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Old 30th December 2005, 03:20 PM   #1
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Default Filling cracks in veneer

Hello everyone,
Iíve almost finished the first of my pair of new speakers.

The look is blatantly ripped from the Avalon Acoustics line but the drive units are completely different: Seas T25CF-001 soft dome Excel tweeter, Audax HM130C0 5.25Ē midrange and Seas L22RN4X/P 8Ē aluminium woofers (thanks Shin!).

As you can see, the veneering is done but there is one problem...
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Old 30th December 2005, 03:23 PM   #2
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There are a few areas where sections of the figured maple veneer has chipped off during trimming. Iíve tried using wood filler but the colour, while close, isnít correct. The best colour match Iíve managed so far is to use dust from sanding the veneer and mix this with a little PVA glue to make my own filler. I havenít tried varnishing this mixture yet so Iím not sure if it will affect the final outcome.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Finally, I'd like to bring out the grain but not darken the wood. Any advice on suitable products to achieve this?

Nice one,
David.
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Old 30th December 2005, 03:48 PM   #3
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Varnishing will be fine as far as PVA and sawdust goes, if you want to stain to bring out the figure, then that might be more of a problem.

I would use your home made filler, then a couple of coats of tung oil to seal the wood. Then you can use tinted rubbing wax to bring out the figure. The more coats of wax, the better the finish.

Oh, and I can see sanding marks on your veneer. They will have to go. Remember, preparation, preparation, preparation!
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Old 30th December 2005, 03:53 PM   #4
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I use gallons of this stuff
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Old 4th January 2006, 08:34 PM   #5
barry_e is offline barry_e  United States
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I ran into a similar problem when veneering with raw paduak (sp?). My solution was to use scissor to clip out a very small piece of veneer in rough proportions to the place to be filled. After wetting both the small veneer piece and the substrate with glue, I used a hot iron to iron the filler piece in.

After sanding out the high spots and overhang, the color of course was perfect. The height was also perfect. However, I didn't take care to align the grain so the transition was visible a close distances but less noticable from afar (ie. the listening distance).

Barry
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Old 4th January 2006, 09:11 PM   #6
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If I had to replace a little damage like that I'd use a hammer and punch to remove a circle / the bad bit off, then use the same punch to cut a new piece of veneer and glue it in / trim with scalpel.

If you need a punch give me a mail and I'll send you one (let me know what diameter circle you'd want to cut out)

Rob.
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Old 4th January 2006, 09:15 PM   #7
barry_e is offline barry_e  United States
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I ran into a similar problem when veneering with raw paduak (sp?). My solution was to use scissor to clip out a very small piece of veneer in rough proportions to the place to be filled. After wetting both the small veneer piece and the substrate with glue, I used a hot iron to iron the filler piece in.

After sanding out the high spots and overhang, the color of course was perfect. The height was also perfect. However, I didn't take care to align the grain so the transition was visible a close distances but less noticable from afar (ie. the listening distance).

Barry
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Old 4th January 2006, 09:17 PM   #8
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I used a similar method to barry. However I cut a rather long piece of replacement veneer to make the transition less noticeable.
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