here's a page people might find interesting
http://home.comcast.net/~kidder/Audio/TransLam/translam_alpha.htm
while the construction method has existed for many years,
I think it was Keith who actually coined the word "Translam"
It might exist prior, but I had never heard it.
http://home.comcast.net/~kidder/Audio/TransLam/translam_alpha.htm
while the construction method has existed for many years,
I think it was Keith who actually coined the word "Translam"
It might exist prior, but I had never heard it.
Looking at the photos in this thread it looks more like the "strip planking technique" used in boat building. Most DIY boatbuilding books and websites have descriptions on this technique. It is also sometime used for wing masts on catamarans so is quite strong. The sections are often made with mating convex and concave faces so the edges mate like this ((.
jamikl
jamikl
The distance between cuts is dependent of the desired radius of the bend. There is a special formula for that.
One can use regular plywood of 6-8mm thickness and apply as many layers as desired, they will bend as requested, if the bend is not made too small.
Some varieties of HDF will also bend, they might however be difficult to bond to each other, I've heard.
The problem with building curved-wall speaker cabinets using kerfed anything is resonances. See the several evaluations of Insignia, for example.
The answer seems to be fill, either during the curving process, or subsequently, if the surface is exposed. What the opimum fill material might be, I don't know. I'd be tempted to try structural adhesive as a start.
Parts Express curved cabinets seem to be made of laminated thin layers of MDF, or similar material. Doing that on a form such as a skeleton of internal bracing would appear to be a workable DIY approach....
The answer seems to be fill, either during the curving process, or subsequently, if the surface is exposed. What the opimum fill material might be, I don't know. I'd be tempted to try structural adhesive as a start.
Parts Express curved cabinets seem to be made of laminated thin layers of MDF, or similar material. Doing that on a form such as a skeleton of internal bracing would appear to be a workable DIY approach....
Another method, again from boatbuilding, would be to make a form from scrap mdf and lathes. If the pattern in the timber being used is not even, there would need to be two forms, one big enough for both left hand sides and the other similar for both right sides. One form could be used if you do the two sides at different times, being careful to orient the outer layer in the correct direction.
You would use four to five 1/4 inch or 6mm layers laid diagonally on the form and the first layer stapled to the lathes. Each diagonal piece about 4 inches or 100mm wide. Lay one then leave a slightly smaller gap and layer the next and so on. Afterwards scribe pieces to fill the gaps and but tightly against the already fixed pieces. The next layer is laid up in the opposite direction. Build up as many layers as you need but run the final layer lengthwise, not diagonally. If this final layer is a good piece of timber well fitted it becomes the finished surface. Each layer is stapled through strong tape until the glue hardens then pull the taped to remove staples.
Some form of constrained layer could be worked into this layup if wanted.
Hope you can follow this!!!
jamikl
You would use four to five 1/4 inch or 6mm layers laid diagonally on the form and the first layer stapled to the lathes. Each diagonal piece about 4 inches or 100mm wide. Lay one then leave a slightly smaller gap and layer the next and so on. Afterwards scribe pieces to fill the gaps and but tightly against the already fixed pieces. The next layer is laid up in the opposite direction. Build up as many layers as you need but run the final layer lengthwise, not diagonally. If this final layer is a good piece of timber well fitted it becomes the finished surface. Each layer is stapled through strong tape until the glue hardens then pull the taped to remove staples.
Some form of constrained layer could be worked into this layup if wanted.
Hope you can follow this!!!
jamikl
Different approach?
This may be messy, and if you are married permission may be difficult to come by..... But it is absolutely brilliant!
Have a look at this link. http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?IA=WO1993019910&DISPLAY=DESC
It describes how to bend up to 18mm MDF into small diameter cylindrical shapes and even more esoteric designs. It may involve a slight health hazard
but the method should be practical for the careful diy psychopathic fanatic.
After using a set of home made cylindrical cabinets in steel skinned 1/2" cement with my Kef B139s for many years, I am now trying to upgrade to another cylindrical set but this time in MDF. There is no way I am going back to rectangular profiles after living with curves. So smooth and deep and stress free. It's either find some sensible way to do it, (and using pre-slashed board isn't really the solid answer imho), or pay a fortune to get someone else to do it for me.
This may be messy, and if you are married permission may be difficult to come by..... But it is absolutely brilliant!
Have a look at this link. http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?IA=WO1993019910&DISPLAY=DESC
It describes how to bend up to 18mm MDF into small diameter cylindrical shapes and even more esoteric designs. It may involve a slight health hazard
but the method should be practical for the careful diy psychopathic fanatic.After using a set of home made cylindrical cabinets in steel skinned 1/2" cement with my Kef B139s for many years, I am now trying to upgrade to another cylindrical set but this time in MDF. There is no way I am going back to rectangular profiles after living with curves. So smooth and deep and stress free. It's either find some sensible way to do it, (and using pre-slashed board isn't really the solid answer imho), or pay a fortune to get someone else to do it for me.
just looked at the PMS thread and realised that the method detailed in my post aboVe could be a great way of making the four shells ( two fronts and two rears ). This method would allow horizontal outer solid timbers to be laminated on, say something like maple, with thin bands of a darker timber between each plank.
Vacuum bagging is often used in this method, which I forgot to mention above.
jamikl
Vacuum bagging is often used in this method, which I forgot to mention above.
jamikl
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