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Old 18th March 2006, 06:41 AM   #1
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Location: Wisconsin....what did you expect?
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Default The "Really simple and cheap speaker designs for the newbie!" thread.

First, I should admit something: I'm a n00b to DIY speakers. I've got a pair of Baby Advents which I'm rather proud of, but I'd like to try my hand at some DIY speakers.
Now, here's the catch: I can work metal, and I can work PVC with some skill, but I'm no good at all with woodworking.
Anyway, I figure that this might be a good place to bring up some plans for simple, cheap speakers, and perhaps design one that some newbie like myself can make in an afternoon.
Please note that I'm still rather confused as to much of speaker terminology; this is intended as something of a "start here" page for people who need the help. (Like me.)

As a side note: Can anyone drag up a spec file for the assorted Tang Band drivers, such as the W3-871S, for ISPcad? I've been having a hard time figuring out how to do much of anything in it.

Here's a pair of rather nifty TL speakers:
http://diy.nachmu.com/Katkit.htm
Very simple, and they're supposed to sound okay. Could anyone suggest a way to perhaps modify one of these for inexpensive drivers like the W3's, or reccomend an inexpensive alternative, such as from ApexJr?


The "Seraphim" PVC transmission line speakers. Simple, and they're supposed to sound great!
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projec...uke/index.html
Once again, if someone could show me how to modify one of these to use cheaper drivers, it would be dandy.

"Nick's Tubular TL's"
A PVC "sonotube"-style subwoofer. http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/nick/index.html
Honestly, I'd love to see one of these downsized to use a smaller woofer, if only to reduce costs. Also, it would mean that I could actually fit one in my house.


"SDSS 1.1"
A really simple, really cheap set of speakers made from cardboard, of all things. Of course, I'd use PVC scrap instead, but that's because I'm me. They're based around W3-871S speakers, so they're cheap to build.
http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...s11/sdss11.htm


"Babysnakes"
ABS TL
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projec...abysnakes.html
These look dandy. Admittedly, they use REALLY cheap drivers, but look at the size! They're tiny!

"Drooping Didgeridoo"
ABS/cut plywood TL
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projec...pson/fqwt.html
These are the successors to the successors to the successors of "babysnakes". Once again, they look sweet, but the Fostex 127 drivers used make these speakers both HUGE and a bit pricey for a first-time DIY.

"The Toobz" simple TL speakers
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/toobz/index.html
These look really nice, and simple, too! However, I could'nt find the drivers anywhere.


"Periscopes"
http://melhuish.org/audio/DIYTQ7.html
These are some nifty speakers, and the simplest of the lot!. I wonder how they'd work folded?

"Voight Pipes"
(Yes, I know this is'nt the original page).
http://melhuish.org/audio/DIYTQ4.html
Simple, albiet rather large, speakers.

"Helixes"
http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~hanbei/eng-rear.html
Very nifty. I actually might try making a pair of these!

"pipe dreams"
http://www.geocities.com/qgap/Pipe_Dreams.html
A nice example of PVC tube speakers that were made cheaply and sound good.

What I'd like to see:
A folded TL design, such as the "babysnakes", for an inexpensive (sub-20$) driver.

I wonder if, using lots of L-brackets, or, better still, a PVC bender, a snail-like shape could be made of PVC? (Yes, I ripped the idea off of the nautilus speakers I saw in a shop window. Sue me.)

-Joe.
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Old 18th March 2006, 02:52 PM   #2
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
I made a variation on the 'Pipe dreams' and put in
an extra length plus one elbow giving 81 inches over all.


I never resolved the 'dead spot' at the bottom of
"u" shape where the sections come together at the
"t" joint.

I used the RS 1197 which very similar if not a rebranded
item from Fostex called the FE 103.


The effect is quite extraordinary on things like organ
recitals but the soundstage was virtually non-existent
due to using that toilet flange and baffle for mounting.


I've decided that if you have a "nautical" motif somewhere
that this sort of thing will be attractive as a novelty, but
at some point you will want to make a box design.


You can still use some PVC. :-) In an MLTL build I
have a 6 in port of 2 in PVC extending from the bottom.


This concept can be seen at the Jordan site .


Simple glue up clamps and a hole cutter at the end of
a drill got me going on this. Just locate somebody with
a table saw.
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Old 18th March 2006, 04:10 PM   #3
Dumbass is offline Dumbass  British Antarctic Territory
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Bigger is Better

The 40-1354 is increasingly difficult to find, but any number of vintage 5" to 6-1/2" full-rangers would work.
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Old 18th March 2006, 05:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by loninappleton
I made a variation on the 'Pipe dreams' and put in
an extra length plus one elbow giving 81 inches over all.


I never resolved the 'dead spot' at the bottom of
"u" shape where the sections come together at the
"t" joint.

I used the RS 1197 which very similar if not a rebranded
item from Fostex called the FE 103.


The effect is quite extraordinary on things like organ
recitals but the soundstage was virtually non-existent
due to using that toilet flange and baffle for mounting.
Mind helping me by explaining said "dead spot"? I'm not even entirely sure as to what a "soundstage" is. (I just wanted to bodge together some speakers.)
That said, if I know PVC, you might be better off with either a "U' joint or some cut pieces of PVC. That way, you'd have a nice rounded path for the sound, instead of some funny duct sticking off at an angle.




Quote:
Originally posted by loninappleton


I've decided that if you have a "nautical" motif somewhere
that this sort of thing will be attractive as a novelty, but
at some point you will want to make a box design.

You'd be surprised what some aluminum flashing can do for a design, if etched and wrapped around it.

As long as we're (sort of) on the topic, could anyone tell me if it's possible to retrofit the "periscopes" for less expensive drivers? They look like they'd make wonderful HT speakers if used with a subwoofer, and it would'nt be hard to bodge together seven.

Also, could someone show me the software used to model "babysnakes"? I've got some junk speakers laying about, and it might be fun to try making a set of cheap PVC speakers.
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Old 18th March 2006, 06:45 PM   #5
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
If you want something really cheap and simple, take a look at:

http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html

This project has a lot going for it. It is very well documented, so you will learn a lot. Also, the drivers are inexpensive, yet they perform well.

Try them out with cardboard first and no BSC/filter. Then add the electronics and see how that improves the sound. When you are happy, build a box.

If you have woofers kicking around, make a subwoofer with PVC pipe to fill in the bottom end.

Good luck.
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Old 19th March 2006, 04:16 AM   #6
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
As to the long pipes with the t-joints, well they have
to sit on something and that's why things with flat bottoms
were used.


Soundstage:


A stero pair should reproduce a soundstage bewteen the
left and right channels giving the effect of one space with
instruments audible at various points.


My baffles for the RS1197 were inadequate and I can
only really point to that as the problem. I did try various
toe-in things and such but this was not scientific build:
just something I did with hardware supply store pvc and
a hacksaw.


Aluminum flanges might be the nuts, but I don't know
anything about them.


For those lacking tools or woodworking skills such as myself,
one of the projects which might come into line is the Bigger is better
project. Tools required: hole saw jig saw and screw driver.

Materials:

2 standard 12x72x3/4 glueup shelving pieces and 1x6 or 1x8 for the
framing This will provide an acceptible approval factor for
living room use and the construction is just laying out the pieces
, gluing and clamping.


Ooops, get some clamps too at Harbor freight when they're on deal for
$3-6 each.

The wood was $8 per piece on deal at the local Menards. Board length
stuff will vary. Most of my stuff has no stain or other finishing at
least for now.


Measures for various drivers for the Bigger Is Better are being
prepared and can be found in the BIB thread.



It's a good hobby with many dedicated participants.
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