I want to spend some time this month making my first crossover.
First of all I'm not trying for a perfect crossover. My goal is to brush up some very rusty soldering skills and at the same time improve my reading of the diagrams. If I end up with a working crossover that will be a bonus.
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/crossover12db.html
Is the diagram for a two way in that one right?
What should I be looking for in terms of good versus bad parts? That website points out Non-Polarized. Anything else important?
Also is the chart with the values accurate?
FWIW this isn't for a real speaker. I'll likely pick up the cheapest midrange and tweeter I can find just so I can make sure the crossover I wired up works.
Basically I figure this whole thing is a form of tution.
First of all I'm not trying for a perfect crossover. My goal is to brush up some very rusty soldering skills and at the same time improve my reading of the diagrams. If I end up with a working crossover that will be a bonus.
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/crossover12db.html
Is the diagram for a two way in that one right?
What should I be looking for in terms of good versus bad parts? That website points out Non-Polarized. Anything else important?
Also is the chart with the values accurate?
FWIW this isn't for a real speaker. I'll likely pick up the cheapest midrange and tweeter I can find just so I can make sure the crossover I wired up works.
Basically I figure this whole thing is a form of tution.
NickZ,
Yes, this is a two way crossover.
The component values are calculated around ideal 8 ohm and 4 ohm speakers with flat frequency and power response (which don't actually exist)
and are a good starting point for further tweeking.
Non polarised electrolytic capacitors can take an electrical charge in both directions, whereas polarised electrolytics (identified by small minus symbols on the capacitor, pointing towards one lead) only take a charge safely in the marked direction, making them unsuitable for cross overs.
Any cheap components will be ok to get you started, and when you have messed around with the component values and are happy with the sound, you can swap to better quality ones. This saves a lot of wasted money if you get it wrong!
Note. The component values you end up with, will only be suitable for the model of speakers they are tested with. Changing speakers will mean tinkering with the component values again.
I would recommend reading a book about speaker building if you don't understand the topic you are engaging in. I fully recommend 'The loudspeaker cookbook' by Vance Dickerson. It is fairly technical though, but a very good introduction as to designing speakers.
Once you start, you can't stop!
Good luck with your project.
Yes, this is a two way crossover.
The component values are calculated around ideal 8 ohm and 4 ohm speakers with flat frequency and power response (which don't actually exist)
and are a good starting point for further tweeking.
Non polarised electrolytic capacitors can take an electrical charge in both directions, whereas polarised electrolytics (identified by small minus symbols on the capacitor, pointing towards one lead) only take a charge safely in the marked direction, making them unsuitable for cross overs.
Any cheap components will be ok to get you started, and when you have messed around with the component values and are happy with the sound, you can swap to better quality ones. This saves a lot of wasted money if you get it wrong!
Note. The component values you end up with, will only be suitable for the model of speakers they are tested with. Changing speakers will mean tinkering with the component values again.
I would recommend reading a book about speaker building if you don't understand the topic you are engaging in. I fully recommend 'The loudspeaker cookbook' by Vance Dickerson. It is fairly technical though, but a very good introduction as to designing speakers.
Once you start, you can't stop!
Good luck with your project.
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