]

I'll try again to make it easier to understand (I hope).

In the pic there is a template made by a jigsaw, the router jig guide (round silver thingy that attaches on the router base) and a test cut for the D26NC.

The jig has to be made oversize so the bit will cut at the right place/size. This is worked out by (outside dia of jig guide - outside dia of bit)/2.

The jig guide = 22mm
The bit = 6mm
So (22-6)/2=8, which means the jig has to be 8mm larger than the driver all round so when you cut, the outside of the bit is cutting at the right place.... phew.

I use CAD to do the jig drawing or you can trace around the driver and add the extra amount (8mm in this case).

Hope this helps.

[rabbitz]

BTW... with the D26NC, the rebate is the easy part. It's the cut out for the stupid square back and the terminals that are the problem so as to leave enough meat for the screws and gasket. Nice sounding driver but a PITA to mount.