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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Los Angeles
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Hey everybody. Brief history, originally I was just going to make a dipole woofer, but I ended up with some more drivers so I figure I'd just combine it all to make an big orion clone.
What I'm wondering is about the mid-tweet vertical position. I have the PMT1 drivers, so basically I'm just stacking the PMT1 on top of the dipole woofer and putting on some side like the Orion. Is there an optimal position for the Mid-Tweet combo? Right now I have it modeled so that the center between the mid and tweet is at my ear level when sitting on my couch (~41") So yeah, that's it. Just wondering how high to put the mid-tweet panel (which is just a PMT1). Attached are some pictures of my model. I'd like to come up with some more creative sides to hold it together, but I'm drawing a blank right now... |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Los Angeles
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p.s. the back board that holds the woofer in place is not shown
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Los Angeles
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but it is shown here
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tampa
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In case you missed it:
ORION owners have access to helpful information and updates. The design is stable and has proven itself over a number of years now, but I still keep my eyes, ears and mind open for worthwhile revisions. These are the specifications: Open baffle cabinet Outside dimensions: Height 46.25" - Width 13" Depth 2" at top, 12" at base, 16" at 14" up Weight 60 lb (27 kg) 3-way active speaker system Crossovers at 120 Hz and 1440 Hz, both LR4 (24 dB/oct) Crossover/Equalizer using two ORION ASP printed circuit boards Tweeter - Seas T25CF002 - No, not a ribbon - 42" up , no 2.8 kHz notch filter as in PHOENIX Preferably no grill to cover the tweeter Midrange - Seas W22EX001 - No, not a smaller diameter - Front mounted to baffle, no spine, but see Revision 0.1 34.5" up, 5 kHz notch filter Woofer - two Peerless 10" XLS, 830452 Push-pull mounted in H-frame of 11.5" x 11.5" x 24.5" OD Each driver with its own >60 W amplifier etc. Those are the center line heights of the drivers. The gap between your main panel and woofer section would be highly undesirable. Cheers, AJ |
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#5 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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How about building the entire speaker taller, like a tower, by adding a base below the woofer module? The mid/high module would then be at your desired height, without changing the critical Orion dimensions. Someone correct me if Linkwitz advises against this.
Or, consider adding another midrange to the "gap" you have in your current design, making an MTM, as in Linkwitz' Phoenix. In this arrangement the tweeter would be at ear level, but the mid frequencies would appear to be there also. This of course makes for more complex and expensive design and possibly require crossover mods, but others have built Orions this way with favorable results. There is (or was?) a link somewhere on SL's site to just such a design, called the "Bob" loudspeaker - I think he used different woofers, but the mids & tweet are the same as best I can remember, just in an MTM arrangement.
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Soft Dome |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Los Angeles
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Sorry to resurrect this, but I'm trying to figure this out
Quote:
I'm very new to speaker building, so I don't understand what's going on. Could someone help explain what downsides there are to having a "gap" between the main panel and the woofer section (or send me a link that I can read up)? thanks a bunch |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bremerton, WA.
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I don't think the gap would be a problem. Indeed, the PMT1 is very similar in dimensions to the main panel of your rendering.
I think what AJ was concerned about was front/back cancellation since that distance is rather smaller on the lower edge of your panel than it is to the sides. Aesthetically, I would like the look of your speaker with the gap filled in, but that's just me. Acoustically, I don't think you'll pay much of a penalty for doing that. The horizontal polar response is the most critical, and your design seems very close to the basic Orion shape which is good. Cheers, Davey. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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If Linkwitz says it's OK it is. You can have the gap, or fill it in just using a taller panel - personally I think that would look better.
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Soft Dome |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Los Angeles
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Thanks a bunch for your replies guys
The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards just completely copying the Orion shape (i.e. filling in the gap). Still a little resistant since it would be nice to have a unique design, but the Orion does look nice. Again, thanks! I should start cutting wood the weekend after next (assuming nothing comes up, but some how something always comes up ), so I'll keep you all posted!
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