Beginning wih Birch Ply. I've been asking around about Baltic Birch, but suppliers local to me talk about the Latvian Birch available on tap. Is this the same stuff? It's labeled as BB/BB whatever that means.
I've found a major supplier of the above on my doorstep, but they don't provide a cutting service. To cut the sheets into manageable sizes for use on the table saw, I was thinking of laying it on the ground supported by eight blocks of wood and cutting down the middle with a router and guide. The aim being to get accurate square cuts without the splintering/breaking at the end of the cut. Any tips/alternatives here would be much appreciated.
I've found a major supplier of the above on my doorstep, but they don't provide a cutting service. To cut the sheets into manageable sizes for use on the table saw, I was thinking of laying it on the ground supported by eight blocks of wood and cutting down the middle with a router and guide. The aim being to get accurate square cuts without the splintering/breaking at the end of the cut. Any tips/alternatives here would be much appreciated.
Ripping with a circular saw and a guide works well with large unmanagable pieces. If you use a router you might want to make a series of passes with increasing depth to prevent the bit from breaking. If your performing a crosscut (against the grain) some masking tape comes in handy to reduce breakout.
Thanks for the feedback. I only have a router but I guess the same applies.
What about when you pass long sheets though the tablesaw and you want to avoid damaging the off cut when it becomes loose and sometimes angles into the blade? Any ideas here when a second guide and a second helper isn't available?
What about when you pass long sheets though the tablesaw and you want to avoid damaging the off cut when it becomes loose and sometimes angles into the blade? Any ideas here when a second guide and a second helper isn't available?
Well, I've never found it to be a real problem, but I always cut the piece I need exact dimensions of next to the fence. Just feed slowly and steadily, and make sure the outfeed has somethnig to rest on after it leaves the saw table, roller supports are cheap enough, or you can bodge something with a workmate and spare sheet material.
One trick is to layout your material about an inch (2.5 cm) larger first. Cut all your pieces to rough dimension first... use an axe if that makes you happy, and don't worry about splinters. Always try to preserve 1 "FACTORY EDGE" on your material.
Now that the pieces are a more managable size; make your final cuts. On a table saw; the "good" side should be up.
Now, one trick you can use all over the place is expensive, but excellent. Buy a sheet of thin (2-3 mm) hardboard/Masonite/ fiberboard and place this over (or under) your "good" wood. Place few brads here and there if you wish. Do your layout on the hardboard (depends) and start cutting. The additional layer of material prevents splintering. For example, if using a jigsaw, which tears up the top; place your panel on some cardboard boxes, lay a sacrificial sheet over it, layout and cut. For a tablesaw put the sacrificial sheet underneath instead.
Now for router work; b-u-t-t and clamp an identicle piece of material (scrap) at the end or the beginning of your cut... it must be butted tightly. Start/complet your cut in the scrap material (same principle really just rotated 90 degrees).
EDIT: the filter didn't like b-u-t-t... how 'bout abutt?
Now that the pieces are a more managable size; make your final cuts. On a table saw; the "good" side should be up.
Now, one trick you can use all over the place is expensive, but excellent. Buy a sheet of thin (2-3 mm) hardboard/Masonite/ fiberboard and place this over (or under) your "good" wood. Place few brads here and there if you wish. Do your layout on the hardboard (depends) and start cutting. The additional layer of material prevents splintering. For example, if using a jigsaw, which tears up the top; place your panel on some cardboard boxes, lay a sacrificial sheet over it, layout and cut. For a tablesaw put the sacrificial sheet underneath instead.
Now for router work; b-u-t-t and clamp an identicle piece of material (scrap) at the end or the beginning of your cut... it must be butted tightly. Start/complet your cut in the scrap material (same principle really just rotated 90 degrees).
EDIT: the filter didn't like b-u-t-t... how 'bout abutt?
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