building 5.1 system with line arrays etc. Need help on Xovers, and Powering ribbons

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Before I buy everything I want to make sure this is all possible and will sound good.

I'm planning on builing line arrays with 16 toal 7" Dayton Ref mids so 8 per tower. I also plan on using 1 Fountek neo5i ribbon with each tower. I plan to power all the mids with a behringer ep2500. What do I power the ribbons with? For the center channel I plan on using 4 5" Dayton Ref speakers with 1 LCY ribbon. I was hoping I could power the center channel and the rears with the receiver. As for the rears I was thinking maybe another dayton 7 and a tweeter. I'm getting custom 15" subs built for me so I've got all that taken care of. I still haven't found the receiver I'd like to use. Want to spend upwards of $500. I'd like a 7.1 so I could upgrade later. Also I know I need custom crossovers but I have no clue on how to make them. Is there anyone that could design some for me. I could build them just not for sure on how to design them is the problem.

This is going to be used for Movies, and Music. This will be my first diy ht system so please let me know if something isn't right. I just don't want to spend all the money on everything and then find out it won't work or something won't sound right.

I know this is my frist post so if this is in the wrong section I'm sorry and move it to where ever it needs to go. Thanks.
 
That's a pretty ambitious first project. The crossover is the heart and soul of a speaker. It has to be custom designed for the drivers and the box. Nobody can design a generic crossover for you without measurements of the response of the drivers in the box. Given all that, I'd go with a proven design. There are several line-array designs/kits available.

http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=AlphaLS
http://www.selahaudio.com/id73.html
http://www.rawacoustics.com/

There are also some designs on this site if you search them out.

Edit: you should read Jim Griffin's line-array white paper if you haven't.

http://www.audiodiycentral.com/resource/pdf/nflawp.pdf
 
catapult said:
That's a pretty ambitious first project. The crossover is the heart and soul of a speaker. It has to be custom designed for the drivers and the box. Nobody can design a generic crossover for you without measurements of the response of the drivers in the box. Given all that, I'd go with a proven design. There are several line-array designs/kits available.

http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=AlphaLS
http://www.selahaudio.com/id73.html
http://www.rawacoustics.com/

There are also some designs on this site if you search them out.


Thanks thats what I was looking for. Now how can I power the ribbons in the towers? This is the first home audio but I've done a ton of work in my car. Just trying home audio now. I also like to go big or nothing.
 
You could use Behringer Ultradrive as an active crossover, with 6 channels. For 5.1 you would need a few of them.

I'd be careful to match the centre speaker as much as possible, perhaps even omitting it as in some cases it isn't required.

Also consider the trade-offs of using more and more channels, which amounts to a lot of speakers and a lot of amplifiers.

Regarding receivers, NAD are IMO a good choice for the diyer, one of a number of reasons for that is they have pre-outs and amplifier inputs. This is necessary for active setups, where they allow you to have a pre out to add on another power amplifier, while still being able to use the built-in power amps. Many receivers don't even have pre-outs, and those that do normally don't then allow you to use the power amps included, which means you have to spend more.

One of the lower priced to mid priced NAD receivers offer this, you have to spend a bit more to get amplifier inputs, but if you want to go active it's worth it. On other receivers you have to usually spend a lot more to get this.

Keep in mind going active doesn't mean you escape from having to properly optimise the crossover, although it makes it easier. Also you can change the xo by simply turning some knobs - no soldering.

There are a lot of trade-offs to consider - a large number of passive speakers vs a smaller number of active speakers - both options are more elaborate than most setups.
 
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