ultimate budget speaker

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Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
Maybe it should read 1.5 way

When I suggested the "bipoles" it was because its designed fore two driwers - and I had the formerly suggested in mind - 2 x WR125 fore bass and lower midrange only, AND a FR125 for lower midrange and up - in this case I its ok with all driver on front
- AND WR125 is made in 16 ohm at a little higher cost though.
 
Hi,

do you want a 2 way - with 1x FR125S and 2x WR125S per side ?

or do you want a 1.5 way - with 1x FR125S and 1x WR125S per side ?

For both cases the crossover point will be set by baffle width.

Efficiency for both cases will be identical - 86dB.

Power handling for both cases will be not that different.

For the 1.5 way you need a series inductor for the WR125S.

For the 2 way I'd suggest a series first order crossover.

:)/sreten.
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
"wide and thin" - I like that, maybe 400-500mm

Your "dappolito" suggestion - well, you get a higher box, FR125 should be be in level with your ears - and constuction gets complicated and not present identical load to both woofers

I would prefer woofers(WR125) together and FR125 on top
Then If you "tilt" kabinet you will get a nice phase allignment

8 or 16 ohm WR125 version - good question

Series crossover - I know nothing about that - hard to "tweek"
 
i need to have another look at my room for next year at uni, see wether the 'wide and thin' design would fir, i think it will be better than 'thin and deep' as i will be able to place them closer to the wall.

i think i would prefere to have the FR in the middle of the WR's for better imaging and looks lol

wide and thin- 300mm wide, 900mm tall and 150mm deep gets 30L roughly, or same but 100mm deep makes 20L.
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
You should not use the entire height for internal box volume - you risk a nasty resonanse - better make it a bit deeper and fill bottom with sand

8 or 16 ohm WR125 -

with 2 x 8 ohm i paralel = 4 ohm you will probably get a bit "heavy" sound - but with a sealed box it might be ok
Advantage is that inductor will be smaller

with 2 x 16 ohm sound will most likely be more precise and present an easy load to amplifier
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
Maybe something like this
 

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  • fr125 wr125.png
    fr125 wr125.png
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Hi,

regarding 8 ohm or 16 ohm WR125's :

2 x 8 ohms will automatically give you full baffle step compensation
if a first order crossover is used, the frequency determined by baffle
width. If you use higher order you will get a step in the response.

First order series interact better with driver inductance and the
box resonance than the equivalent first order parallel crossover.

Full 6dB BSC will not suit a wide thin speaker placed close to a wall.

Presumably the 16 ohm version is 83dB/W(2.83V).

Using 2 x 16 ohms will give you 3dB of baffle step compensation,
which is likely going to be more suitable for wide + thin near a wall.

The distance of the top driver to all 3 edges should be different.
Usually in the ratio ~ 0.6 to the top, 1 to one side, 1.6 to the other.
(from the drivers centre - though you can reduce the top ratio)

:)/sreten.
 
Hi,

The ratio are usually 0.6 to the top = smallest distance.

The driver is usually centred on a point 60% of baffle width (=1:1.6).

Usually (though can be shorter) the distance of the centre of the driver
to the top is 60% of the shortest distance to the side (=0.6:1:1.6).

:)/sreten.
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
NICE! Just got an idea!

If you make cabinet deeper, say 200mm, and place bottom plate of bass chamber some 100mm higher, then you get a bigger chamber for sand

THEN, in time when you can afford it, you can clean out the sand and mount an Exstemis 6.8 and a plateamp with EQ

And maybe further on mount a ad-on ribbon on top

THEN you might have the ultimate highend speaker:cool:

I ought to build one myself:bawling:
 
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