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Old 16th December 2002, 12:24 PM   #31
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Default Wall paper glue is "paste"

it's a starch -- like wheat paste but with chemicals in it to prevent mold.
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Old 18th December 2002, 05:38 PM   #32
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I know contact adhesive in the UK as "evo-stick" resin W - can put together after 15-20 mins.

If you're veneering onto mdf end grain (using wood glue / pva) would it be wise to seal the mdf first with 2 coats of wood glue rolled on and allowed to dry ?

This way it won't absorb the glue as quick on veneering. Possibly stop shrinkage?

Rob


btw - I reckon veneering is way better than sanding and spraying mdf (make that easier )
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Old 18th December 2002, 05:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
I know contact adhesive in the UK as "evo-stick" resin W
Nope, that is ordinary woodworking glue, sorry.

You can only get the evostick rubber based contact adhesive in the UK, it is usually sold in 250ml or 500ml red tins, and is not really suitable for veneering, (but great for laminates).

You can use resin w for veneering, but you need to put a very thin coat on each surface, let it dry, and then use a hot iron to make the join.
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Old 18th December 2002, 06:43 PM   #34
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Sorry Pinkmouse,

You're right! I've just looked at the wood glue sitting next to me and thats resin w! - The stuff I was meant to be talking about comes in a green tin, made by evo stick, black lid. Smells very strong. Definitely rubber based...


On my other question - if I was to use the iron method, would I still be best off sealing the mdf first?


A very fuzzy memoried Rob
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Old 18th December 2002, 08:40 PM   #35
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For people in the US, Tapeease is a good source of veneer and supplies. There are some informative tips on their web page as well. One of the best is to forget using a J roller. Rather, use a scrap of hardwood and scrape the veneer with the edge. That applies much more pressure than a roller because of the relatively sharp edge. For those who can't get the hang of the glue thing, they sell veneer with hot-melt glue pre-applied. You just iron it on and scrape it while it's still hot to make sure all the bubbles are out. If a spot doesn't stick, heat it up again. Doesn't get much easier than that.
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Old 18th December 2002, 09:05 PM   #36
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Quote:
On my other question - if I was to use the iron method, would I still be best off sealing the mdf first?
No the layer of PVA should be fine, but make sure everything is all sanded perfectly smooth, or the layers of your mdf will telegraph through the veneer!

You will also have to run the grain of the veneer vertically, so it will bend around the curves, if you try and run it horizontally, it will split.

Hmm green tin, new one on me!
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Old 18th December 2002, 09:19 PM   #37
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I'll try and take a pic of the can (I've seen the red ones in b&q's etc, but at work we use green cans - maybe its standard glue not impact?)

I'm not really an expert on glues , and I'm probably just digging myself deeper and deeper.....

Rob

-spent 31/2 hours with a belt sander getting my cabs smooth , just got to get the courage up to slap the veneer on! -
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Old 18th December 2002, 11:46 PM   #38
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For those speakers I just used normal woodglue (PVAC) and an iron and had no problems at all.

Click the image to open in full size.

I ironed with a sheet of paper in between the iron and veneer and around the edges. Never had any problems with splitting the wood. You just have to bend a little bit over the edge.

Always work from center to side and with bubble leen on the iron (for me 70kg) and voila gone is the bubble.

Remember that feneer will crimp so take a larger piece then the box

Ralph
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Old 21st December 2002, 06:27 PM   #39
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""Hmm green tin, new one on me!""



Here's the stuff I'm talking about.....


I'll be taking my iron to work on monday to do a test piece...



Rob
Attached Images
File Type: jpg evostick.jpg (7.5 KB, 138 views)
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