Hi guys! Im new to this forum.
Ive been a car audio enthusiast for quite some time now. However, Ive got no clue how home audio works...
Last week I purchased a pair of computer speakers... Logitech Z-4.
They sound crappy to say the least. I am really dissapointed at them.\
So Id like to build my own computer speakers.
I have a pair of Dayton RS180 7" speakers from an old car audio project. They are unshielded, 4 ohm version.
Could I use this speakers?
What else would I need? amp? crossover? tweeter? sub?
Im really lost here guys, any help is greatly appreciated.
Id like to keep it under $150 if possible. I can get the Klipsch promedia 2.1 for around that amount, and Ive heard they are great speakers.
Please advice!
Ive been a car audio enthusiast for quite some time now. However, Ive got no clue how home audio works...
Last week I purchased a pair of computer speakers... Logitech Z-4.
They sound crappy to say the least. I am really dissapointed at them.\
So Id like to build my own computer speakers.
I have a pair of Dayton RS180 7" speakers from an old car audio project. They are unshielded, 4 ohm version.
Could I use this speakers?
What else would I need? amp? crossover? tweeter? sub?
Im really lost here guys, any help is greatly appreciated.
Id like to keep it under $150 if possible. I can get the Klipsch promedia 2.1 for around that amount, and Ive heard they are great speakers.
Please advice!
As a bare minimum, you'll need a robust little tweeter with an Fs at about 1K, a capacitor and probably a coil for 12dB slope. The published FR of the Dayton says extension to 2,200Hz only so best to keep it below that.
If you understood what I just said then I'll continue. If not, we'll go back.
If you understood what I just said then I'll continue. If not, we'll go back.
As a bare minimum, you'll need a robust little tweeter with an Fs at about 1K, a capacitor and probably a coil for 12dB slope. The published FR of the Dayton says extension to 2,200Hz only so best to keep it below that.
If you understood what I just said then I'll continue. If not, we'll go back.
Thanks for the reply.
I didnt understant a thing you said. I guess it has something to do with the crossover?
If possible, I woould like to purchase pre made crossovers. I dont think I have the tools or skills to get into detailed electronics.
As for the tweeters, I have heard good things about seas, dayton, and some neo3 planar?
If you understood what I just said then I'll continue. If not, we'll go back.
Thanks for the reply.
I didnt understant a thing you said. I guess it has something to do with the crossover?
If possible, I woould like to purchase pre made crossovers. I dont think I have the tools or skills to get into detailed electronics.
As for the tweeters, I have heard good things about seas, dayton, and some neo3 planar?
JUST going out on a limb here
why nto cross it to one of those 3" tang band fullrangers? they have very usable extension till quite high, sound quite good and if you wanted you could even cross at like 500hz or 250 with first order networks(im assuming that with a first order crossover the tang band has enough excursion that the lows that do leak through wont really deteriorate sond, and that a first order low pass at 250 or 500hz on the 7" dayton would have the output down enough by the time breakup becomes a problem) if not maybe a second order on the woofer and a first order on the fullranger.
ive heard very good things about first order crossovers in terms of efficiency dynamics and neutrality. i think its dunlavy that only uses first order networks and theyre supposed to sound phenominal.
clear this plan up wil cal first though, for he is far more knowledgeable than i.
why nto cross it to one of those 3" tang band fullrangers? they have very usable extension till quite high, sound quite good and if you wanted you could even cross at like 500hz or 250 with first order networks(im assuming that with a first order crossover the tang band has enough excursion that the lows that do leak through wont really deteriorate sond, and that a first order low pass at 250 or 500hz on the 7" dayton would have the output down enough by the time breakup becomes a problem) if not maybe a second order on the woofer and a first order on the fullranger.
ive heard very good things about first order crossovers in terms of efficiency dynamics and neutrality. i think its dunlavy that only uses first order networks and theyre supposed to sound phenominal.
clear this plan up wil cal first though, for he is far more knowledgeable than i.
It should be fine with an LCD.
You'd be better off using just one Infinity coaxial, with the dayton handling the lower frequencies if you wish (or, you could just stick to the Infinitys alone!).
The frequency range that each of those drivers can handle do overlap - which is a good thing. What you *do* have to put in is a crossover. Either design one or buy one, with the crossover frequency set to something below 1KHz. 500Hz should be fine. Or even lower if you wish.
Cheers!
You'd be better off using just one Infinity coaxial, with the dayton handling the lower frequencies if you wish (or, you could just stick to the Infinitys alone!).
The frequency range that each of those drivers can handle do overlap - which is a good thing. What you *do* have to put in is a crossover. Either design one or buy one, with the crossover frequency set to something below 1KHz. 500Hz should be fine. Or even lower if you wish.
Cheers!
Yes, I think the two woofers and one coax in each cabinet will work fine. Just add a cap for the high pass to the coax at whatever frequency you want. If it's below 2K you'll also want a coil on the woofs. If you are not comfortable making them you can get away with a premade XO. (shh..don't let anyone hear that) 
Cal Weldon said:Yes, I think the two woofers and one coax in each cabinet will work fine. Just add a cap for the high pass to the coax at whatever frequency you want. If it's below 2K you'll also want a coil on the woofs. If you are not comfortable making them you can get away with a premade XO. (shh..don't let anyone hear that)
Actually, I only have one pair of each. So, will one woofer and one coaxial per cabinet be fine?
By cap yo mean a bass blocker?
Is a coil on the woofers the same as a notch filter?
Sorry for the dumb questions, I guess just not as smart as many of you in here
jonnyq said:
Yes
That's a good name for it. It's a non-polarized capacitor.
It is a choke coil. it blocks the highs from the woofer. It is part of a notch filter, but let's not get carried away at this point. Chokes are also known as inductors.
Here is the PE explanation of notch filters:
Notch Filter - Parallel: A filter used in crossover construction that attenuates the signal only at a specific frequency. The "notch" can be adjusted to a specific frequency, depth and width. The most versatile type of notch filter is the "parallel notch filter" or "parallel trap circuit"; these are two different names for a combination of a resistor, inductor, and capacitor in parallel. By adjusting the values of these components, the location, width, and depth of the notch can be manipulated. These filters are very difficult to design, due to the complex interactions of the non-ideal portions of each component. A notch filter like this is usually designed using formulae to calculate approximate values and then trial-and-error to get the exact desired result. The advantages of a parallel notch filter are that they work independently from the impedance of the driver, and can be added to an existing crossover network.
Notch Filter - Series: The series notch filter is used primarily on tweeters and dome midranges to reduce the magnitude of the impedance peak at the resonant frequency. The large impedance peak on non-ferrofluid enhanced domes can cause erratic performance of the crossover near the resonant frequency. An inductor, capacitor, and resistor are connected in series to each other, all of which are connected in across the terminals of the driver.
Don't worry, neither am I.
There are no dumb questions, just dumb people who don't ask before proceeding.
I think your idea will be fine. Go ahead and build it in a test box and if things aren't perfect, you can always fool around until you like it. That's how I do it when making use of existing drivers and things that weren't necessarily made for each other.
i'm sorry to play the anti do it entirely by yourself dude, it is not a comfortable position around here
but if i were you, meaning, if i had a lot of spare difficult to use metal mid bass drivers, and no experience and theoretical background in crossover design, i would probably buy two tweeters and build one of the numerous designs using RS180, wich is a wonderful driver, as a midbass.
this one is the one i would build, even if the builder is apparently listening to diana krall (no pun intended) :
lonesaguaro RS180 - Neo3PDR design
but if i were you, meaning, if i had a lot of spare difficult to use metal mid bass drivers, and no experience and theoretical background in crossover design, i would probably buy two tweeters and build one of the numerous designs using RS180, wich is a wonderful driver, as a midbass.
this one is the one i would build, even if the builder is apparently listening to diana krall (no pun intended) :
lonesaguaro RS180 - Neo3PDR design
You guys, let's not stray too far here. The man has the drivers and just wants to know if he should try it. I think he should. It'll be great learning experince and won't cost a lot if he's not happy with the results. He can start with rough boxes, fool with them and then move on to a better box if he's happy. I don't think he needs to be steered too far off course just yet. Didn't we all have ideas like this in our earlier years?
Heck, my first was a single Jensen 6X9 with a whizzer cone, mounted in a cardboard box with twist-ties and part of an old pillow for stuffing. It was wrapped in duct tape and wired through the earphone plug on a mono FM radio.
I was so pleased. That's how it all started for me. Let's let the man have his day.
Heck, my first was a single Jensen 6X9 with a whizzer cone, mounted in a cardboard box with twist-ties and part of an old pillow for stuffing. It was wrapped in duct tape and wired through the earphone plug on a mono FM radio.
I was so pleased. That's how it all started for me. Let's let the man have his day.
Cal Weldon said:
Yes
That's a good name for it. It's a non-polarized capacitor.
It is a choke coil. it blocks the highs from the woofer. It is part of a notch filter, but let's not get carried away at this point. Chokes are also known as inductors.
Here is the PE explanation of notch filters:
Notch Filter - Parallel: A filter used in crossover construction that attenuates the signal only at a specific frequency. The "notch" can be adjusted to a specific frequency, depth and width. The most versatile type of notch filter is the "parallel notch filter" or "parallel trap circuit"; these are two different names for a combination of a resistor, inductor, and capacitor in parallel. By adjusting the values of these components, the location, width, and depth of the notch can be manipulated. These filters are very difficult to design, due to the complex interactions of the non-ideal portions of each component. A notch filter like this is usually designed using formulae to calculate approximate values and then trial-and-error to get the exact desired result. The advantages of a parallel notch filter are that they work independently from the impedance of the driver, and can be added to an existing crossover network.
Notch Filter - Series: The series notch filter is used primarily on tweeters and dome midranges to reduce the magnitude of the impedance peak at the resonant frequency. The large impedance peak on non-ferrofluid enhanced domes can cause erratic performance of the crossover near the resonant frequency. An inductor, capacitor, and resistor are connected in series to each other, all of which are connected in across the terminals of the driver.
Don't worry, neither am I.
There are no dumb questions, just dumb people who don't ask before proceeding.
I think your idea will be fine. Go ahead and build it in a test box and if things aren't perfect, you can always fool around until you like it. That's how I do it when making use of existing drivers and things that weren't necessarily made for each other.
Thanks for the explanations!
I'm starting to think that this might not be the best idea. If I've learnt someting from car audio, is that its better to save up and get it right the first time.
Maybe I'll just put the infinities in a box and run them full range, and make that a spare skeaker set.
As for the Daytons, I need some ideas!
Nemophyle said:i'm sorry to play the anti do it entirely by yourself dude, it is not a comfortable position around here
but if i were you, meaning, if i had a lot of spare difficult to use metal mid bass drivers, and no experience and theoretical background in crossover design, i would probably buy two tweeters and build one of the numerous designs using RS180, wich is a wonderful driver, as a midbass.
this one is the one i would build, even if the builder is apparently listening to diana krall (no pun intended) :
lonesaguaro RS180 - Neo3PDR design
This seems like a really good idea!
is that a ported box??
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