Hey thanx and it does help...
I just signed up over at avforums erlier today and hope to get alot help from 'em...
My Tv is HITACHI UltrscanHD 43"
and the reciever is a SONY STR-DE845
neither are High Dollar...
I do have a old AMD 700/800 thunderbird
with a 64m video card...
I might try it out with it to get my feet wet...
then upgrade from there
thanx again chris
I just signed up over at avforums erlier today and hope to get alot help from 'em...
My Tv is HITACHI UltrscanHD 43"
and the reciever is a SONY STR-DE845
neither are High Dollar...
I do have a old AMD 700/800 thunderbird
with a 64m video card...
I might try it out with it to get my feet wet...
then upgrade from there
thanx again chris
Ok I have a few more Quaetions...
I am about to build a SUB
my speaker is a MA audio DVC,6ohm, 600w/800w, car audio sub...
my amp is the one from the buyout, 150w plate amp from madisound...
I dont know how to determin the size of the box...?
what software do you recomend ?
what does curves cabnet sides change ?
how cab=n you find out if a cube vr rectangle is better, ect...?
anyone ever used, the rubber spray/Dynamat/ or knock offs of dynamat for speaker cabnets ?
chris
~~~~~edit~~~~
anyone ever heard of Audio lab of GA.
they sell vifa, and all sorts of other stuff slightly cheaper than madisound but dont have much in stock
I am about to build a SUB
my speaker is a MA audio DVC,6ohm, 600w/800w, car audio sub...
my amp is the one from the buyout, 150w plate amp from madisound...
I dont know how to determin the size of the box...?
what software do you recomend ?
what does curves cabnet sides change ?
how cab=n you find out if a cube vr rectangle is better, ect...?
anyone ever used, the rubber spray/Dynamat/ or knock offs of dynamat for speaker cabnets ?
chris
~~~~~edit~~~~
anyone ever heard of Audio lab of GA.
they sell vifa, and all sorts of other stuff slightly cheaper than madisound but dont have much in stock
For lots of good info on subs head to www.diysubwoofers.org a tonne of info there, can't help you much with programs, I like to do most of the work myself...because i'm stubborn like that.
What are you planning to use the sub for? Quite a few people swear by sono-subs. I've never heard one myself, but i'm going to build one next month to see what all the fuss is about, they're very simple from a construction standpoint, and I think the design is kind of a knock off of SVS subwoofers, I think they were among the first to do the cylinder thing.... Take a look at http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18218 on the diy forum there, they have many examples of sono-subs. I've always like the look of them aswell.
Tristan
What are you planning to use the sub for? Quite a few people swear by sono-subs. I've never heard one myself, but i'm going to build one next month to see what all the fuss is about, they're very simple from a construction standpoint, and I think the design is kind of a knock off of SVS subwoofers, I think they were among the first to do the cylinder thing.... Take a look at http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18218 on the diy forum there, they have many examples of sono-subs. I've always like the look of them aswell.
Tristan
yeah, I have been reaiding over there...
the SONO tube is way to big for me...
I am thinking, End Table doubled as sub enclosure...
but I don't have the sub's Spec. sheet...
Just the Model No. "MA 10D6" Competition, Double stack magnets.
And I dont know what size/port/sealed/witch way to fire it either...Down/Forward...
I need alot of help...
the SONO tube is way to big for me...
I am thinking, End Table doubled as sub enclosure...
but I don't have the sub's Spec. sheet...
Just the Model No. "MA 10D6" Competition, Double stack magnets.
And I dont know what size/port/sealed/witch way to fire it either...Down/Forward...
I need alot of help...
I looked for info on that MA-audio driver and couldn't find anything.... Saying that, just from general experience, and what i've heard car audio drivers aren't the best for the home environment, especially if you're using it for movies of which alot of newer tracks have lots of below 20hz information, most car audio drivers won't touch that... You may want to check out a different driver.
As for whether to go sealed or ported, that depends on the driver some will work better sealed, and vice-versa. You figure that out by doing this simple equation, FS/QES, if the number is below 50 go sealed, if it's between 50-100 it can do either, and if it's 100+ then ported is the way to go. Qts is also important, .3-.4 will typically work best in a vented enclosure, while anything over .4 will work best sealed. For example, say you do the above eqaution and get 65, so it will work with either, check the qts if it's .35 then go ported, .45 go sealed etc... The FS and Q values will be listed with the driver's specs. That will also determine the size of the enclosure. I've never really been able to tell the difference between down/front firing subs so I wouldn't worry about that too much, others may have a different opinion though. You'll definately need the specs for that driver if you want to use it, maybe try emailing them directly? If this is your first project, you may want to look for a driver that's good in a sealed enclosure, as they are typically easier to plan and build. Better for music too IMHO.
Tristan
As for whether to go sealed or ported, that depends on the driver some will work better sealed, and vice-versa. You figure that out by doing this simple equation, FS/QES, if the number is below 50 go sealed, if it's between 50-100 it can do either, and if it's 100+ then ported is the way to go. Qts is also important, .3-.4 will typically work best in a vented enclosure, while anything over .4 will work best sealed. For example, say you do the above eqaution and get 65, so it will work with either, check the qts if it's .35 then go ported, .45 go sealed etc... The FS and Q values will be listed with the driver's specs. That will also determine the size of the enclosure. I've never really been able to tell the difference between down/front firing subs so I wouldn't worry about that too much, others may have a different opinion though. You'll definately need the specs for that driver if you want to use it, maybe try emailing them directly? If this is your first project, you may want to look for a driver that's good in a sealed enclosure, as they are typically easier to plan and build. Better for music too IMHO.
Tristan
I got the spec's...
check it out and make sure it looks correct...
if so, then what do you recomend...
spec are a s follows:
Ma Audio Sub Ma10d6 spec's
FO: 29.58
QMS: 3.48
Qes: 0.47
Qts: 0.41
Vas(L): 43.97
Revc(OHm): 2.7
Spl@ 1wat/1Meter(db): 85.66
Xmax Linear PK-Pk(mm): 20
Levc @ 1k Hz(mh): 1.4
Enclosure Volumes - Sealed:
Sealed(cu.ft.): 0.5
Fill Required (%): No
3db Down point(-3db hz): 51
Maximum Sealed(cu.ft.): .75
Fill Required (%): No
3db Down point(-3db hz): 50
ENCLOSURE VOLUMES - Ported:
Vented (Cu. Ft): 2
Vented to (Hz): 34
3dB down point (-3dB Hz): 29
Port Diameter ("): 3
Port Length ("): 15.5
Number of Ports: 2
All specifications are subject to change without written prior notice.
Each recommended enclosure volume is calculated using optimum
standards. You may alter these standards accordingly to suit your needs
If I do go ported is it a total length of 15.5 for the ports...
in other words (2) 2" x 7.75" ports/(2) 2"x15.5" ports
check it out and make sure it looks correct...
if so, then what do you recomend...
spec are a s follows:
Ma Audio Sub Ma10d6 spec's
FO: 29.58
QMS: 3.48
Qes: 0.47
Qts: 0.41
Vas(L): 43.97
Revc(OHm): 2.7
Spl@ 1wat/1Meter(db): 85.66
Xmax Linear PK-Pk(mm): 20
Levc @ 1k Hz(mh): 1.4
Enclosure Volumes - Sealed:
Sealed(cu.ft.): 0.5
Fill Required (%): No
3db Down point(-3db hz): 51
Maximum Sealed(cu.ft.): .75
Fill Required (%): No
3db Down point(-3db hz): 50
ENCLOSURE VOLUMES - Ported:
Vented (Cu. Ft): 2
Vented to (Hz): 34
3dB down point (-3dB Hz): 29
Port Diameter ("): 3
Port Length ("): 15.5
Number of Ports: 2
All specifications are subject to change without written prior notice.
Each recommended enclosure volume is calculated using optimum
standards. You may alter these standards accordingly to suit your needs
If I do go ported is it a total length of 15.5 for the ports...
in other words (2) 2" x 7.75" ports/(2) 2"x15.5" ports
The way I read the data, your ports should EACH be 15 inches long.
Generally, car subs aren't the most musical devices you can find, as they got their focus on making it withstand the harch environment of the car (extreme temperatures, possibly sunlight, raindrops...).
However, since you already got the components I'd give it a try. The enclosure shouldn't be that expensive to make.
If you use ports, just don't put the end of ports neer a wall. They should have some space around them.
Also, you will want to use fairly thick MDF, and some simple bracing, to keep the walls more silent.
Ported designs typically have a more boomy sound (less dry and precise), but may go lower (refer to the -3db point) in apparent frequency response.
Jennice
Generally, car subs aren't the most musical devices you can find, as they got their focus on making it withstand the harch environment of the car (extreme temperatures, possibly sunlight, raindrops...).
However, since you already got the components I'd give it a try. The enclosure shouldn't be that expensive to make.
If you use ports, just don't put the end of ports neer a wall. They should have some space around them.
Also, you will want to use fairly thick MDF, and some simple bracing, to keep the walls more silent.
Ported designs typically have a more boomy sound (less dry and precise), but may go lower (refer to the -3db point) in apparent frequency response.
Jennice
thanx so much everyone, I am learning alot...
and i hope i am noy anoying you to bad...
I like the sono tube Idea but on a smaller scale...
(end table size) would be great...24" wide, 28"- 30" tall or so
would that be to small ?
I have a few more question, please bare with me...
I did a search but didnt realy find anything...
I am not realy wanting to have the best/thickest wires...
Just some decent wires...(Audio only)
And I would like to make some of my own for two reasons.
1- make shorter wire to go from one componet to another, to elimenate excess wire...
2-to have matched wires, (all the same quality & size)...I have alot of 3ft., 6ft., ect RCA cables
I aint going to spend a week Braiding some little bitty wires(not for me, sorry)
I just want to Clean up my rack and hopefully correct any wrongs at the same time...
also what is the best way to route the wires, (power wires seperate from audio/video ect...)
a few more questions...
-a good guage for speaker wires ?
-Two sets of wire for a larger guage=good or bad ?
-Does the Length need to be the same(L&R) ?
-Does the speaker/rca wires need any extra sheilding ?
thanx again, for my helping a newbie out...
chris
can you point me in the correct direction...
and i hope i am noy anoying you to bad...
I like the sono tube Idea but on a smaller scale...
(end table size) would be great...24" wide, 28"- 30" tall or so
would that be to small ?
I have a few more question, please bare with me...
I did a search but didnt realy find anything...
I am not realy wanting to have the best/thickest wires...
Just some decent wires...(Audio only)
And I would like to make some of my own for two reasons.
1- make shorter wire to go from one componet to another, to elimenate excess wire...
2-to have matched wires, (all the same quality & size)...I have alot of 3ft., 6ft., ect RCA cables
I aint going to spend a week Braiding some little bitty wires(not for me, sorry)
I just want to Clean up my rack and hopefully correct any wrongs at the same time...
also what is the best way to route the wires, (power wires seperate from audio/video ect...)
a few more questions...
-a good guage for speaker wires ?
-Two sets of wire for a larger guage=good or bad ?
-Does the Length need to be the same(L&R) ?
-Does the speaker/rca wires need any extra sheilding ?
thanx again, for my helping a newbie out...
chris
can you point me in the correct direction...
Attachments
Yousuredo said:
I haven't built any myself, but as I understand, sono-tube subs are length-dependent. The length of the sono-yube determins the frequency range they work in.
Check out www.passdiy.com , click "speakers" on the left, and scroll down to find the article "The legend of El Pipe-O". It contains some details on the working concept, too.
Judging by the article, this could well be the mother of all pipe-subs, but then again Mr. Pass usually seems bored from doing things the ordinary way.
Jennice
theyre right, i can be CRANKING my sub(and it has about 3 litres of linear displacement) and the walls stay rigid! no flex at ALL from them! theyre also light weight, can be built in many dimensions that fit easily in corners/behind sofas. Not to mention theyre easy to build, just use a circle guide and a router and some wood glue, very easy to make.
even finishing them is easy, just spray the tube black(doent need to be perfect, exept on the end caps) then cover the tube portion with a stretch black tube of fabric.
even finishing them is easy, just spray the tube black(doent need to be perfect, exept on the end caps) then cover the tube portion with a stretch black tube of fabric.
SOOOoo obvious. DOH! well I found out why my TV will not play progressive...
Did a Google and ran across a site that had a "HOW to FIX" section for my TV...
First thing I did was Re-Calibrate it/adjust the convergence...
All I can say Is wow...
it preforms better now than it ever did...
I love the magic blue button...
If you havn't had it done, I strongly recomend it...(I was about to buy another TV for $2500 and now i think i am going to hold off for another year or two)
Second, I saw the articale about progressive scanning...
seems Hitachi finaly owned up to it being a bad chip, and "IF" it is still under warrenty, you can call an Authorized Hitachi service man and have it fixed....For Free !
well, needless to say my tv isn't under warenty...
it does have the part # listed, and said it didnt take long to do...but recomended letting a pro do it...(wonder what it would cost to have it done?)
I am thinkin about replacing my tv's factory 3" speakers for something better
any recomendation to look for in a speaker to replace it with (fullrange, Ohms, watts, ect)
prabobly going to get something from the BuyOut section, for about $10 a speaker...or so
Did a Google and ran across a site that had a "HOW to FIX" section for my TV...
First thing I did was Re-Calibrate it/adjust the convergence...
All I can say Is wow...
it preforms better now than it ever did...
I love the magic blue button...
If you havn't had it done, I strongly recomend it...(I was about to buy another TV for $2500 and now i think i am going to hold off for another year or two)
Second, I saw the articale about progressive scanning...
seems Hitachi finaly owned up to it being a bad chip, and "IF" it is still under warrenty, you can call an Authorized Hitachi service man and have it fixed....For Free !
well, needless to say my tv isn't under warenty...
it does have the part # listed, and said it didnt take long to do...but recomended letting a pro do it...(wonder what it would cost to have it done?)
I am thinkin about replacing my tv's factory 3" speakers for something better
any recomendation to look for in a speaker to replace it with (fullrange, Ohms, watts, ect)
prabobly going to get something from the BuyOut section, for about $10 a speaker...or so
I ordered 4 dayton Rs180 from PE, and they Just arived !
waiting for some other specials, to oreder the rest of the parts...
I am concerned though...
the more I read, the more I am confused by diferent sites...
someone give me some insite please....
I listen to All type of Rock "ONLY"...(classic, Hard, metal, alternative, ect.)
And those types of music arent usally recorded very well...
And Movies...
What material sound better for this type of music ? (paper, metal, titanium, neo, poly, ect...)
I am going with either a MTM/ MTMW design
waiting for some other specials, to oreder the rest of the parts...
I am concerned though...
the more I read, the more I am confused by diferent sites...
someone give me some insite please....
I listen to All type of Rock "ONLY"...(classic, Hard, metal, alternative, ect.)
And those types of music arent usally recorded very well...
And Movies...
What material sound better for this type of music ? (paper, metal, titanium, neo, poly, ect...)
I am going with either a MTM/ MTMW design
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.