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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 20th February 2006, 11:23 PM   #1
rv1890 is offline rv1890  Armenia
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Default check my crossover

Ready to build my x-over. can u guys check it for me please. The inductor on the right will be standing vertically. The design is from Zaphs Seas l18. Theres a pic of the schematic down there also if that helps.

Thanks guys.
Thanks Zaph.
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Old 20th February 2006, 11:24 PM   #2
rv1890 is offline rv1890  Armenia
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schematic from web site.
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Old 20th February 2006, 11:33 PM   #3
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You need to use bigger wattage resistors...but it look fine!
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Old 20th February 2006, 11:35 PM   #4
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You might connect tweeter 'out of phase'. This is common thing with secound order crossover
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Old 21st February 2006, 06:30 PM   #5
jomor is offline jomor  Greece
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Quote:
Originally posted by darkfenriz

You might connect tweeter 'out of phase'. This is common thing with secound order crossover

reversing the tweeter's polarity in second order crossovers stands only for ideal elements and typical filter applications and only when the drivers' acoustic centers' offset is zero (which is almost never the case).
Only a measurement (which includes both magnitude and phase data ) or an accurate simulation will determine the correct tweeter's polarity.
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Old 22nd February 2006, 03:14 PM   #6
Zaph is offline Zaph  United States
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Note: the L18/27TBFCG is a 4th order system. It has 360 degrees of phase wrap through the crossover. Therefore, both drivers should be hooked up in phase, with the negatives going to ground.

In regards to your other post which I just read, it might be a little hard to use a copper clad plate to mount the crossover on. While it might make it easy to connect all the grounds, there is quite a lot of danger with contact by the positive side of components. Normally, a 1/4" board is the best unless you are doing actual copper etching.
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Old 22nd February 2006, 06:24 PM   #7
rv1890 is offline rv1890  Armenia
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thanks guys. appreciate the help and information. I think im going to use the copper board, but isulate the leads with plenty of heat shrink and hot glue grommets in between the holes. as far as being out of phase thats nothin more than switching polarity. so worst case scenario ill just change the polarity. Im going to take zaphs advice and im sure i wont have to worry about it. cant wait to post more pics when the whole thing is done. thanks so far guys.
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Old 23rd February 2006, 06:45 PM   #8
rv1890 is offline rv1890  Armenia
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Default tweeter volume

I just completed my crossover, and decided to run a quick test before final assembly. I hooked up the crossover to my parents fairly old amplifier and played just regular radio music through themat low volume. They both play and the crossover seems to work. The only problem is that the tweeter volume seems very low. I couldnt even hear the tweeter without unplugging the woofer.even with the amp turned up a bit I can hardly hear the tweeter. it does play though. i tried my other tweeter also just to be sure, and the same thing. Now is this design supposed to be like this, or do i need to change something on the x-over to get some more volume and brightness out of the tweeter?
thanks.
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Old 23rd February 2006, 08:41 PM   #9
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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well you cant hear your tweeter, and I bet you have no midrange either - 2.2mH in series with woof/midrange seems way too big

And your padding consists of 4R in series and 3R3 in parallel

Very od values - seems to me there is a mistake

Your layout is a bit confused - there seems to be a notch filter but without resistor

You should make your layout neat and tidy so that it looks like schematic - could save you from doing errors
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Old 23rd February 2006, 10:38 PM   #10
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2.2 mH in series with the woofer isn't that unusual. My floor standers have a 2.2mH in series with the 18W/8531G00 woofers. You need a fairly large value to give adequate baffle step compensation.

The H1224 (L18RNX/P) is 8 ohm so 2.2mH sounds about right.

Anyway, Zaph knows his stuff, so the crossover design isn't at fault.

Notch filters without resistors aren't unusual either, especially when dealing with cone break-up, and according to my sums the notch filter is tuned to ~7300 Hz which is where the major break-up on the H1224 occurs.
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