Discussion about gloss paint finish technique

[ShinOBIWAN]

Originally posted by Vikash
I'll put a call in later today. However, don't let that deter you from taking comprehensive pics of the process. Some things will be much clearer in pictures.

PS how much is shipping for that AV15?

V

I'll still do the photo thing as it will probably have some sort of value.

Since its you asking about the AV15, consider the P&P included in the asking the price.

[ShinOBIWAN]

Originally posted by richie00boy
Keep at it Vikash. At least you don't have any joints or edges showing through.

He's wisely chosen a cool way to disguise the joint by putting them on the bevel angle. Its what I do and it works a treat. Tony Gee was the first I saw using it and I just copied him. Simple idea but it works great.

Ant, just wondering how come you chose a palm sander rather than a 1/3 sheet one? For large areas like you had surely a larger sander would have been better?

Have any of you guys tried International MDF primer with automotive paints on top, or are you using the wood hardener and normal automotive primer method?

I find that the palm sander is much lighter and offers a nicer finish than the 1/3 sheet sander I've got. I did buy one of those Bosch Xcel 1/3 sheet sander from B&Q but I'm so accustom to the Makita that I refuse to use it. Its funny how you tend to get use to certain tools even if there's a better/easier way. Another example would be that I nearly always use my £25 cheap as hell router over the big 1650w thing, it feels much better and lighter to me so allows me more control.

I've tried the International MDF primer. Its not very good TBH, at least for what I trying but its better than nothing. I used it last year and it caused a reaction with the automotive finished that I was using at the time making them take weeks to dry properly. I now use the hardener stuff we've talked about and then just automotive cellulose primer, although I've just tried out Upol 2k primer and the results are shown in the photo's. Personally I can't see any difference in the finish quality. So there's nothing in it between 2k and 1k primer for use on MDF.

[richie00boy]

Thanks, I feared the International primer would cause a reaction with topcoats. You've stuck with the Bonda hardener? I've only used the Ronseal one but it's double the price - have you tried it and noticed any difference?

[ShinOBIWAN]

Still happy with, and using, the Bonda stuff so haven't bothered to try the Ronseal one.

[gfinlayson]

I've tried MDF primer and found that being water based it raises the surface 'grain', which takes lots of coats of paint to smooth out. I now use Briwax cellulose sanding sealer. A generous coat on MDF allowed to dry for 15 minutes and then rubbed down with 0000 steel wool makes an excellent base for spray painting.

[Vikash]

Had a word with Paul from Paints4u who was extremely helpful. My sanity is at risk, but I'm going back to sanding...

Shin, I'll take the AV15 of you then Just need to wait for pay day.

[richie00boy]

It will be worth it in the end. I have been like that on a couple of occasions with (not just audio) projects...

What tool are you using to sand with? Treat yourself to a nice sander to ease the pain?

[ShinOBIWAN]

Originally posted by Vikash
Shin, I'll take the AV15 of you then Just need to wait for pay day.

OK Vikash,

I'll put it to one side then. Email me when your ready and we'll sort out the fineries.

[Vikash]

Some more hand sanding today (straight to 1200 grit), and some more frustration at rubbing too much off in some places so I decided to just try rubbing it out with automotive rubbing compound and a 12v car polisher to get an idea of what it might look like eventually.



Boy am I glad I did this. It's the incentive I needed to carry on with it.

[ShinOBIWAN]

That looks excellent Vikash, glad you found something that worked for you.