crossover cap

Ahmad_tbp · 27th February 2006, 06:04 AM

hi ,
can i use a 2.2uf 50 v cap instead of a 2.2uf 50 v BIPOLAR cap in my speaker crossover ? cuz i couldn t find a 2.2uf bipolar .

simon5 · 27th February 2006, 06:28 AM

You absolutely need a bipolar cap, because the signal is AC not DC.

If you can't find a bipolar cap, buy two polarized capacitors of 4.4 uf 50V each. Then, connect both (+) terminals together.

You've now made a bipolar 2.2 uf 50V capacitor. You're left with two (-) terminals, but now it doesn't matter because it's now bipolar.

Ahmad_tbp · 27th February 2006, 07:51 AM

hi simon , how r u ? thnx a lot ,
can u remember me ? ( subwoofer thread )

badman · 27th February 2006, 02:24 PM

Why bother with electrolytics for such a tiny value? Lots of 2.2uF film caps available...

acoustixman · 27th February 2006, 03:02 PM

Check out BENNIC Film+Foil Caps at Madisound (dot com). Good prices, high quality product. Much success on my bench with these... While you're at it they have all the rest of the xover stuff too.

Also Parts Express with selection of Dayton F+F caps (similar to Bennic in price and quality IMO).

Both vendors also have Solen Caps which are still more highly reputed, but I have only used the "bargain" brands above (and am perfectly happy with them).

I would recommend only using electrolytics when you can't get a high enough value (higher than about 12-20 uF) or small enough package out of a poly cap, and NEVER in high frequency sections. Too much ESR (equivalent series resistance - acts like resistor when "passing" high frequency).

Electrolytics and tantalums are the only ones (that I know of) where polarity is an issue. Your question about bipolars is moot when using poly caps (film and foil or metallized film types).

Happy tweaking!

acoustixman · 27th February 2006, 03:55 PM

I realize I have sort of skipped over the issue of getting stuff shipped to non-US destinations with these vendors, but I'd be shocked if they can't accomodate these days...

Ahmad_tbp · 27th February 2006, 05:54 PM

.. it s exactly the cab for high freqs that goin to tweeter

.. i couldn t find any bipolar here

just 10 uf bipolar ... wat should i do ?
unfortunately there s no stie that support my country for shippin .

acoustixman · 27th February 2006, 07:01 PM

See post #2; that's your best remaining alternative. Make sure to hook "anti-series" ((+) on one to (+) on other) Use equal values. Final bipolar value = either cap divided by 2. Insulate and ignore the now-joined (+) terminals.

Like I said, I'm shocked that you can't get stuff shipped to anywhere in the world these days! Bummer.

Cloth Ears · 27th February 2006, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by acoustixman
Like I said, I'm shocked that you can't get stuff shipped to anywhere in the world these days! Bummer.

acoustixman,

You can get stuff shipped to any where... except when you're on GWB's "****-list". And Iran is one of those places.

Ahmad,

Have you tried other countries like Egypt or Indonesia? You might find shipping support from there. Else, if you know of any friends or relatives in the US or Australia. Companies tend to have to follow their governments' foreign policy, unless they want to risk prosecution - take our Australian Wheat Board (please

) for example.

simon5 · 27th February 2006, 10:19 PM

Yes I remember you Ahmad ! Hehe!

Did you finally make a bass cab?

27th February 2006, 06:04 AM	#1
Ahmad_tbp diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Kayseri/Turkey	crossover cap hi , can i use a 2.2uf 50 v cap instead of a 2.2uf 50 v BIPOLAR cap in my speaker crossover ? cuz i couldn t find a 2.2uf bipolar . __________________ Marge, don't discourage the boy! Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals! Except the weasel.

27th February 2006, 07:51 AM	#3
Ahmad_tbp diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Kayseri/Turkey	hi simon , how r u ? thnx a lot , can u remember me ? ( subwoofer thread ) __________________ Marge, don't discourage the boy! Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals! Except the weasel.

27th February 2006, 02:24 PM	#4
badman diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal	Why bother with electrolytics for such a tiny value? Lots of 2.2uF film caps available... __________________ I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned!

27th February 2006, 05:54 PM	#7
Ahmad_tbp diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Kayseri/Turkey	.. it s exactly the cab for high freqs that goin to tweeter .. i couldn t find any bipolar here just 10 uf bipolar ... wat should i do ? unfortunately there s no stie that support my country for shippin . __________________ Marge, don't discourage the boy! Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals! Except the weasel.

27th February 2006, 10:19 PM	#10
simon5 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Québec, Québec	Yes I remember you Ahmad ! Hehe! Did you finally make a bass cab? __________________ DIYaudio for President !


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27th February 2006, 06:28 AM	#2
simon5 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Québec, Québec	You absolutely need a bipolar cap, because the signal is AC not DC. If you can't find a bipolar cap, buy two polarized capacitors of 4.4 uf 50V each. Then, connect both (+) terminals together. You've now made a bipolar 2.2 uf 50V capacitor. You're left with two (-) terminals, but now it doesn't matter because it's now bipolar. __________________ DIYaudio for President !

27th February 2006, 03:02 PM	#5
acoustixman diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Boulder City, Nevada	Check out BENNIC Film+Foil Caps at Madisound (dot com). Good prices, high quality product. Much success on my bench with these... While you're at it they have all the rest of the xover stuff too. Also Parts Express with selection of Dayton F+F caps (similar to Bennic in price and quality IMO). Both vendors also have Solen Caps which are still more highly reputed, but I have only used the "bargain" brands above (and am perfectly happy with them). I would recommend only using electrolytics when you can't get a high enough value (higher than about 12-20 uF) or small enough package out of a poly cap, and NEVER in high frequency sections. Too much ESR (equivalent series resistance - acts like resistor when "passing" high frequency). Electrolytics and tantalums are the only ones (that I know of) where polarity is an issue. Your question about bipolars is moot when using poly caps (film and foil or metallized film types). Happy tweaking!

27th February 2006, 03:55 PM	#6
acoustixman diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Boulder City, Nevada	I realize I have sort of skipped over the issue of getting stuff shipped to non-US destinations with these vendors, but I'd be shocked if they can't accomodate these days...

27th February 2006, 07:01 PM	#8
acoustixman diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Boulder City, Nevada	See post #2; that's your best remaining alternative. Make sure to hook "anti-series" ((+) on one to (+) on other) Use equal values. Final bipolar value = either cap divided by 2. Insulate and ignore the now-joined (+) terminals. Like I said, I'm shocked that you can't get stuff shipped to anywhere in the world these days! Bummer.

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