Seas-based Center channel...need help

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Landroval said:
Have you built the enclosures already? To be able to do a good crossover design, you should measure the drivers separately in the enclosure, and base your design on the results.

What are you using (or going to use) as main speakers? It would be important to keep the center speaker as similar as possible to the mains.

Edit: If you want to get away from the designing process and just build a predesigned system take a look at Selah Audio Pro5CC and Sardonyx center-speakers. They're quite close to your plan and certainly will not dissapoint.
http://www.selahaudio.com/id71.html

When you're ready to design your own design I suggest you star with an easy 2-driver system with simple crossover. When you learn, you can move to more advanced systems.


It's funny you mentioned them, but I actually looked at the Selah's offerings when doing a search. They also provide custom designs.....but what's the fun in that, right?! :D

My Mains are currently Swan Diva 6.1's, but I intend to build a pair of "Fat Thors" to replace them, and to match the center I build.

I have build DIY speakers before, but did not design my own....just used existing designs, and cut the wood...this is my first attempt at my own custom design.
 
pinkmouse said:
I don't get where you get the 10" restriction from. What about the extra volume the bass units will take up? Could you do a sketch to clarify?

Side by side mids are a bad idea as they will lead to vertical lobing near the crossover frequency, giving a very small sweet spot.


As you can see from the pic attached, the center will be located right below the TV, angled towards the listening position.....the height of the center channel is restricted to 10" in order to fit that stand.

the extra volume is fine because I can go wider and deeper.

if side by side mids is a bad idea, perhaps I should just do a WMTW design, with the mid right below the tweeter.
:confused:
 

Attachments

  • sherv_av_0022_small.jpg
    sherv_av_0022_small.jpg
    69.3 KB · Views: 203
ssabripo said:
if side by side mids is a bad idea, perhaps I should just do a WMTW design, with the mid right below the tweeter.
:confused:

Yes, WMTMW has only defects compared to a W T/M W or just about anything else. It seems you're determined to design it yourself, so do it, but learn as much as possible before closing the deal.

One possible option is to do a sideways TM with the Millennium and a W22. It would be much easier than a big 3-way and would probably be a very capable design. It could also be a W T/M 3-way without the second W.

If you go with the WT/MW I think the clue to a succesful design is a low crossover point between the M and the two W's. This way the lobing will be minimal and the dispersion will be as close as possible to a vertical TM as it can. If you take for ex. the W15CH001 to be the M you could cut maybe a little over 100Hz. Maybe.
 
ssabripo said:



As you can see from the pic attached, the center will be located right below the TV, angled towards the listening position.....the height of the center channel is restricted to 10" in order to fit that stand.

the extra volume is fine because I can go wider and deeper.

if side by side mids is a bad idea, perhaps I should just do a WMTW design, with the mid right below the tweeter.
:confused:

Just curious - how does that HiVi unit you have now sound?
 
sdclc126 said:


Just curious - how does that HiVi unit you have now sound?
It is a VERY capabale Center for what it is.....a $350 USD retail one. But, after hearing the Aerial Acoustics CC5, and even the Rockets RSC200 "big foot" (from AV123.com), I must say that my Center needs some help :bawling:

Plus, I'm planning on doing the Fat Thors, which wont require "design" from my part, so that's why I wanted to really do a Seas Excel based Center

Originally posted by Landroval

If you go with the WT/MW I think the clue to a succesful design is a low crossover point between the M and the two W's. This way the lobing will be minimal and the dispersion will be as close as possible to a vertical TM as it can. If you take for ex. the W15CH001 to be the M you could cut maybe a little over 100Hz. Maybe.
You are 100% correct.....I just finished speaking to Rick Craig from Selah audio, and he also recommended I use a WMTW design with a W15CY as the mid rather than the W12....

I will start working on that..... WTMW, with a millenium tweeter and the W15CY as the mid.
 
Hello ssabripo,

Reading this thread is so painful that I had to jump in. Take it from a guy who started doing this a little more than a year ago. You've got to take it slowly, and start with a simple design, such as a 2-way. If you don't like doing other people's proven design, you can do your own, but buy inexpensive drivers, such as Daytons. If you can afford Excels, you can afford a good book, some good speaker building software. Learn how to design your own box and crossover, and experiment to get the sound you'd like to hear. Go listen to a few live concerts to find out what live instruments sound like. After all, you're trying to emulate live instruments with a speaker system. After you've done at least 4 or 5 sets of speakers, I'd say you're ready for the 3-way Excels. I hope this is a life long hobby for you - it will be for me - so you'll have plenty of time to savor the fruits of your labor. Right now, I think you're piece-mealing this entire experience instead of logically going through the steps that basic speaker building requires. If you don't know yet why you should flush mount a driver, you're certainly not ready for these drivers. Don't be discouraged. This hobby demands patience, and patience will be your greatest virtue here. Again, scrap the entire project, save these great drivers, and start with an inexpensive 2 -way.

Hong
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.