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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mangalore, Karnataka State, India
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Could anybody care to share opinion/experience on the feasibility/advisability of using tri-axial automobile speakers (say, 13/24 cms) for a small room (10/11 square feet)?
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#2 |
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On Hiatus
Join Date: Nov 2002
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I am in favour of 2-way with center mount tweeter.
I have a pair Pioneer with 4" woofer. Would have liked 5", but the shop had them not. Have not built any boxes. I have no idea what size I should build. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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10 sq. ft. awfu small aint it?
i would guess that at that point a pair of 5" coaxial full ranges that planet10 talks about shoud do. one idea would be in wall mounting are the walls brink? can you make a cabinet by making a hole in the wall. i did something like this to a bathroom. stuck in a pair or relatively weather proof (read as rubber surround, shielded, pastic cone) 4" full range drivers and used plastic grills from an automobile speaker for protection.
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...still looking for the holy grail. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Quebec City
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I did the same thing with old but very good 7'' x 10'' speakers. See picture. The box is 75% filled with accoustic wool used for house. The bad thing with these drivers is that it is impossible to measure the T/S parameters with a software since all the 3 ways are connected together internally.
4 ohms, 240W, carbon fiber, built-in crossover.
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Imagination is more important than knowledge. knowledge is limited, imagination encircles the world. Albert Einstein FrankDIY's Audio Corner |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: US - Kentucky
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I am using a pair of 10cm two-way car speakers. The tweeter was originally mounted over the woofer, I took it offand mounted it just above the the 'woofer'. It has an internal crossover and works great. They are not particularly efficient and even on a cheap stereo (maybe 10W low quality) they fill a decent sized room with sound. I was fortunate and found some T/S numbers for these and ended up with a box about 3-4L and a really small port. Worked out great for me.
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First Audio... Then the darkness control knob on my toaster |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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If you look closely and are carefull you can usually change the bi-polar electrolytic caps to polypropylene (PP) ones.
You may also want to change values to fine tune your sound. Mount these into a reasonable size box and they should be fine. The box is 75% filled with accoustic wool used for house. DO NOT EVER USE FIBREGLASS WOOL as damping material. The fibres are dangerous and irritant, and still get out of the box no matter what you do. Polyester wool, sheeps wool and foam rubber are fine. Good luck, Eric. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Quebec City
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It is a sealed box (because my drivers were "free air") and I did not use fiberglass. It is a non-toxic material but I don't remember the real name. It is for the ceilling. It is the kind of stuff that you need a blower.
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Imagination is more important than knowledge. knowledge is limited, imagination encircles the world. Albert Einstein FrankDIY's Audio Corner |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mangalore, Karnataka State, India
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Thanks, all forum members.
Firstly, let me correct a small mistake -- the room size is not 10 Sq Ft, it is 10X11 (110 Sq Ft) Room area besides, I would like to know something about the following: 1. The order of crossover (is it 1st, 2nd, or 3rd order) 2. Is it true that these bi- and triaxial speakers use only bipolar caps as crossover elements? Are these bipolar caps used in conjunction with the inductance of the loudspeaker coild? 3. Can individual drivers in a triax assembly be taken apart and mounted separately (as one reply suggests)? Thanks, all good samaritans. |
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#9 | |
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On Hiatus
Join Date: Nov 2002
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Quote:
-if you mean what is in a bought speaker, it is 90% probable 1st order, and a first order is just a Cap. -if you mean what you should try, there is no rule it depends on the data of the element 3. That thing you will have to find out. "evereything put together, sooner or later falls apart" Some may be put together that it is possible to take them apart, without hurting the things. The easy thing, mostly, would be just to change the CAP. As suggested. I think, myself, that there is not much to gain by separating the elements. The engineers who designed them, can not be all that bad. |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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If you haven't already gotten a triaxial, i'd suggest a coaxial or a full-range. Triaxials are really just marketing animals. They aren't woofer, mid, tweeter, but almost FR, tweeter, super tweeter with XOs on the order of 8 & 12k. The XO is just a single bipolar cap.
So if you get a coax have a good look at it and make sure you can get at and change the XO cap. A better cap (and sometimes a different value) are waranted. Some of the FR units are real sleepers. There is a Delco (General Motors -- factory installed) 6x9 4 ohm whizzer cone (not the 10 ohm unit -- it isn't too bad either thou) unit that is outstanding. You find these at garage sales for $2-5/pr and you just laugh all the way home because you know the guy replaced them with couple hundred buck triaxials and he just doesn't seem to get as much out of his carFi as before dave
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