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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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I'm building Zaph's Waveguide TMM, and cut the first pieces of wood today
.The crossover I've chosen is the perfectionist crossover, but I don't understand how to connect the actual components, probably due to my near complete ignorance of all things electrical . The schematic shows a point labelled "IN" - is that the positive or negative connection from the amp? The "+" after the tweeter suggests to me that it's the negative connection. What do the earth connections on the schematic represent? The opposite connection to "IN" from the amp?Finally I have some general crossover questions: 1) If an inductor's DCR does not match that specified in the schematic, should a resistor be added in the circuit after the inductor to bring the DCR up to that specified? 2) Are non-inductive wire-wound ceramic resistors suitable for crossovers? Thanks for any advice you might give |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bath, UK
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IN is the + (red) connection from the amplifier and all the earths connect together to the – (black) from the amplifier. The tweeter is in reverse phase so its + terminal is connected to earth. The woofer is normal phase so – connects to earth.
Adding a small resistor to an inductor is okay, but you’d be better off buying an inductor with the correct resistance (or close, say within 30%). Besides, the thicker gauge wire of a more expensive inductor would be wasted if you add a resistor in series, so save your money! Non-inductive resistors are ideal for crossover work. Good luck with your project! Nice one, David. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Thanks David, that answered all my questions in one
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bellevue, WA
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Quote:
Dan |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: nsw
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Adding the extra series resistance will help to ensure that your results are consistent with Zaph's. Naturally this is a good thing, however, it might be true that the lower DCR will sound better as this is often the case where the circuit location permits it.
Ideally I feel, it would be best if Zaph tweaked the crossover to suit your low DCR inductor. Practically speaking, I think you should try both and see which one you prefer. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Quote:
I've routed a 1/2" wide channel between the two panels of one of the legs on each enclosure using an R1/4" cove bit for passing the wires through. After gluing everything together, I realised that this channel will be too small to take 6x decent gauge wires and I should have routed at least two channels .As a workaround, would it be OK to use 4x wires for the drivers all stuffed up this channel (3 for the "+" inputs, 1 for the "-" ground), or is it best if each driver has its own "-" wire? Will having so many wires crammed into such a small channel cause interference issues? |
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#7 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: nsw
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Quote:
Quote:
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: nsw
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I think I understood you but I'll put it another way
![]() Short answer: no. There will be a small amount of mutual inductance and a small amount of capacitance between the cables. However, considering the frequencies involved, typical crossover impedances, and the lengths you mentioned, I would be very surprised if they caused any problems for your speaker. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Thanks Indm. What gauge wire would you suggest for the driver wires? 6x 1.7mm diameter core/3mm diameter jacket wires will fit up the channel, although they seem a bit thin. Would perhaps 4x heavier core wire be better? Single core or multi strand?
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