Filling cracks in veneer

daatkins · 30th December 2005, 03:20 PM

Hello everyone,
I’ve almost finished the first of my pair of new speakers.

The look is blatantly ripped from the Avalon Acoustics line but the drive units are completely different: Seas T25CF-001 soft dome Excel tweeter, Audax HM130C0 5.25” midrange and Seas L22RN4X/P 8” aluminium woofers (thanks Shin!).

As you can see, the veneering is done but there is one problem...

daatkins · 30th December 2005, 03:23 PM

There are a few areas where sections of the figured maple veneer has chipped off during trimming. I’ve tried using wood filler but the colour, while close, isn’t correct. The best colour match I’ve managed so far is to use dust from sanding the veneer and mix this with a little PVA glue to make my own filler. I haven’t tried varnishing this mixture yet so I’m not sure if it will affect the final outcome.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Finally, I'd like to bring out the grain but not darken the wood. Any advice on suitable products to achieve this?

Nice one,
David.

pinkmouse · 30th December 2005, 03:48 PM

Varnishing will be fine as far as PVA and sawdust goes, if you want to stain to bring out the figure, then that might be more of a problem.

I would use your home made filler, then a couple of coats of tung oil to seal the wood. Then you can use tinted rubbing wax to bring out the figure. The more coats of wax, the better the finish.

Oh, and I can see sanding marks on your veneer. They will have to go. Remember, preparation, preparation, preparation!

pinkmouse · 30th December 2005, 03:53 PM

I use gallons of this stuff

barry_e · 4th January 2006, 08:34 PM

I ran into a similar problem when veneering with raw paduak (sp?). My solution was to use scissor to clip out a very small piece of veneer in rough proportions to the place to be filled. After wetting both the small veneer piece and the substrate with glue, I used a hot iron to iron the filler piece in.

After sanding out the high spots and overhang, the color of course was perfect. The height was also perfect. However, I didn't take care to align the grain so the transition was visible a close distances but less noticable from afar (ie. the listening distance).

Barry

RobWells · 4th January 2006, 09:11 PM

If I had to replace a little damage like that I'd use a hammer and punch to remove a circle / the bad bit off, then use the same punch to cut a new piece of veneer and glue it in / trim with scalpel.

If you need a punch give me a mail and I'll send you one (let me know what diameter circle you'd want to cut out)

Rob.

barry_e · 4th January 2006, 09:15 PM

I ran into a similar problem when veneering with raw paduak (sp?). My solution was to use scissor to clip out a very small piece of veneer in rough proportions to the place to be filled. After wetting both the small veneer piece and the substrate with glue, I used a hot iron to iron the filler piece in.

After sanding out the high spots and overhang, the color of course was perfect. The height was also perfect. However, I didn't take care to align the grain so the transition was visible a close distances but less noticable from afar (ie. the listening distance).

Barry

David Gatti · 4th January 2006, 09:17 PM

I used a similar method to barry. However I cut a rather long piece of replacement veneer to make the transition less noticeable.

30th December 2005, 03:48 PM	#3
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	Varnishing will be fine as far as PVA and sawdust goes, if you want to stain to bring out the figure, then that might be more of a problem. I would use your home made filler, then a couple of coats of tung oil to seal the wood. Then you can use tinted rubbing wax to bring out the figure. The more coats of wax, the better the finish. Oh, and I can see sanding marks on your veneer. They will have to go. Remember, preparation, preparation, preparation! __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

30th December 2005, 03:53 PM	#4
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	I use gallons of this stuff __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Cracks and hiss in tube guitar amp	LittleSickFish	Tubes / Valves	0	2nd January 2009 03:41 PM
Help! Cracks opening in my veneer	suzyj	Multi-Way	7	28th December 2006 04:42 AM
Paint Cracks in MDF Painted Boxes	slhijb	Multi-Way	7	9th October 2006 03:24 PM
Low Bass = Jagged Cracks In The Ceiling	OMNIFEX	Multi-Way	5	8th April 2003 12:56 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

4th January 2006, 08:34 PM	#5
barry_e diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: St. Louis	I ran into a similar problem when veneering with raw paduak (sp?). My solution was to use scissor to clip out a very small piece of veneer in rough proportions to the place to be filled. After wetting both the small veneer piece and the substrate with glue, I used a hot iron to iron the filler piece in. After sanding out the high spots and overhang, the color of course was perfect. The height was also perfect. However, I didn't take care to align the grain so the transition was visible a close distances but less noticable from afar (ie. the listening distance). Barry

4th January 2006, 09:11 PM	#6
RobWells diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: UK	If I had to replace a little damage like that I'd use a hammer and punch to remove a circle / the bad bit off, then use the same punch to cut a new piece of veneer and glue it in / trim with scalpel. If you need a punch give me a mail and I'll send you one (let me know what diameter circle you'd want to cut out) Rob.

4th January 2006, 09:15 PM	#7
barry_e diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: St. Louis	I ran into a similar problem when veneering with raw paduak (sp?). My solution was to use scissor to clip out a very small piece of veneer in rough proportions to the place to be filled. After wetting both the small veneer piece and the substrate with glue, I used a hot iron to iron the filler piece in. After sanding out the high spots and overhang, the color of course was perfect. The height was also perfect. However, I didn't take care to align the grain so the transition was visible a close distances but less noticable from afar (ie. the listening distance). Barry

4th January 2006, 09:17 PM	#8
David Gatti diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	I used a similar method to barry. However I cut a rather long piece of replacement veneer to make the transition less noticeable.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)