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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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First, I should admit something: I'm a n00b to DIY speakers. I've got a pair of Baby Advents which I'm rather proud of, but I'd like to try my hand at some DIY speakers.
Now, here's the catch: I can work metal, and I can work PVC with some skill, but I'm no good at all with woodworking. Anyway, I figure that this might be a good place to bring up some plans for simple, cheap speakers, and perhaps design one that some newbie like myself can make in an afternoon. Please note that I'm still rather confused as to much of speaker terminology; this is intended as something of a "start here" page for people who need the help. (Like me.) As a side note: Can anyone drag up a spec file for the assorted Tang Band drivers, such as the W3-871S, for ISPcad? I've been having a hard time figuring out how to do much of anything in it. Here's a pair of rather nifty TL speakers: http://diy.nachmu.com/Katkit.htm Very simple, and they're supposed to sound okay. Could anyone suggest a way to perhaps modify one of these for inexpensive drivers like the W3's, or reccomend an inexpensive alternative, such as from ApexJr? The "Seraphim" PVC transmission line speakers. Simple, and they're supposed to sound great! http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projec...uke/index.html Once again, if someone could show me how to modify one of these to use cheaper drivers, it would be dandy. "Nick's Tubular TL's" A PVC "sonotube"-style subwoofer. http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/nick/index.html Honestly, I'd love to see one of these downsized to use a smaller woofer, if only to reduce costs. Also, it would mean that I could actually fit one in my house. "SDSS 1.1" A really simple, really cheap set of speakers made from cardboard, of all things. Of course, I'd use PVC scrap instead, but that's because I'm me. They're based around W3-871S speakers, so they're cheap to build. http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...s11/sdss11.htm "Babysnakes" ABS TL http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projec...abysnakes.html These look dandy. Admittedly, they use REALLY cheap drivers, but look at the size! They're tiny! "Drooping Didgeridoo" ABS/cut plywood TL http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projec...pson/fqwt.html These are the successors to the successors to the successors of "babysnakes". Once again, they look sweet, but the Fostex 127 drivers used make these speakers both HUGE and a bit pricey for a first-time DIY. "The Toobz" simple TL speakers http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/toobz/index.html These look really nice, and simple, too! However, I could'nt find the drivers anywhere. "Periscopes" http://melhuish.org/audio/DIYTQ7.html These are some nifty speakers, and the simplest of the lot!. I wonder how they'd work folded? "Voight Pipes" (Yes, I know this is'nt the original page). http://melhuish.org/audio/DIYTQ4.html Simple, albiet rather large, speakers. "Helixes" http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~hanbei/eng-rear.html Very nifty. I actually might try making a pair of these! "pipe dreams" http://www.geocities.com/qgap/Pipe_Dreams.html A nice example of PVC tube speakers that were made cheaply and sound good. What I'd like to see: A folded TL design, such as the "babysnakes", for an inexpensive (sub-20$) driver. I wonder if, using lots of L-brackets, or, better still, a PVC bender, a snail-like shape could be made of PVC? (Yes, I ripped the idea off of the nautilus speakers I saw in a shop window. Sue me.) -Joe. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
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I made a variation on the 'Pipe dreams' and put in
an extra length plus one elbow giving 81 inches over all. I never resolved the 'dead spot' at the bottom of "u" shape where the sections come together at the "t" joint. I used the RS 1197 which very similar if not a rebranded item from Fostex called the FE 103. The effect is quite extraordinary on things like organ recitals but the soundstage was virtually non-existent due to using that toilet flange and baffle for mounting. I've decided that if you have a "nautical" motif somewhere that this sort of thing will be attractive as a novelty, but at some point you will want to make a box design. You can still use some PVC. :-) In an MLTL build I have a 6 in port of 2 in PVC extending from the bottom. This concept can be seen at the Jordan site . Simple glue up clamps and a hole cutter at the end of a drill got me going on this. Just locate somebody with a table saw. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: British Antarctic Territory
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Bigger is Better
The 40-1354 is increasingly difficult to find, but any number of vintage 5" to 6-1/2" full-rangers would work. |
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#4 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
That said, if I know PVC, you might be better off with either a "U' joint or some cut pieces of PVC. That way, you'd have a nice rounded path for the sound, instead of some funny duct sticking off at an angle. Quote:
As long as we're (sort of) on the topic, could anyone tell me if it's possible to retrofit the "periscopes" for less expensive drivers? They look like they'd make wonderful HT speakers if used with a subwoofer, and it would'nt be hard to bodge together seven. Also, could someone show me the software used to model "babysnakes"? I've got some junk speakers laying about, and it might be fun to try making a set of cheap PVC speakers. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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If you want something really cheap and simple, take a look at:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html This project has a lot going for it. It is very well documented, so you will learn a lot. Also, the drivers are inexpensive, yet they perform well. Try them out with cardboard first and no BSC/filter. Then add the electronics and see how that improves the sound. When you are happy, build a box. If you have woofers kicking around, make a subwoofer with PVC pipe to fill in the bottom end. Good luck.
__________________
DIY Audio Projects [ 10" DIY Subwoofer | FE127E Sealed Bipole | [ LM3886 Chip Amp / Gainclone | K-12M Tube Amp Kit ] |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
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As to the long pipes with the t-joints, well they have
to sit on something and that's why things with flat bottoms were used. Soundstage: A stero pair should reproduce a soundstage bewteen the left and right channels giving the effect of one space with instruments audible at various points. My baffles for the RS1197 were inadequate and I can only really point to that as the problem. I did try various toe-in things and such but this was not scientific build: just something I did with hardware supply store pvc and a hacksaw. Aluminum flanges might be the nuts, but I don't know anything about them. For those lacking tools or woodworking skills such as myself, one of the projects which might come into line is the Bigger is better project. Tools required: hole saw jig saw and screw driver. Materials: 2 standard 12x72x3/4 glueup shelving pieces and 1x6 or 1x8 for the framing This will provide an acceptible approval factor for living room use and the construction is just laying out the pieces , gluing and clamping. Ooops, get some clamps too at Harbor freight when they're on deal for $3-6 each. The wood was $8 per piece on deal at the local Menards. Board length stuff will vary. Most of my stuff has no stain or other finishing at least for now. Measures for various drivers for the Bigger Is Better are being prepared and can be found in the BIB thread. It's a good hobby with many dedicated participants. |
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