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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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I've recently started to use a router, having previously always done things the hard way, and am achieving potentially good results apart from one thing:
no matter how much I tighten the collet, the cutter always manages to work its way out by a good few mm whilst I'm working, and spoils the job! On checking, it always seems to be tightly held still (I can't move it by hand). As advised by some workers, I've tried leaving a small gap 'behind' the cutter shaft, with no success. What am I doing wrong? I can't tighten it any more without breakng something |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Newcastle
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The shank on the bit must be slightly undersize. This is a problem with cheaper brands of bits. Commonly part of the multi bit sets being sold for the price of one good bit.
Nigel |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: UK
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Hi
It sounds like your collet/bit is of the wrong size, your right about the small gap as the collet pulls tight it will draw the router bit down.If there is not this small gap the bit will "bottom out" and prevent the collet from further tightening. Not being rude is this a kit with bits thrown in, I purchased a kit with 10 router bits the router is fine for my use. But 10 good bits cost a whole lot more than the kit. IMHO the bits are a very weak link. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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I had exactly the same problem as this when I first started becoming interested in building speakers.
At the time I used to borrow the old man's Festool router but I bought my own bits so as to avoid wrecking my dads which he makes a living off since he's a joiner by trade. Anyway I bought the cheapest multipack I could find down at my local B&Q and had the same problem as you. They ended up in a draw abandoned and I bought a Trend box set for around £60, these are middle of the road but good quality, infact I've had them for 4 years and they still give me a perfect cut. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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Quote:
Are you sure its the router bit, and not the depth gauge that's slipping ? |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Lasbordes, 11400
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And whilst talking routers and depth gauges,
Quote:
To accuratly set the depth of a router, don't measure! Take a piece of scrap wood, set your bit right on top, just merely touching the wood. Fix your router, so it won't come up again. Now, if you need to go, say, 6mm deep, simply introduce a drill-bit of the desired diameter (a 6mm drill, that is...) between the stop and the depth gauge, fix the gauge, release the router and Bob's yer Uncle! Works faboulously, flawless every time. And, as so many people said above: Find yerself some proper bits. Use the proper tool for the job, and use a GOOD one. Ask yer old man why he bought a FESTOOL router, not a Black & decker, ryobi or Yashimotu-whatever... Bibster
__________________
Demagogue: One who preaches a doctrine he knows to be untrue to men he knows to be idiots. H.L. Mencken |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
It gets used almost day in day out too. I really doubt most of the other stuff would have lasted that long so its a wise investment if you make a living out of these sorts of things. Its overkill for a casual DIY'er though, I've slowly started to buy my own stuff instead of borrowing and now use a £30 cheapo nobrand effort most of the time because its extremely lightweight and easy to handle, I've also got a 1650w cheapo router for the tougher jobs. These will last years providing the workload is light and due care is taken. Like others have pointed out, the bits are the most important part by far. Put your money in these rather than an expensive industrial router like the Festool's. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Yes, they're cheap bits (one of those sets in a wooden box). I thought I'd start with those, find out which I used most, and buy better examples of those - clearly not a good idea after all. I might try slightly filing the slots in the collet and see if that helps for now. It was a bit disheartening to have nearly finished a pair of baffles, only to have the driver recess (final cut) come right through to the other side
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: dallas
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Isn't that when you turn lemons into lemonade and make a double thickness for your baffle?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: dallas
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As long as you act like that was always the plan, no one will be the wiser.
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