bbaker6212 said:
This is a good question for the guys on the Full Range Forum
I'd love to try it (anyone like to donate some FE108s?). ChrisB and i have puzzlecoated some FE103As with good results (damps the cone and reduces reflections back thru the cone from inside the cabinet). We didn't have as good luck with dammar, but there were extenuating circumstances.
Frank -- dammar is an artist's resin/varnish.
dave
CONE COATING
Hi,
Back in the mid eighties I remember when I was at the SD Acoustics factory after the Penta Show in London.
To kill off too much time on our hands Steen asked me to lend a hand coating a few speakerunits for him.
He handed over a jar with a white woodglue lookalike compound and a painting brush.
He had made something like a potters wheel with a metal topplate so you could spin that iso moving yourself around the speaker.
All went well at first but after a couple of speakers the brush must have caught too much compound.
When I'd finished I realized I'd overdone that speaker and brought it to Steens' attention.
He came over,had a look at my lousy paintjob, sighed and in his typical manner said:"Well if you can mock up another one like that I can at least send a set off to Taiwan,can't I?
That left me both ashamed and speechless.
Anyway the compound used was sourced from Dunlop (the tire company) and was based on butyl.
When exposed to air the white colour turns to black.
Steen applied this to woofers and to the big Audax mid he was using for the SD1.
It helped to reduce cone break-up and slightly reduced effeciency due to the extra weight.
The set I had mocked must have lost quite a bit more efficiency though.
Comparing them for sound differences I can only confirm that the dif was not subtle,the treated cones sounded much more even and better behaved.
I found a source for that but there must be several others in the speakerkit business selling similar treatment products.
Just don't overdo it as I did.
http://www.lordadhesives.com/loudspeaker/Santoprene_news.asp
Cheers,
Hi,
Back in the mid eighties I remember when I was at the SD Acoustics factory after the Penta Show in London.
To kill off too much time on our hands Steen asked me to lend a hand coating a few speakerunits for him.
He handed over a jar with a white woodglue lookalike compound and a painting brush.
He had made something like a potters wheel with a metal topplate so you could spin that iso moving yourself around the speaker.
All went well at first but after a couple of speakers the brush must have caught too much compound.
When I'd finished I realized I'd overdone that speaker and brought it to Steens' attention.
He came over,had a look at my lousy paintjob, sighed and in his typical manner said:"Well if you can mock up another one like that I can at least send a set off to Taiwan,can't I?
That left me both ashamed and speechless.
Anyway the compound used was sourced from Dunlop (the tire company) and was based on butyl.
When exposed to air the white colour turns to black.
Steen applied this to woofers and to the big Audax mid he was using for the SD1.
It helped to reduce cone break-up and slightly reduced effeciency due to the extra weight.
The set I had mocked must have lost quite a bit more efficiency though.
Comparing them for sound differences I can only confirm that the dif was not subtle,the treated cones sounded much more even and better behaved.
I found a source for that but there must be several others in the speakerkit business selling similar treatment products.
Just don't overdo it as I did.
http://www.lordadhesives.com/loudspeaker/Santoprene_news.asp
Cheers,
ASK JEEVES
Hi,
The magic stuff KEF used was called PLASTIFLEX
This is a Canadian company and you can pay them a visit at:
www.plastiflex.com/
Happy hunting,
Hi,
The magic stuff KEF used was called PLASTIFLEX
This is a Canadian company and you can pay them a visit at:
www.plastiflex.com/
Happy hunting,
mrfeedback said:
Puzzlecoat is a PVA based substance similar to wood glue. I've been using it for 25 years+ with great success -- unless like fdegrove you put on too much.
dave
CLOAKING THE COAT
Hi,
Is any of you familiar with this particular coating compound?
RADIAL is an injection-molded composite of a polymer with hollow glass microspheres embedded in it. The RADIAL patent explains that the key is to treat the surface of the microspheres so that they bond to the polymer. If this is done properly, the result is a light-weight but stiff material with optimum loss. Theoretically, it performs well as an absorber of unwanted excess acoustic energy while not suppressing minute sonic information.
A direct comparison of the drivers made of these two materials as implemented in Spendors and Harbeths definitely confirms the superior speed, energy, and detail of RADIAL. While the Harbeth 7 and 30 and the Spendor SP1/2 are all audibly flat through the heart of the midrange, the Harbeths simply have more to say about the performance of the music. There is more detail and the detail is more interesting, exciting, and engaging. It tends to specify whereas polypropylene tends to generalize and homogenize a bit.
Thx,
Hi,
Is any of you familiar with this particular coating compound?
RADIAL is an injection-molded composite of a polymer with hollow glass microspheres embedded in it. The RADIAL patent explains that the key is to treat the surface of the microspheres so that they bond to the polymer. If this is done properly, the result is a light-weight but stiff material with optimum loss. Theoretically, it performs well as an absorber of unwanted excess acoustic energy while not suppressing minute sonic information.
A direct comparison of the drivers made of these two materials as implemented in Spendors and Harbeths definitely confirms the superior speed, energy, and detail of RADIAL. While the Harbeth 7 and 30 and the Spendor SP1/2 are all audibly flat through the heart of the midrange, the Harbeths simply have more to say about the performance of the music. There is more detail and the detail is more interesting, exciting, and engaging. It tends to specify whereas polypropylene tends to generalize and homogenize a bit.
Thx,
Hi,
I have treated my fe164's with dammar . I bought those fostexs 6 years ago and built "jericho" horns for them. I never really get to like them though, so I gave horns to a friend and put drivers in garage . About year ago inspired with some Supravox drivers I decided to give them another try. This time I mounted them in 25 lit "onken"-style box. But again they were (to me) to coloured (agressive and fuzzy) to listen. Then I cut off the wizzer cone - better: more linear (I have Clio measuring system) but with narrow dip at ca. 3kHz that wasn't there in extreme nearfield measurment (1cm). After adding phase plug the dip at 3kHz disappeared - nice linearity, slowly rising from ca 1kHz to ca 12kHz (+4dB), -6dB at ca. 15kHz. Finaly I treated cone with 2 very light layers of dammar varnish which really helped - softer, nicer, more natural midrange . But it takes few days to get completely dry.
I have treated my fe164's with dammar
. I bought those fostexs 6 years ago and built "jericho" horns for them. I never really get to like them though, so I gave horns to a friend and put drivers in garage . About year ago inspired with some Supravox drivers I decided to give them another try. This time I mounted them in 25 lit "onken"-style box. But again they were (to me) to coloured (agressive and fuzzy) to listen. Then I cut off the wizzer cone - better: more linear (I have Clio measuring system) but with narrow dip at ca. 3kHz that wasn't there in extreme nearfield measurment (1cm). After adding phase plug the dip at 3kHz disappeared - nice linearity, slowly rising from ca 1kHz to ca 12kHz (+4dB), -6dB at ca. 15kHz. Finaly I treated cone with 2 very light layers of dammar varnish which really helped - softer, nicer, more natural midrange . But it takes few days to get completely dry.
I think mr. Feedback is talking about liquid latex not latex paint.
He paints it on, he doesn't say it's actually paint.
The clue is that he mentions that it goes on milky then gets clear.
Latex PAINT is going to dry really hard- not rubbery like liquid latex
I used to get it at good bicycling stores to paint on the side walls of my tubular tires to try and preserve these very expensive items. Another, easier source is a hobby shop. They have liquid latex that you paint on objects to create a rubber mold to make castings. It takes lots of layers to make a mold, probably only a few to damp a speaker- good luck!
EDIT: whoops Eric beat me to an answer, but maybe my comment will help people find the stuff
He paints it on, he doesn't say it's actually paint.
The clue is that he mentions that it goes on milky then gets clear.
Latex PAINT is going to dry really hard- not rubbery like liquid latex
I used to get it at good bicycling stores to paint on the side walls of my tubular tires to try and preserve these very expensive items. Another, easier source is a hobby shop. They have liquid latex that you paint on objects to create a rubber mold to make castings. It takes lots of layers to make a mold, probably only a few to damp a speaker- good luck!
EDIT: whoops Eric beat me to an answer, but maybe my comment will help people find the stuff
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