I have completed speakers but I made them when I really didn't know what I was doing. I now wonder if it might be better to rebuild them, although I'd really rather keep them if they are salvagable.
I made them in a MTWW design, but my new thoughts are that the mid and woofer are too far away, and when testing I could never get an appreciable null when the phase was reveresed. If I did it over again I'd go with a MTMWW design.
Also the tweeter is lower than my ears, which would be a problem, and I would have offset the tweeter.
These are all problems besides the fact that the box is very large and I designed it with optimal extension but not aestetics in mind.
Here is a picture of them, what are your thoughts?
http://home.insightbb.com/~bjackson1/done.jpg
They would look real nice as an MTMWW, but I don't think there would be any feasible way of removing the front baffle.
I made them in a MTWW design, but my new thoughts are that the mid and woofer are too far away, and when testing I could never get an appreciable null when the phase was reveresed. If I did it over again I'd go with a MTMWW design.
Also the tweeter is lower than my ears, which would be a problem, and I would have offset the tweeter.
These are all problems besides the fact that the box is very large and I designed it with optimal extension but not aestetics in mind.
Here is a picture of them, what are your thoughts?
http://home.insightbb.com/~bjackson1/done.jpg
They would look real nice as an MTMWW, but I don't think there would be any feasible way of removing the front baffle.
A crossover schematic would be helpful, as would the FR measurements.
If you want to go MTM, you could cut out a rectangle of the front panel almost as large as the inside wall dimension from near the top to just above the woofers. Then glue strips of MDF to the edges forming a lip to hold the new front panel. (The result will look like a rectangular driver recess) You'll need to patch up the finish on the front, but that is easier than starting from scratch if the bass alignment suits.
You can rework the mid subenclosure through the hole to accommodate the extra mid or mount it to the back of the new insert. You did build a separate volume for the mids, right? Sorry if this is obvious, but you said you built them before you knew what you were doing The mids absoultely must be in a volume sealed from the woofers
Edit: Are the problems you describe theoretical, or do you notice an improvement when you sit lower? What are your goals for the rebuild?
If you want to go MTM, you could cut out a rectangle of the front panel almost as large as the inside wall dimension from near the top to just above the woofers. Then glue strips of MDF to the edges forming a lip to hold the new front panel. (The result will look like a rectangular driver recess) You'll need to patch up the finish on the front, but that is easier than starting from scratch if the bass alignment suits.
You can rework the mid subenclosure through the hole to accommodate the extra mid or mount it to the back of the new insert. You did build a separate volume for the mids, right? Sorry if this is obvious, but you said you built them before you knew what you were doing The mids absoultely must be in a volume sealed from the woofers
Edit: Are the problems you describe theoretical, or do you notice an improvement when you sit lower? What are your goals for the rebuild?
Aren't those the ones that your parents got painted for you while you were away somewhere? How could you even think about throwing them away?
Make a new baffle and mount it directly over the exisiting. Cut the existing as needed for the new baffle to be mounted to. Make it a little smaller than the existing. Make it out of wood or something contrasting so you don't have to try and match the automotive paint.
Make the grille the same size as the original cabinet but with a lip all around so it fits over the new baffle, covers the edge and fits tight to the original baffle.
No mess, no fuss and you keep your hard work intact.
Cal
Make a new baffle and mount it directly over the exisiting. Cut the existing as needed for the new baffle to be mounted to. Make it a little smaller than the existing. Make it out of wood or something contrasting so you don't have to try and match the automotive paint.
Make the grille the same size as the original cabinet but with a lip all around so it fits over the new baffle, covers the edge and fits tight to the original baffle.
No mess, no fuss and you keep your hard work intact.
Cal
Yes they are in a 3 liter subenclosure. I don't think my wood working skills are up to par to try to add a subenclosure inside it again, especially since where the new mid would be, there is a port on the back.
There is no x-over schematic, I used a L-R 4th order x-over active at 3500hz, and at 350hz.
There is no x-over schematic, I used a L-R 4th order x-over active at 3500hz, and at 350hz.
I'm going to post this here before creating a new thread.
I live in an apartment that my "listening room" is 10 x 8. Are these speakers a bit much?
I like this idea for replacing the top part of the speaker, however, I was just wondering if integration with the bottom woofers would be a problem with impulse response. I'd have to cross at 100hz or so for there to not be a big problem wouldn't I. Any ideas?
http://hilltop.bradley.edu/~bjackson/Speaker.jpg
(On the left is the present design, on the right is the new design. the "badge" design is just big enough to fit over the current hole. It is gray so that black drivers can be seen)
I live in an apartment that my "listening room" is 10 x 8. Are these speakers a bit much?
I like this idea for replacing the top part of the speaker, however, I was just wondering if integration with the bottom woofers would be a problem with impulse response. I'd have to cross at 100hz or so for there to not be a big problem wouldn't I. Any ideas?
http://hilltop.bradley.edu/~bjackson/Speaker.jpg
(On the left is the present design, on the right is the new design. the "badge" design is just big enough to fit over the current hole. It is gray so that black drivers can be seen)
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