hi, I don't even know where to search as I know it is a little too specific on what to search. Anyhow I got all these speakers at a good price so I will be assembling a pair of cabinets for them however I need help designing some passive crossovers. These are the drivers that will be going in:
Aurum Cantus G2
Seas Excel W-11-001?
Dayton RS180-4
I plan on using passive crossover, however not sure where to cross each drivers. Also I know that some drivers need more of a specific frequency cut, as well as a certain order for the slope, and the W11 might even need a notch filter.
What frequencies do you guys recommend these to be crossovers at, what orders, and notch required?
Or can madisound tell me what to use and make it for me?
Aurum Cantus G2
Seas Excel W-11-001?
Dayton RS180-4
I plan on using passive crossover, however not sure where to cross each drivers. Also I know that some drivers need more of a specific frequency cut, as well as a certain order for the slope, and the W11 might even need a notch filter.
What frequencies do you guys recommend these to be crossovers at, what orders, and notch required?
Or can madisound tell me what to use and make it for me?
Well I guess If you don't have test and measurement equipment and crossover design software then I think your best bet would be Madisound.They may have these drivers in their data base and can give you simulated computer model of a design.Check with them a see what they can do.
You have some good quality drivers so a properly designed XO is worth investing in.
You have some good quality drivers so a properly designed XO is worth investing in.
hmm thanks, I know that home audio is quite a different animal compared to car. like I have a pair of AC G2, Seas Lotus (car version of the excels) RM110, and RW165. In the car, there are peaks where I have to underlap all the drivers. The RW165 is bandpassed at 80hz-200hz 2nd order on both sides, and the RM110 picks up from 250hz-2.2khz, then the G2s pick up from 2.8khz and up. This has to be done because I have peaks in my car around those underlapped region. However I'm reading more and more into crossover designs, wow is it even way more precise. It comes down to cone material, port design, and every little detail can affect the crossover properties.
car audio crossover...
Yes, and even w/measuring... it'll change with windows open ..or closed...and by how much!,,.no-one knows. Hmmm...How fast are you driving? Personal opinion is get an active (not the cheapest) crossover for sub (below 100 hz.roughly speaking) then find whatever works (passive WILL work) w/GOOD speakers for the rest. Create either closed (preferable) or vented boxes that fit interior of vehicle... possibly an (almost fullrange) with dedicated amp. It'll work probably longer than the car can stay alive. I've had good luck taking an old radioshack speaker pair optimus something or other...w/steel case (real small) and old. Using it for bulk of sound,(one under each seat facing forward to where my feet hear the best!... then a sub, in back behind seat of this old toyota truck. (built enclosure to fit vehicle) A (very tight) fit. It works! I found 'surplus' car amps to power the 'sub', active cross for sub...and passive for above 110. (a 50watt stereo amp) . Also, I've realized it'll never be perfect... so enjoy simplicity.
Yes, and even w/measuring... it'll change with windows open ..or closed...and by how much!,,.no-one knows. Hmmm...How fast are you driving? Personal opinion is get an active (not the cheapest) crossover for sub (below 100 hz.roughly speaking) then find whatever works (passive WILL work) w/GOOD speakers for the rest. Create either closed (preferable) or vented boxes that fit interior of vehicle... possibly an (almost fullrange) with dedicated amp. It'll work probably longer than the car can stay alive. I've had good luck taking an old radioshack speaker pair optimus something or other...w/steel case (real small) and old. Using it for bulk of sound,(one under each seat facing forward to where my feet hear the best!... then a sub, in back behind seat of this old toyota truck. (built enclosure to fit vehicle) A (very tight) fit. It works! I found 'surplus' car amps to power the 'sub', active cross for sub...and passive for above 110. (a 50watt stereo amp) . Also, I've realized it'll never be perfect... so enjoy simplicity.
haha, yeah its a hell of a process, I have a processor that has 8 active channels, each with adjustable crossovers 1/3 octave up to a 5th order adjustable slope, each channel with its own individual 30 band eq or 10 band parametric eq, time alignment for each speaker. Its an Alpine PXA-h700 pretty powerful unit. Along with 7 channels, leaving the sub to be a mono channel. ?Yeah many many factors in there. However being that home audio is the new territory for me, everything seems very new and is a little overwhelming. I have always heard that a speaker is greatly effected by the passive crossover designed for it, but I didn't know there are so many factors involved. I would love to 3 way active for home as well, however it would be too expensive for me, and all these amps laying around. Not to mention that I would def want a tube pre-amp, have my eyes on a conrad johnson, but its rather pricey. haha. So much to think about.
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