I've just cooked my 18 year-old Tannoy Oxford's bass. It's a 10" (or 8" ?? the hole is 9" in the enclosure) driver. The enclosure has a paper port. Can I simply buy a bass driver of same size to replace it? Do I have to consider the port size and length? Anything I have to pay attention to in such replacement? Any recommendation on the driver? Any where I can read about such replacement myself?
Since the hole is 9" wide, it's probably a 10" unit.
Yes you should take into account box internal net size, port length and port diameter.
If you can get the T/S parameters of your old bass driver, you could replace it with a bass driver with similar parameters. If you can't, with the box size, port length and port diameter, we can suggest you something to replace it.
If you can't find a similar driver, I suggest you to buy a pair of newer drivers, even if you only destroyed one.
Yes you should take into account box internal net size, port length and port diameter.
If you can get the T/S parameters of your old bass driver, you could replace it with a bass driver with similar parameters. If you can't, with the box size, port length and port diameter, we can suggest you something to replace it.
If you can't find a similar driver, I suggest you to buy a pair of newer drivers, even if you only destroyed one.
Contact Lockwood Audio about reconing your drivers (or for the parts to DIY). Well worth doing, and much cheaper than relacing your speakers with anything of similar quality.
Apart from the fact that the drivers are of a unique design, the TS parameters of the bass units would be difficult to match even if you considered using seperate tweeters.
Apart from the fact that the drivers are of a unique design, the TS parameters of the bass units would be difficult to match even if you considered using seperate tweeters.
senderj said:
sreten said:
or
dnsey said:
or completely replace with something like :
http://www.adireaudio.com/Home/KITHE10-1.htm
model your box and the Beta 10CX in WinISD.
/sreten.So it's a 33.39 liters box tuned to 42.12 Hz.
You'd need a 10 inches driver that would do well in that enclosure.
Since the crossover is so high, you need a good 10 inches driver. Maybe John from Acoustic Elegance could manufacture something worth it like a Lambda TDX or something.
To complement the bass driver at the 4 kHz crossover, I'd use a Seas 27TBFC/G or 27TDFC.
You could also upgrade the crossovers to better parts at the same time, like air core coils and polypropylene capacitors. You could also lower the crossover to have more choice in the 10 inches market.
Does someone knows a 10 inches driver that would do well in 33 liters (1.2 cu.ft) tuned to 42 Hz ?
You'd need a 10 inches driver that would do well in that enclosure.
Since the crossover is so high, you need a good 10 inches driver. Maybe John from Acoustic Elegance could manufacture something worth it like a Lambda TDX or something.
To complement the bass driver at the 4 kHz crossover, I'd use a Seas 27TBFC/G or 27TDFC.
You could also upgrade the crossovers to better parts at the same time, like air core coils and polypropylene capacitors. You could also lower the crossover to have more choice in the 10 inches market.
Does someone knows a 10 inches driver that would do well in 33 liters (1.2 cu.ft) tuned to 42 Hz ?
Thanks for the calculation. I did some search but looks like it is difficult to find a replacement. First of all, there is no more 10" mid-bass. All 10" driver nowadays are woofer up to 1kHz only (some even up to 600Hz only). Secondly, the crossover of my Tannoy is 4kHz. But most drivers available in the market are designed for 2-2.2kHz crossover.
If I replace the crossover, it may not match with the remaining tweeters, which I don't know the parameters. Seems I have to replace the whole speaker instead. If anybody know about any 10" mid-bass that covers up to 4kHz please let me know. Thanks in advance.
If I replace the crossover, it may not match with the remaining tweeters, which I don't know the parameters. Seems I have to replace the whole speaker instead. If anybody know about any 10" mid-bass that covers up to 4kHz please let me know. Thanks in advance.
Hi,
I don't have Tannoy Oxford data to hand but your crossover is not @ 4kHz.
I think it is more likely to be between 1200Hz and 2kHz.
However, the crossover frequency is completely irrelevant. If you change the bass/mid driver, you throw away the treble unit as well.
Your dual concentric Oxfords, even damaged, are worth more than replacement drive units for a new speaker assembly.
Make a decision, either keep and repair the TANNOYS or sell them and buy/assemble new speakers.
I don't have Tannoy Oxford data to hand but your crossover is not @ 4kHz.
I think it is more likely to be between 1200Hz and 2kHz.
However, the crossover frequency is completely irrelevant. If you change the bass/mid driver, you throw away the treble unit as well.
Your dual concentric Oxfords, even damaged, are worth more than replacement drive units for a new speaker assembly.
Make a decision, either keep and repair the TANNOYS or sell them and buy/assemble new speakers.
AndrewT said:
Hi,
I think AT is confusing various types of tannoy concentrics.
The old style 10" paper bass / 2" rear treble diaphragm are sought after.
The later 10" plastic bass / 3/4" centre mounted waveguide much less so.
The c/o frequencies for the two types differs considerably.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/tunnelgap/Tannoy/modelarchive.html
/sreten.
To set the record straight!
Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I wanted to add to it to set the record straight. It seems that some people here give wrong advice & really don't know what they're talking about!
The Tannoy Oxford IS NOT Dual Concentric!
The "Oxford" T-125 model was manufactured from 1978-1981. There were 3 subsequent versions all sharing similar drive units & layout.
Recommended Amplifier power: 10-100 watts RMS
Peak Power handling: 150 watts
Impedance: 8 ohm
Efficiency: 93 dB
Crossover: 4 kHz
Response: 50 - 20000 Hz
Design: ducted Port
Woofer : 10” polyolefin cone
Tweeter: horn-loaded compression driver
Size: 22” x 13” x 10.5” deep
Weight: 27 pounds
Above copied from elsewhere but is accurate. How do I know? I have a pair!
Anyway, I found this thread searching for info on crossover schematic & component values for this model as mine have been 'modified', ie messed-up! So if anyone could help I'd be really grateful please!
Tyron
Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I wanted to add to it to set the record straight. It seems that some people here give wrong advice & really don't know what they're talking about!
The Tannoy Oxford IS NOT Dual Concentric! The "Oxford" T-125 model was manufactured from 1978-1981. There were 3 subsequent versions all sharing similar drive units & layout.
Recommended Amplifier power: 10-100 watts RMS
Peak Power handling: 150 watts
Impedance: 8 ohm
Efficiency: 93 dB
Crossover: 4 kHz
Response: 50 - 20000 Hz
Design: ducted Port
Woofer : 10” polyolefin cone
Tweeter: horn-loaded compression driver
Size: 22” x 13” x 10.5” deep
Weight: 27 pounds
Above copied from elsewhere but is accurate. How do I know? I have a pair!
Anyway, I found this thread searching for info on crossover schematic & component values for this model as mine have been 'modified', ie messed-up! So if anyone could help I'd be really grateful please!
Tyron
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planet10 said:
They are not concentric but even so I agree that a cone replacement is by far the best solution
I used to own a pair of Oxfords T-125 long ago and found this thread was quite confusing until Tyron's post restored some coherence
Senderj, I don't think you could find a suitable replacement driver unless you happen to find an exact match that came off of another Oxford. If you replace it with a different driver you will have to replace the driver on both speakers and tinker with the crossover since the original was designed to work with this specific driver. If I recall well Tannoy used a proprietary driver which has no generic equivalent on the market.
I'm not familiar with Hong Kong but I would be surprised if you couldn't find a shop that'd be able to replace the cone with the proper part. This should restore the driver to like-new condition.
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