Same price, same brand, proven track record.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=276-152
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=276-152
They're going in some bookshelf speakers with a 6.5 woofer.
Someone gave me the speakers with drivers completely shot out. I just bought some cheap drivers from Parts Express but the tweeters aren't performing as well as woofers(which I thought were amazing for $10.00) so I thought I'd upgrade a bit.
If I were getting a better x-over too, I would just go with some high-end drivers but the cabinets don't really rate that.
The original tweeter(cone) was 6 ohms so I'm trying to stay there.
I don't even know where exactly the x-over is set on these.
They sound pretty good with my DIY LM3886 amp though.
RDV
Someone gave me the speakers with drivers completely shot out. I just bought some cheap drivers from Parts Express but the tweeters aren't performing as well as woofers(which I thought were amazing for $10.00) so I thought I'd upgrade a bit.
If I were getting a better x-over too, I would just go with some high-end drivers but the cabinets don't really rate that.
The original tweeter(cone) was 6 ohms so I'm trying to stay there.
I don't even know where exactly the x-over is set on these.
They sound pretty good with my DIY LM3886 amp though.
RDV
RDV , it is best to choose a tweeter which has its Fundamental Resonance at least 1 octave below the crossover frequency you wish to use . For use from 1600 , use a tweeter with 800Hz or lower Fs . There are plenty of such to choose from . Even with 1 octave below you will need to use a crossover with a slope greater than 6dB/octave , or you will get distortion - look at the resonance on the Audax data sheets in those links - how long it extends for . If you want to use a single capacitor , 6dB slope , then use a tweeter which has Ferro-fluid to admp its Fs . best wishes , Alan .
hi lve used the audax tweets before and they didnt stack up too badly
in my wiev you would be better off with the .75 in audaxes than the miniature pioneers
2200Hz is the -3db point. It will play to Fs if you push down the top end and use a steep slope at the bottom.
As you be a newbie that is probably pretty cryptic.
To put it simply, the only way you're going to be able to do a drop in replacement without modding the crossover is to find a tweeter with the same parameters as the unit your replacing. That is more involved than matching impedance.
As you be a newbie that is probably pretty cryptic.
To put it simply, the only way you're going to be able to do a drop in replacement without modding the crossover is to find a tweeter with the same parameters as the unit your replacing. That is more involved than matching impedance.
As near as I can tell, the crossover in these old speakers is only on the tweeters as there is only one cap/inductor/cap network. I think they just left the woofer to it's own devices.
This is looking like I need a crossover too.
I haven't heard really good things about the prefab ones at PE.
Any suggestions for a prefab that might work well or component values for one for me to make?
RDV
This is looking like I need a crossover too.
I haven't heard really good things about the prefab ones at PE.
Any suggestions for a prefab that might work well or component values for one for me to make?
RDV
I was referring to the 1"
There are suppliers that do crossover design but only for the drivers that they sell.
Generally speaking, generic crossovers for home audio speakers are not good.
With a single cap and inductor (2nd order XO) on the tweeter only it's likely the XO point is quite high. Without measurement equipment it's going to be trial and error.
Another option would be to try a piezo tweeter.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/piezo.pdf
Your original post said there's a hole between 1600 and 3k. How do you know?
Do you know what the component values are on the exisiting crossover?
There are suppliers that do crossover design but only for the drivers that they sell.
Generally speaking, generic crossovers for home audio speakers are not good.
With a single cap and inductor (2nd order XO) on the tweeter only it's likely the XO point is quite high. Without measurement equipment it's going to be trial and error.
Another option would be to try a piezo tweeter.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/piezo.pdf
Your original post said there's a hole between 1600 and 3k. How do you know?
Do you know what the component values are on the exisiting crossover?
I just know what I'm hearing is a distinct lack of high-mid. I was guessing the range because of the drivers' ratings vs what I'm hearing. I just thought a better tweeter would help since the Pioneer that's there is so small. I know how the newbies on DIYstompboxes.com feel now. DUMB.
I can't measure the inductor on the existing x-over so there's really no way to know. It may even be a 1st order considering these are Sanyo cabinets from one of those all-in-one stereos from the early nineties. They're made from 5/8" MDF though which isn't that bad. They don't sound awful, just lacking presence.
RDV
I can't measure the inductor on the existing x-over so there's really no way to know. It may even be a 1st order considering these are Sanyo cabinets from one of those all-in-one stereos from the early nineties. They're made from 5/8" MDF though which isn't that bad. They don't sound awful, just lacking presence.
RDV
You don't have to feel dumb. Everyone here was clueless at some point in their lives.
A cap and inductor on the tweeter is a 2nd order.
If there is substantial overlap between the woofer and tweeter there may be cancellation which would also cause a perceived lack of response in the crossover region.
High crossover points in 2 way systems can also mean the mid-woofer is operating beyond it's best region resulting in lack of midrange detail.
A cap and inductor on the tweeter is a 2nd order.
If there is substantial overlap between the woofer and tweeter there may be cancellation which would also cause a perceived lack of response in the crossover region.
High crossover points in 2 way systems can also mean the mid-woofer is operating beyond it's best region resulting in lack of midrange detail.
I believe it's crossed at somewhere around 2500hz because the caps are 6.8µF & 2.2µF if the I is a 2µH. If that's the case a decent tweeter would help somewhat though the 6.5" is probably part of the problem.
This my 1st rodeo with DIY speaks and by the time I'm finished they'll either sound great or be garbage.
RDV
This my 1st rodeo with DIY speaks and by the time I'm finished they'll either sound great or be garbage.
RDV
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