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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Great White North
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I am thinking of laminating the entire cabinet in 1/4" or 3/8" cherry and sanding that down and adding a neutral stain and urethane to finish.
I didn't know if it would sonically harm the originally intended sound. |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
). I'm not sure about goats leather though, as I have been a veggie for 12 yearsWolf, don't worry about the sound, the effects will be negligable, just build them, they will look amazing! I would prefer using a water based varnish though, as it smells less, and dries quicker, giving dust less chance to settle.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
And if not,how does a piano arrive at such high gloss and what makes it so resilient to scratching? Thx,
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Frank |
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#14 |
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On Hiatus
Join Date: Nov 2002
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I want to see some pictures in this thread.
A little eye-candy would make this subject really interesting. |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Stew. |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Quebec City
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Quote:
Not sure which paint/varnish the piano uses, but for sure it is really hard to make this finish at home. Someday, I will take a few course in wood/cabinet finishing.
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Imagination is more important than knowledge. knowledge is limited, imagination encircles the world. Albert Einstein FrankDIY's Audio Corner |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Quebec City
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Quote:
__________________
Imagination is more important than knowledge. knowledge is limited, imagination encircles the world. Albert Einstein FrankDIY's Audio Corner |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think the key to a glass like finish in lacquer (or a paint finish) is in the cutting back and polishing and the surface preparation. your surface must be perfectly flat before any lacquer is applied or you will see ripples in the end result. A cabinet scraper is a very good tool for this
Then sealed with a sealer and sanded with 240 grit paper, Lots of layers of lacquer, flattening out in-between every 2nd or 3rd coat with 240grit until a good depth has been reached. final few layers should be clear lacquer, Cut back with wet&dry paper used wet from 400 grit right up to 2000 grit (taking care at the edges and corners as it's easy to sand through) Then use medium cutting liquid similar to t-cut then fine cutting liquid progressing on to extra fine then on to swirl remover or "3M Hand Glaze" then polish with a very soft cloth and voala! a mirror like glass finish that's very tough and more scratch resistant than straight off the gun. A finish right of the spray gun no matter how good it's done is no where near as good as cut back and polished surface. It takes allot of elbow grease for a perfect finish. Anyone can do this at home!! as long as your armed with the basic knowledge and some old cotton t-shirts, off the shelf cutting liquids and lots of w&d paper. All my opinion of course but that's how I do it.Stew. |
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#19 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: VA, USA
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No reason to use that simulation woodgrain contact paper.
Try here for very low cost but high quality veneers: http://www.tapeease.com/ -Chris |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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I just made my speakers out of .75" mdf and then glued .75" red oak to the outside, then stained and polyurethaned them.
-- Brian |
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