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Old 19th January 2006, 09:12 PM   #11
dfdye is offline dfdye  United States
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I personally love Titebond II for everything woodworking. The long open time relative to epoxy (at least some of them) and gorilla coupled with the ease of cleanup makes it a lasting favorite for me. As with any glue, you should clamp whether using water based or with epoxy or gorilla glue. Any time you don't clamp you run a great risk of making a weak joint that will separate under continuous vibration.

As far as gap filling and leaks are concerned, I usually just caulk the snot out of the inside corners after glue-up with a silicon based exterior grade caulk (GE brand is my personal favorite) in case there is a leak anywhere. With my table saw, measurements are pretty easy to hit so I rarely get gaps over 1/64", so YMMV if you are trying to plug larger gaps.

I also have had good luck with liquid nails as an adhesive for assembling boxes, though the viscosity of it makes glue-up a little harder than with Titebond. In many cases I have been concerned that the flow didn't completely seal the joint, but I cannot be certain of that. I have noticed that joint gaps are sometimes more pronounced when using liquid nails if clamping pressure is not sufficient. Again, I sealed the inside joints with silicon caulk just in case. I may be smoking crack here, but I thought the elasticity of liquid nails when dry was supposed to help dampen cabinets too. I have never attempted to verify this, but if others have some experience I would love to hear if you have found this to be the case.

Also, I like the bondo technique of exterior gap filling in MDF. I have had quite good success with painting over it and getting a smooth blend between but-jointed panels.

my $0.02
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Old 19th January 2006, 09:29 PM   #12
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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Last time,

Epoxy don't need no stinkin' clamps... unless you're using clamps to force ill fitting pieces together... read the data. Clamps can actually starve the joints if used with too much pressure. Now the joint should not be moved while curing so clamps, or better yet, brads can be used to stabilize things.
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Old 19th January 2006, 10:12 PM   #13
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I have a question. Why are we even discussing epoxy? There is no need for it when working with wood. No one I know uses it on wood unless it's on a boat and even then there are alternatives. It simply doesn't make sense unless the price is the same as a PVA type. It can be used but why would anyone even think about it for a speaker?

To me that's like using a 3" nail when you need a thumbtack.

Use wood glue, the yellow stuff is better than the white. Clamp, nail, screw or best, use corner blocking.
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Old 19th January 2006, 10:29 PM   #14
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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Cal,

I think if anyone needs waterproof speakers right now, it would be... well... nevermind.



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Old 19th January 2006, 10:35 PM   #15
hongrn is offline hongrn  United States
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I use Titebond II for all my boxes. I don't clamp at all. After applying the glue, I use an electric nail gun and nail the pieces in place. Once, I had to dismantle a box by using a hammer to break the pieces apart, the MDF broke before the glued seams did. The glue practically welded the pieces together. No need to use epoxy.

Pictured is a MTM with RS180s and Seas H1212, sitting on top of a RSHF 10" sub and passive radiator, powered by 300W BASH amps. The sub is 1.6 cu ft, braced extensively using just 1.5" nails and lots of Titebond II glue.

Hong

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Old 19th January 2006, 10:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by hongrn
Aahh... the smell of sawdust and wood glue in the morning...

this line is (almost) most intelligent line in this thread...

sorry,to be more precise-not "most intelligent" ,in fact-most reasonable!



btw-I always use plain wood-glue (white in my area of the world ),but for putty is best to use sort intended for auto market (I presume this is epoxy based )
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Old 20th January 2006, 12:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by poobah
I think if anyone needs waterproof speakers right now, it would be... well... nevermind.


It's still raining.

I'm wearing my lifejacket instead of my winter coat
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Old 20th January 2006, 12:56 AM   #18
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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You know,

I shouldn't tell the whole world that Washington and BC are the most beautiful places in the world... but they are. Just take care of it Cal... save some for me.

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Old 20th January 2006, 01:28 AM   #19
dfdye is offline dfdye  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by hongrn
I use Titebond II for all my boxes. I don't clamp at all. After applying the glue, I use an electric nail gun and nail the pieces in place.
Works for me! The only problem I have with using nails is that I usually round over the edges of the boxes. It looks like you rounded the face of your box, and I was wondering what you do about nails potentially getting in the way? I agree that using nails, pins, or screws to hold joints in place is great in lieu of clamping, but I have always been paranoid of carbide hitting steel nails!

Poobah, I understand (quite well in fact) that over-tightening clamps can starve joints of adhesives through over thinning adhesive layers. My argument is quite simple: without securing joints (through clamping, or as you also propose, through pinning/nailing/screwing), the adhesive will not seat properly, will not spread across surfaces sufficiently, and will subsequently not adhere properly. I think you and I are on the same page that joints need to be secured during set time—sorry if I misunderstood your position. I agree that nails can be used as “clamps” to secure joints, but I originally understood your position to mean that epoxied joints could essentially be pressed into place and hold well. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 20th January 2006, 02:10 AM   #20
hongrn is offline hongrn  United States
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Quote:
The only problem I have with using nails is that I usually round over the edges of the boxes. It looks like you rounded the face of your box, and I was wondering what you do about nails potentially getting in the way?
I usually don't use nails on the edges that need to be rounded. As a matter fact, I don't have a 3/4 inch roundover bit, so I glue a 3/4" wood quarter round to the baffle to get the needed radius. I agree with you about carbide hitting nails. Could prove ugly!

Hong
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