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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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I feel lucky today. I picked these up from a local speaker repair shop for the exact amount I got from turning in some scrap metal
I need to figure out what model they are, and how to use them. Any research I have done leads me to believe they are either K3808 or K3838. They have what seems to be a cloth surround and therefore I think they are K3808. some parameters of both can be found here OK, can someone help me figure which one I have. Once that's established, I need to figure how to use them. I will be using an active crossover and relatively low power Aleph class A stuff. They will eventually be supplemented with a subwoofer so I'm not too worried about real 'digging' bass. That midbass 'snap' is more critical to me here. By the way, I see an almost parallel thread currently. I don't want to clutter that so I've started a new one. Suggestions for cabinet and Xover point/slope??? Thanks a lot in advance, Marc
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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another
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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last one
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Zevenbergen
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Hi,
As far as i can tell by the picture it neither of both, because it's no 15" in diameter. ( at least that what i think when i look at the cone/ dustcap ratio). It look to me as a unit from the SRM/SGM series. Check here for more info: http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy40.htm I hope this helps you a little bit futher. Kind regards, Vinncent |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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your right. It's a 12 inch driver. I thought the models I mentioned were 12"....am I wrong?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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Thanks Vinncent,
It looks like I was on the wrong trail there. The link you posted I think may be right on! That would make them a SGM 12. Looks like someone did some T+S measurements here . I don't understand that page. There are two sets of measurements...top and bottom of page. The top one has mass added and the bottom does not, the numbers are completely different. Which set of numbers do I pay attention to? Looks like an 'open baffle' candidate possibly? Any help on these is well appreciated..there does not seem to be a lot of info floating around out there.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: vancouver
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Did you not get Crossovers?? They work darn near as well as an active. according to those who have seriously experimented.
YMMV. Assuming you house these in 'adequate' enclosures there should be no need for a Sub . A decent high current capable Amp (20+) at least will give better result than the Pass Gizmos, at least on those Drivers, especially IF you want the midbass 'snap' you aspire to. Properly Fed these, although an errr.. 'reduced' Tannoy DC are still capable of Serious performance, choose to use it :-) G'luck. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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Thanks Bare,
No crossovers. I understand these drivers were pulled from cabs from a studio in Boston (CBS studios I think) and brought in for HF element replacement. It took so long to get the drivers in that they replaced the whole setup in the studio. This left the shop with a pair of tannoys newly repaired on the shelf. There they sat for years. I've been 'popping in' for a while now and then to make an offer on 'em. There WILL be a sub. This is going to be integrated with a HT setup and size does matter here. I'm thinking open baffle unless it gets shot down hard. If not Open baffle...then what should it be ?? How about the x-over freq and slope? Does anyone know if the hf and lf sections have drastically different sensitivities? Are you suggesting that a ~30 wpc "pass gizmo" dedicated to the woofers not being asked to handle ~60hz down will not be adequate? (I don't think gizmo is the best classification for the aleph
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Zevenbergen
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Quote:
You can use the data of the top half of the page to calculate your cabinet. No sure what to do with the data at the bottom though. Please note that these data are from SRM12 not SGM12. I'm not certain if they are the same. BTW there's a nice Tannoy group on Yahoo: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tannoy/ You can also ask Tannoy UK. They're very helpful. Kind Regards, Vincent |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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Thanks,
I was inder the impression (??) that the driver used in the sgm12 was the srm12 Thanks, Marc
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