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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: virginia.usa
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Hello,
I have been reading through many of the threads here for a while and finally made some decisions. My father and I are going to build a pair of the Short Thors. After reading everything and looking at my budget I think this will provide the best results. I have the plans and I have read everything I could find about the design here on the forums (thanks to everyone who contributed, I've learned a ton) but I am unsure about the placement of the cross braces. I see it listed as placing them according to the golden ratio, by which I think you mean 1.61.. but how do you mean? In relation to each other, or should I divide the internal box depth, or from the front wall? Also, should they be drilled out like the central stabalizer (~50% open space)? This will be my first diy speaker project and I am really looking forward to building them. Thanks again to everyone who designed/contributed to the short thor. I'll post a build journal once we get going if anyone is interested. Cheers. (appolgies if this is a repost, I couldn't find this information in another thread) |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Quote:
I'm interested in building a Thor variant myself as my first DIY project. Although I've not built a speaker project yet and haven't read anything beyond these forums, I think I can still help - as I understand it, the braces should be placed such that as per the attached diagram, Y = 1.61X, (B + C) = 1.61A, B = 1.61C. I believe all the braces should be randomly drilled as much as possible. Regardless of which Thor variant I decide to build, I'll be using a number of ~20mm dowel braces bolted right through the box (unless someone can suggest a reason why this won't work). It should be just as stiff as the MDF braces (if not more so because it is bolted through and preload can be applied), but would occupy far less volume and is unlikely to have an audible effect unlike the braces. The recessed heads of the bolts (button cap screws?) could easily be filled and veneered/painted. Good luck, and please keep us up to date with your progress
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: virginia.usa
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Thanks for the reply. I hope to get started next month and I will post a build report as we go. Which variant are you leaning towards? It would be interested if you built something different, then we could compare results. I'll keep you posted.
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Quote:
I haven't decided which variant I'll build yet - I like the bottom firing port of the Fat Thor, but my newbie instincts tell me that having the top driver poking over the top of the internal baffle is asking for trouble ![]() So maybe the Short Thor or Small Thor? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Is the port of the Short Thor required to be rear-firing, or would front-firing be equivalent?
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: bendigo.vic.au
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Quote:
Sorry, please ignore that question - it's answered on Scottmoose's drawings . The port *can* be moved to the front (or bottom) of the Short Thor.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: virginia.usa
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No worries, I haven't decided where I was going to put the port yet. I think I may keep it in the back, since I think the lines on the front would be nicer uninterupted, but that is just asthetics. I don't know enough to answer your speaker placement / baffle question, sorry.
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