|13th February 2006, 05:38 AM||#21|
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
Supra and Van Damme OFC appear braoadly similar; the price of Swedish Supra here in Oz and VD in the UK is very similar too, but oícourse with freight the Supra is less A$.
To fulfil my megalomaniac multiple active class A/ tube amp system dreams I need about 25 pairs, so I think Iíll go for Supra Rondo 4*2.5 http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...eMax=&SUBCATID (4 x 322 strands). More than 75 m, A$ 6.25 per m = US$ 2.60 per foot.
Thatís not much more than Belden 89259 at Percy, and less than Cardas Crosslink four conductor 120 strand at US $3.50 per foot.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
|13th February 2006, 06:57 AM||#22|
Join Date: Mar 2004
solid core cable?
I use this kind of cable...
I bought a roll of 1.5mm solid core industrial electrical cable.
For one channel, each: cut a length of my need x 2. Twist them together... tightly... then untwist them... (so that they become single core curly cable)... then I use one curly core for (+) and the other curly one for the (-)... from amp to speaker...
I don't know the theory behind... but they sounds good...
Previously, the same cable, I use straight (not curly)... sounds dull. The same when I use them twisted (not yet untwisted)... sounds dull too... so my founding above is an accidental found actually... :-)
It is surely cheap... I bought a roll of 100 feet cable for $6
How good is it?... better than my Supra 4.0 Classic.... :-)
|13th February 2006, 03:03 PM||#23|
Join Date: Mar 2005
Some wires do sound different to others. But this is down to their basic electrical properties, and their interaction with your system, and you are best approaching it with a specific goal in mind. To provide a personal example, I usually use 12AWG zip cord with most of my systems. However, my big, Terry Cain design folded rear-corner horns, which I regularly hook up, with their extremely sensitive Fostex FF165K full-range drivers would be massively over-damped by my SS amp unless I did something to prevent that from occuring. I could buy a low damping factor amp. I take the cheap route: I just use 30AWG magnet wire. The additional series resistance brings the bass, which would otherwise vanish, nicely into line. I could add a resistor instead to my usual wire, I just took the easy way out.
JR's cables do have a good reputation, though Rod Eliot if memory serves shows in one of his articles they don't quite match Jon's performance claims. Still not bad though and probably worth a shot. I'll stick with my zip cord or studio stuff generally though. It's already passed through it after all.
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