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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle
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My first project will be Zaph's project #14 (Audax Mini) -- http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker14.html
Thanks to those that chimed in on my first thread (considering the HiVi junior project, and on the thread were I attempt to understand proper enclosure volumes I became fairly married to the idea of 2-way with a 4" woofer, then found the Audax drivers on sale at Madisound, so Zaph's 14 seems like a great fit. I plan to build a sealed enclosure, so my next project can be a sub I am excited to get this show on the road! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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We are excited for you and are anxious to see the results. Please keep us abreast of your progress and post photos if you can.
Good luck!
__________________
Soft Dome |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: quebec
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Hi, good to see that there's more and more exited guy from audio stuff, please keep updating with pics.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
I'll just point out that #14 is a good choice as long as you can actively cross them them over to a sub, i.e. you have a home theatre amplifier, and you can set the speakers to "small" in the set up options. Also note #14 has full BSC, a reduced BSC option is not detailed. This means they will need to be moved away from the rear wall. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle
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No prob on the active crossover. I have a (really really horrible) sub hooked up in this configuration already. I intend a "real" sub to be my next project.
The BSC situation is almost so hopeless as to not bother discussing it. The left speaker has a ton of flexibility... from say 6" from wall, out to 3 feet. The right speaker... hopeless. The speaker will basically centered (vertically) on a half wall... such that half the speaker is about the halfwall (where the "next" wall is about 7 feet away)... and the bottom half of the speaker will be too close to the wall, probably 6". Yes, nightmare. However, it is also what I have going on already w/ the current crappy speakers, so... still an improvement. And secretly, I hope that some day these end up just being my computer speakers Thanks for double checking these points w/ me sreten. You rock. I hope to buy wood for the enclosures today. I have already been messing around w/ the router, trying to figure out how to counter-sink the drivers... it's not pretty Mark's page on this same project (http://www.mhennessy.f9.co.uk/audax/experiments.htm) is really helpful, but my router has a guard in the way where some of the holes in the jig would go. Think I can just make a thicker jig and basically cut blind, trusting the jig... should be fun |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle
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Doh! Madisound doesn't have the AP100Z0's anymore!
![]() I was much happier at $20/each from Madisound... but parts express does have them for $28.75/each. Oh well.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle
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As mentioned two posts back, I was worried about how to make cuts for the flush mount. Well, I was able to play with it tonight, and I am pretty sure I have a system that will work for me
It's all about a nail that I used bolt cutters on... I attached a piece of particle board to the bottom of my router, and plunged the router on through. I measured from the of the plunged hole (plus or minus So, then I drill a hole where the center of the tweeter will go (in this case just a random spot on my scrap wood)... again the size of my nail (and using some tape on the drill bit to make sure I don't go too far). And that's about it. Drop the piece of nail in the hole, line it up w/ the hold on the router jig... set the depth... and spin away! Seemed to work! Test shot attached that indeed turned out 2.75". I attached a pic of my test cut if you wanna see |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: shorewood
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I used the same principle for making my router jig. I used a piece of 1/8" plexiglass (makes it easier to see your work) and scribed reference lines on the plastic for measurements. I drilled three holes for the router base and countersunk the holes. It spins around flat and will cut a hole from 1 3/4" to 30". It's alot cheaper than the prefab hole jigs and combines the small and large size jigs into one,
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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My router jig (clearly sean at pic)
http://www.diy-audio.narod.ru/other/circul.htm |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle
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I would have preferred a thinner pierce of wood for my base, and plexiglass does sound awesome! However, I wasn't sure how to deal w/ the existing router base (the metal I actually screwed my jig onto). It's a complete circle, about 3/4" inch wide (20'ish mm for non-us
Wasn't sure how to handle that, so I went w/ the think wood, requiring me to work blind. |
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