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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Foldaway? Good idea trying to find some ready made stuff though, as my standards for this system isn't to high, but then there's the problem of finding thiele small parameters. -Marius |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA USA
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I am trying to build a magnetizer for my speaker project. I need help on designing coils. Can anyone pointed me to the right direction or formula to calculate the current and turns?
Thanks |
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#23 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
That being said, you can find some info in the JoeList archives (with more warnings & specific dangers -- ie fuses for these are substantial pieces of metal) dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rotterdam, NL
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Quote:
Perhaps I'm not seeing this clearly but if the enclosure, roomsize, placement, roommodes, reflections, filtering and roomgain are so totally different from the place you're going to use it, than what does it tell you exactly? Wkr Johan |
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#25 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Lobing occurs whenever you have 2 distinct sources producing the same sounds. Since the sounds are not eminating from the exact same location, cancellation will occur at various listening angles. MTM designs use this occurence to reduce floor and ceiling bounce and keep the sound focused. This is also why you will hear repeatedly that although they are the most popular, MTM center channels laid horizontal are not the best bet because you will get response anomalies when sitting off-axis. The best way to minimize this effect is to ensure that you use a single tweeter to handle the highs and to make sure that your woofers are no more than 1/2 wavelength apart (center to center measurement) at the crossover point - and less is better. In a 3 speaker full range setup, you have the shortest frequencies (treble) emanating from 3 spots on a vertical plane - with a 4 inch speaker, each will be close to 5 inches apart, with a 10 inch gap between the top and bottom speakers. 10 inches is the half wavelength for about 675Hz (calculator here) so all sound above 675Hz will exhibit some lobing problems on the vertical plane (i.e. they will sound very different standing up and sitting down). When you use a tweeter to handle the treble, you assign a single point source for the high frequencies and avoid the lobing errors in that region. Clear as mud? Quote:
Good luck.
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- Chris |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: adelaide, australia
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beat me to it I was just about to recommend a phl driver...
I have large doubts about the sonic qualities of some of the pro audio drivers... but here the 1120 is tested and it doesn okay, considering it is compared to some pretty good drivers: http://206.13.113.199/ncdiyaudio/mar...20/PHL1120.htm I also dont think they need very large enclosures, but I havent used one myself. |
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#28 | ||
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Here is an intro http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/b...intro-bds.html -- it links off to other articles that cover off more detail. Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
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been out of the loop for a day or two and lots of new replies, goody
I'm gonne have to digest this tomorrow, right now i'm to tired, 9-5 type of jobs really suck the life out of you thanks Marius |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well, sorry to inform those of you who contributed to this thread, i can no longer go ahead with the speakers.
the reason is that my economical situation has had an upturn, and so i'm buying my first car, a 85' golf mk2 GTi as a project car and so i can safely asume all monetary recources to be dircted into that. those of you who frequent the caraudio forum here will probably see me from time to time though thanks for all your help though! at the very least, i learned a thing or two -Marius |
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