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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town
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Hi everyone, I'm new here and very new to DIY audio. Hoping for some sound advice from the pros.
I have decided to attempt to build a madisound ar.com speaker pair with a sub with built in amp. It will be used with my computer for video editing as well as music and DVDs. At first I thought it would be as simple as building a box and sticking some drivers into it; but then I did some research and now I am having nightmares about standing waves and frequencey dips. So, before I start cutting, I would like to get some advice. I have ordered the following parts: ar.com kit: Peerless 850122 woofer, Peerless 812687 tweeter, pre-built crossovers, ports etc. (see http://www.madisound.com/ar_com.html) Hi-Vi D8.8 9" woofer (http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind....2138&pid=1834) Keiga KG-3100 2.1 Amplifier (http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...18084&pid=1621) Because the speakers will only be about 5" from the wall, I was advised to front port them. I also increased the volume of the design from madisound slightly. My design is as follows: ![]() Are the dimensions okay? Is the port a good depth/width/height? I do have a circular 6" port. Would that be better? If so, how should I place it? I have designed the sub as follows: ![]() It's a sealed design (mostly because it's easier to build) and the amp is in a separate compartment at the back. Does sealed mean totally airtight? Should I make sure there are no gaps where the wires enter etc? Are these dimensions okay? Would it be better to leave out the division and have the amp sticking into the main compartment? Any other advice or comments will be appreciated. Sorry for all the questions, I have tried to research this but I quickly find myself out of my depth. Thanks for any advice, Rob |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town
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Forgot to mention: I intend to build the enclosures out of 20mm pine. I could also use MDF with a thin layer of pine on the outside for appearance. Would MDF be better than pine or is it much of a muchness?
Thanks, Rob |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town
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Sooo.. now I've found an online speaker dimension calculator thing (using a mac so can't run the software on my machine): http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver
So I plug in the parameters for the above designs (speaker option 2, with the circular port): SPEAKERS Vas: 27.7 Qts: 0.38 Fs: 30 Vb: 13.5 liters Fb: 25 SUB Vas: 46.8 Qts: 0.38 Fs: 30 Vb: 17 liters I plotted these two graphs on top of each other (results attached, sub in purple). What bothers me here is that the speakers seem to have an almost identical bass response to the sub. If that is the case, why do I need a sub at all? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
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Hi
what is the Mad kits desired box and tuning? This is with WinISD box model program (see attached) peerless 850122 8 liter with Fb=39 Swan D8.8 30 liter Fb= 36
__________________
like four million tons of hydrogen exploding on the sun like the whisper of the termites building castles in the dust |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town
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Quote:
Vb: 36.88 Fb: 33.67 And for the 8.8 (sealed): Vb: 19.1 I assume that is what you mean by "desired". Unfortunately, 36 L is too big for me. Thanks for the graph, could you redo one with the following parameters for the speakers (not sure if this tuning is ideal, feel free to change it if it is not good): Vb: 13.5 liters Fb: 25 |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
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Hi
No, I meant what Madisound suggested for their Kit. They did provide plans and drawings for them? ie box and vent sizes How about Crossover schematics? Good to get a baseline before you start changing things, yes?
__________________
like four million tons of hydrogen exploding on the sun like the whisper of the termites building castles in the dust |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town
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Ah yes. They provide this box design: http://www.madisound.com/pdf/arcomcabinet.pdf. I wanted to make a slightly larger enclosure and front port because they will sit quite near a wall.
For the crossover they provide this schematic: http://www.madisound.com/efe_diy.html |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
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Q1 Is this a nearfield monitor?
Q2 Is that a switch pad network on tweeter? If not what resistor is used in the design? Q3 Most importantly. Where is the crossover for the Sub woofer?
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like four million tons of hydrogen exploding on the sun like the whisper of the termites building castles in the dust |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town
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Thanks for taking an interest Infinia.
Q1 Is this a nearfield monitor? Yes and no. The speakers will be on a shelf on top of my desk to the sides of my monitors so mostly they will be used when I am close to them. However, my desk will be in my lounge so I will also use them for general listening and watching DVDs. Q2 Is that a switch pad network on tweeter? If not what resistor is used in the design? This explains the resistor: Quote:
The sub crossover is built into the plate amp which will be attached to the sub: Keiga KG-3100 2.1 Amplifier http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...18084&pid=1621 |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
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Quote:
green=peerless baseline 8.0 liter Fb=53 blue=swan 8.8 30 liter Fb=36 yellow= swan 8.8 20 liter closed box Q=0.7 This is not a nearfield design. So what that means is they use the 3 dB midbass peaking and crossover's early midbass rolloff and padded tweeter for a baffle width compesation scheme. Answered my own Q's A1) No A2) end user adjust for taste. A3) Forgot use a plate Amp built in cross over My advice build it with no changes. Keep port design as is. Sub woofer use ported design with walled off plate amp. Then add cooling vents for amp in its own chamber. Use MDF for SUB and a nice hardwood instead of pine. Build it and enjoy it with your ipod. Come back a visit with pictures. Cheers,
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