hello
I'm getting a nice deal on the Scan Speak Revelator tweeter and the Scan Speak 8545K middel/woofer.
But I'm missing a design to use the drivers in. I'm looking for a monitor design.
The Scan Speak Reference Monitor (http://www.audiocomponents.nl/speakers/scanspeak/scan-speak_eng.htm) is quite close, but it uses the 8546 middel/woofer.
Any help would be appreciated!
best regards TEK
I'm getting a nice deal on the Scan Speak Revelator tweeter and the Scan Speak 8545K middel/woofer.
But I'm missing a design to use the drivers in. I'm looking for a monitor design.
The Scan Speak Reference Monitor (http://www.audiocomponents.nl/speakers/scanspeak/scan-speak_eng.htm) is quite close, but it uses the 8546 middel/woofer.
Any help would be appreciated!
best regards TEK
Hello,
I remember seeing a design made by that guy Vance Dickason? the writer of those speaker cookbook series.
It was based on the 2 drivers you mention in a small monitor.
The kit was sold by partsexpress, and they also had the crossover published on the site, perhaps i have it somewhere in my computer.
/kasra
I remember seeing a design made by that guy Vance Dickason? the writer of those speaker cookbook series.
It was based on the 2 drivers you mention in a small monitor.
The kit was sold by partsexpress, and they also had the crossover published on the site, perhaps i have it somewhere in my computer.
/kasra
I have tried the Dickason's Xover for 8545K+9900. Don't use it! My DIY supplier said to me that it couldn't work fine. I have not trust him and bought premium crossover parts. Shame on me.
There is a big hole at the xover point and no imaging at all.
Now, I have a pair of 8545K and 9900 revelator to design a brand new speaker.
Perhaps, could we share our work?
cyclo
There is a big hole at the xover point and no imaging at all.
Now, I have a pair of 8545K and 9900 revelator to design a brand new speaker.
Perhaps, could we share our work?
cyclo
Thanks for your feedback. To bad that Dickason doesnt work to good.
What about using the Scan-Speak reference monitor desigh (http://www.audiocomponents.nl/speak...n-speak_eng.htm)
Would it be possible to just do some minor adjustments on the crossover, but keep the volume and element alignment?
I have no experience in cross over design what so ever, so I really need a complete and tested design.
I would be more than happy to share the design or any other information I'm able to get.
regards TEK
What about using the Scan-Speak reference monitor desigh (http://www.audiocomponents.nl/speak...n-speak_eng.htm)
Would it be possible to just do some minor adjustments on the crossover, but keep the volume and element alignment?
I have no experience in cross over design what so ever, so I really need a complete and tested design.
I would be more than happy to share the design or any other information I'm able to get.
regards TEK
ok lets make this simple.
a lot of what i say depends on taste.
for the woofer keep the 10uf and try 1.5mh instead of 2.2uf
for the tweeter you can reduce L to about 0.7mh thought 0.82 will work fine and experiment with c from 3.3uf to 6.8uf.
i woudl make one change at a time. 1st change L1 to 1.5mh. if it is not forward enough change C to 4.7uf and if you still want more 6.8uf.
lastly the l pad i use is Rs=4ohms and Rp = 10ohms. most of my friends find this a bit laid back so you can adjust Rs to taste note that it changes the XO point too.
i would get a bunch of caps and resistors and maybe a few inductors and start playing. listen for atleast 2 days between changes. stick to 3 or 4 good recordings that cover acoustic, rock, blues, jazz and any other music you like.
hope this helps. As implied in my 1st post this Xo is good starting point. also i'd like to correct myself i used the 8546 with the 9500 not 9700.
enjoy this hobby if you get frustrated chill for a while and start when fresh it can be very infuriating chasing the holy grail.
a lot of what i say depends on taste.
for the woofer keep the 10uf and try 1.5mh instead of 2.2uf
for the tweeter you can reduce L to about 0.7mh thought 0.82 will work fine and experiment with c from 3.3uf to 6.8uf.
i woudl make one change at a time. 1st change L1 to 1.5mh. if it is not forward enough change C to 4.7uf and if you still want more 6.8uf.
lastly the l pad i use is Rs=4ohms and Rp = 10ohms. most of my friends find this a bit laid back so you can adjust Rs to taste note that it changes the XO point too.
i would get a bunch of caps and resistors and maybe a few inductors and start playing. listen for atleast 2 days between changes. stick to 3 or 4 good recordings that cover acoustic, rock, blues, jazz and any other music you like.
hope this helps. As implied in my 1st post this Xo is good starting point. also i'd like to correct myself i used the 8546 with the 9500 not 9700.
enjoy this hobby if you get frustrated chill for a while and start when fresh it can be very infuriating chasing the holy grail.
Cross over design SW
I came back to speaker design some time ago, and I needed some tools and more knowledge.
If you have some background with electronic components, you should try the free amazing design tools that are on the FRD Consortium web site..
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/frdgroup.htm
They have everything necessary to build any speakers.
Vance Dickanson book is quite good to show you how to use the computer design tools. Some things that I learned that make quite a difference:
- The format of the final speaker matters and a LOT. You would be surprised to see how it impacts the end design. Try something like a ProAc (small) or go for beveled as in the Geers Eve - easy and with good principles;
- Crossovers vary with the distance of the speakers - specially on the depth. If you are using a design, copy EVERYTHING
- If you see a design for modified speakers, there is a good chance that they will not work for you. Modified speakers have very different characteristcs from regular ones - I have heard a lot of comments on cloning ProAcs that do not work even with the same components
- If you use a crossover building tool, select a 4th order Linkwitz-Riley for both high-pass and low-pass; you may end up with some more components, but it will minimize the problems with the depth of the speakers (or as they say on the lingo, to correct the time delay)
Hope that helps.
I came back to speaker design some time ago, and I needed some tools and more knowledge.
If you have some background with electronic components, you should try the free amazing design tools that are on the FRD Consortium web site..
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/frdgroup.htm
They have everything necessary to build any speakers.
Vance Dickanson book is quite good to show you how to use the computer design tools. Some things that I learned that make quite a difference:
- The format of the final speaker matters and a LOT. You would be surprised to see how it impacts the end design. Try something like a ProAc (small) or go for beveled as in the Geers Eve - easy and with good principles;
- Crossovers vary with the distance of the speakers - specially on the depth. If you are using a design, copy EVERYTHING
- If you see a design for modified speakers, there is a good chance that they will not work for you. Modified speakers have very different characteristcs from regular ones - I have heard a lot of comments on cloning ProAcs that do not work even with the same components
- If you use a crossover building tool, select a 4th order Linkwitz-Riley for both high-pass and low-pass; you may end up with some more components, but it will minimize the problems with the depth of the speakers (or as they say on the lingo, to correct the time delay)
Hope that helps.
Hello,
I'm gonna build the reference monitor (i already got the units en components). Ik just hate the "boxy"design!
Because i live in holland it is easy to call the designer, so i did. Rolph explains everything in very easy, understanding lingo; "no is no problem to give the baffle a negative angle", "no it's not a problem to make some facet's around the speakers, it is in fact better than the original desing because its minimizes the diffraction" etc etc etc.
After 10 question i thanked the helpfull man on the other end of the line and continued making drawings for the cabinet.
If its not for me a problem to call him, why should it for you???. C'mon, just call him what must be done to make the 5845 work!
He speaks englisch ...
succes
Wowly
I'm gonna build the reference monitor (i already got the units en components). Ik just hate the "boxy"design!
Because i live in holland it is easy to call the designer, so i did. Rolph explains everything in very easy, understanding lingo; "no is no problem to give the baffle a negative angle", "no it's not a problem to make some facet's around the speakers, it is in fact better than the original desing because its minimizes the diffraction" etc etc etc.
After 10 question i thanked the helpfull man on the other end of the line and continued making drawings for the cabinet.
If its not for me a problem to call him, why should it for you???. C'mon, just call him what must be done to make the 5845 work!
He speaks englisch ...
succes
Wowly
http://www.audiocomponents.nl/
bottom of the page
Of bedoel je het mijne Kurt?, stuur dan effekens een persoonlijk berichtje oke?
bottom of the page
Of bedoel je het mijne Kurt?, stuur dan effekens een persoonlijk berichtje oke?
northcreek
The Nort creek Borealis uses the 1845 and the 1846.
Read the story.
"The 8546 offers superior resolution in the upper midrange over the 8545, but is also less romantic. We generally recommend the 8546 for those using tube electronics throughout, and the 8545 for solid state and solid state/tube systems."
http://www.northcreekmusic.com/NorthCreekKits.html
They sell cross overs.
Peter
The Nort creek Borealis uses the 1845 and the 1846.
Read the story.
"The 8546 offers superior resolution in the upper midrange over the 8545, but is also less romantic. We generally recommend the 8546 for those using tube electronics throughout, and the 8545 for solid state and solid state/tube systems."
http://www.northcreekmusic.com/NorthCreekKits.html
They sell cross overs.
Peter
TEK said:
The Parts Express site contains tons of info but terrible navigation. Even though I knew this was on the site, I couldn't find it. In the end I had to use Google.
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/diy/vance/ldc6kit.html
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.