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| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
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I'm sure this has been discussed here somewhere, but I haven't found it.
I'm designing some speakers for the first time. I hve some grasp on electronics, but I'm no expert. I will have 100W (RMS) going to the speaker. I'm thinking it's going to be a 3 way. I have a feeling that the tweeter won't need to handle as much wattage as the woofer. How do I figure out how much each component will recieve? |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Hi Hogiewan,
It might be easier if you let us know what you're designing and let us help from there. There are a lot of factors concerning XO point and slope that it's tough to answer your question accurately. What drivers and configuration are you planning to use? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
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I'm just trying to understand some of the thory before I go any further - so no divers selected yet.
I'm just wondering what kind max power I can expect after splittin the signal via 1st order crossovers. Is there an equation somewhere? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi HW,
save yourself a lot of headscratching and build this : http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...a/lyramain.htm P.S. its impossible to build a decent 3 way with simple 1st order c/o's. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
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I know the whole range can't be covered with a 3 way with 1 order xo's. but I just want some explaination on wattage after the crossovers
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi Hw,
generally for a 100W speaker the midrange would be 20 to 30 continuous watts RMS and the tweeter 10 to 15 continuous watts RMS, though you can get away with much less - and many cheap speakers do. I'd say half the above values is as low as its sensible to go. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
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Well, let me explain my end goal.
I'd like a 3-way box with 5" woofers (possibly 5" mids for aesthetics) that will get me low enough to let a sub take over. These will be used for Home Theatre as well as musical reproduction. The room they will be in is quite small. I plan on building a box that will sit in a corner because there is no room to space them far enough for the side walls. I want to design and build the main pair and hang them. Then, I'll make the sub, then add the center and rear pair. This is a long term project as I plan to learn a lot before pruchasing anything. I would like the best speakers possible, but (as always) price is a huge factor and must be kept lowish. I appreciate any help. And like I said, I'd appreciate links to theory instead of a step by step build project. Thanks |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
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sretan - thanks for the help. Is there any mathmatical equation that will tell me exactly how much power is in each after splitting with a xo?
Also, if there is ~10W going to highs, ~20W going to mids, is ther ~70W going to the lows? Thanks |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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The simple answer is no there isn't.
Signals to each band depend on the waveform of the music track. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
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Quote:
Well, there's got to be a theoretical maximum. What if the signal was pink noise? |
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