EPOS ES22 construction

Epos 22's

Hi Pete

Did a search on the site before i posted my query and it came up blank. It looks like we are the only 2 people that own a pair of 22's. I don't suppose you have managed to get inside the cabinets yet? I have contacted Epos direct but with them being pre Creek i'm pretty sure they will not be much help, have had no reply yet but it is the holiday season so they might all be lying on a beach somewhere!
Is there any chance of keeping me posted on any developments and i will do likewise!
Good luck in your quest to enter the Epos

ciao
 
Bet you don't trust your Grandmother either!!

Think you might be jumping to the wrong conlusion, I have in my downstairs hall a pair of Epos es22's, one of which has a blown tweeter, now two thirds of the front baffle is covered with a plastic cover, all i want to know is what is below it, bolt heads would be nice so i could dismantle both, buy a new pair of similar spec tweeters, install them, plug the speakers into my system, sit in my favourite comfy chair and listen to the bloody things. I appologise for my abruptness but i had a nightmare 9 hour round trip to collect them ( purchased off ebay) on one of the hottest days in history only to get home and find one of the tweeters blown. Epos have since been taken over by Creek and only make three models, none of which are the es22, to cap it all off i believe they must be on their annual leave as i have received no reply to my emails.
Another thing while i'm rambling on further research has revealed a lot of Epos speakers used long bolts clamping the front baffle to the rear baffle but its all irrelevent, all i need is the key to open the box so i can listen to my new speakers :bawling:

Bit rum throwing about the accusations without at least probing a bit deeper, you never know i could be the type of person who takes offence easily :att'n:
 
I think from memory the front fascia is glued onto the front baffle, concealing the bolts that hold the drivers in.... but it's been 6 years since I looked at a pair so the memory could be a little faulty. Great sounding speakers though, but don't like high volume levels!

:)
 
lawriebuck said:
I think from memory the front fascia is glued onto the front baffle, concealing the bolts that hold the drivers in.... but it's been 6 years since I looked at a pair so the memory could be a little faulty. Great sounding speakers though, but don't like high volume levels!

:)


Your memory is correct - the plastic front needs to be carefuly pulled - there is some sticky stuff holding it. It is better to replace the tweeters with the same model - may be Epos Acoustics could help with this - I know they had some spares for the old speakers.

About high volume levels - ES22 and ES30 need a very good amplifier capable of controlling the bass driver as there is very little acoustical damping and with most amplifiers these speakers will have problems on loud passages. I've heard ES22 producing very high levels with nice clarity, driven by Naim or senior Creek amps using biamping.

x-pro
 
RE Epos 22's

Thanx lads for the positive replies, its nice to have a bit of peace of mind before attacking the beasts with a hammer and chisel :devilr:
With regards to amplification the 22's were purchased solely to be married to the Gain clones i am building, after long deliberation and trawling through everything i could find online they appeared to have the spec and qualities to make a perfect partnership, of course proof will only be in the pudding so fingers crossed.

Thanx again chaps!!!!
 
Hope i didnt offend any sensitive minds, but since this is a DIY loudspeakerforum, it easy to jump to conclusions.


Replacing the tweeter - To capture the original sound a replacement tweeter from EPOS is a must.

Enter the boxes - The back and front wall are glued, so this is problematic. A friend of mine tried something similar and it didnt turn out well! Ask EPOS for help or send the boxes to them for replacement and tweeter change. Regarding change of capacitor - I think the capacistors are attached to the wire attach-panel on the back. Only this part may be removed for this purpose.
 
Epos es22 gaining access

I have a pair of es22s that were delivered with the plastic facia unattached.
There was the access to the screws for all the speakers.
I definately had a look inside before I closed them up.
That facia is attached with double sided tape.
I think you would destroy the covering if you removed it.
Beneath the facia is black painted MDF that looks nice, just a little rougher than the covering.
Hope that helps
-e
 
Revisorn, I don't mean to offend, but I am left wondering if you are actually talking about the ES22, the panels are neither glued not do they have a removable "wire attach-panel" on the back. The terminal posts go straight through the cabinet!

Pixelninny, thanks for the reply. Yes it would seem that removing the plastic facia would cause damage to it and would only be attempted for repair as opposed to "tinkering". Shame as I do like to tinker :D
 
Your memory is correct - the plastic front needs to be carefuly pulled - there is some sticky stuff holding it. It is better to replace the tweeters with the same model - may be Epos Acoustics could help with this - I know they had some spares for the old speakers.

About high volume levels - ES22 and ES30 need a very good amplifier capable of controlling the bass driver as there is very little acoustical damping and with most amplifiers these speakers will have problems on loud passages. I've heard ES22 producing very high levels with nice clarity, driven by Naim or senior Creek amps using biamping.

x-pro


Totally agree! I use with Naim and some other very powerful amplifiers I have and they'll go very loud. May not be ideal for them as they are not exactly PA speakers by any means but they'll reproduce loud rock music at realistic levels in domestic environments and make a very good representation of how it sounds live. They need a surprising amount of space as well though for what is a relatively small speaker. Great speakers though love them. The bass they can produce from again the relatively small drivers is really surprising, shocking even, but it is all about giving them plenty of good power and positioning well.

Anyway, I came here as I wanted to get inside and was kindly directed here but it does seem to be a task that is very difficult. The 11s or 12s were simple to come apart aside from the driver being moulded to the front plate but these things don't seem to have anyway to easily access. It almost looks like a sealed in factory and forget design it seems. I honestly cant see how that front facia plate can be removed without getting near minor damage or wrecking the things :( As for that sticky black stuff, would it be compromised if the seal was broken and what is it? Don't know whether to risk it as they are working fine, just want to make a slight mod that's all. Would be good to know how to get inside for future servicing though maybe as well.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.





 
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Totally agree! I use with Naim and some other very powerful amplifiers I have and they'll go very loud. May not be ideal for them as they are not exactly PA speakers by any means but they'll reproduce loud rock music at realistic levels in domestic environments and make a very good representation of how it sounds live. They need a surprising amount of space as well though for what is a relatively small speaker. Great speakers though love them. The bass they can produce from again the relatively small drivers is really surprising, shocking even, but it is all about giving them plenty of good power and positioning well.

Anyway, I came here as I wanted to get inside and was kindly directed here but it does seem to be a task that is very difficult. The 11s or 12s were simple to come apart aside from the driver being moulded to the front plate but these things don't seem to have anyway to easily access. It almost looks like a sealed in factory and forget design it seems. I honestly cant see how that front facia plate can be removed without getting near minor damage or wrecking the things :( As for that sticky black stuff, would it be compromised if the seal was broken and what is it? Don't know whether to risk it as they are working fine, just want to make a slight mod that's all. Would be good to know how to get inside for future servicing though maybe as well.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.





I have a seen pair with the front facia permanently removed because they look better without (personal opinion of the owner). All drive units can then be simply removed if needed. No damage done to facia panels on removal and they could easily be reinstated. They now belong to a friend locally. This is an old post but I will happily get pictures if anyone is still interested.