Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 2nd December 2005, 04:52 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Default John K's Seas Design, Questions

I've been really searching lately for a pretty simple xover design that i could personally build myself, that is with some help of some knowedgable people around the net and such.

But i've come upon John K's Seas Metal Design, and i wonder if to save money in the woofer department if i could use a Dayton RS180 and still have really the same response, and such without paying ~$70 for a driver that i could get the same with 1/2 the dollar amount, as Price is VERY important on my kit choice.

Really trying to get away with say.....250 MAX for drivers/xover.

But will the Dayton RS180 7" be a direct drop in woofer...and if so what enclosure size would it need to get the best response....Will be mainly a TV/Music setup, and sub will be handling lower than the midbass, so no concern there.

Also really how much would i be looking at for the price of the xover components for a pair of these? Really important i know this, and i need help finding the particular xover parts needed for this design, as most values don't seem to be directly on.

Hope someone can help me alot, And tell me some good news about these questions....
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2005, 08:12 AM   #2
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
Hi,

find another design, do not try to modify a design. Try here ....

http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/default.htm

/sreten.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2005, 11:24 AM   #3
Zaph is offline Zaph  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Zaph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wisconsin
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/dis...gi?read=365119

Here's a post on Madisound that may help you.

I saw your email. 1)too long. 2)you broke about 3 of my FAQ rules. I don't answer questions about substitutions because they generally don't work without crossover changes. It makes me feel all negative saying NO all the time, so I just don't answer. If I answer emails like that, discussions tend to degenerate because people often begin to argue and dispute answers they don't want to hear.

If the Seas woofer is too expensive for you, sreten has the best advice: build a different design.

I will do another RS180 vs L18 write-up on my web site later when I get home. There are several pros and cons to each woofer that I will list later.

Hoping I don't come across as a jerk,

John
__________________
-Zaph|Audio-
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2005, 01:14 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Not at all John, I would be the same way....repetitious questions are annoying

I was hoping i wouldn't break any of your email rules, but i opted to email you anyway just for reassurance, also appologize about the length. I had just thought mabey that the substitution would work being that so many people had told me there that alike, after reading your link i really Feel sorta bad now, seeing as how ya get asked the same questsions i asked 10times a week, hope i haven't shown any disrespect.

Will most likely build the design as soon as i can get a few extra dollars granted the tweet plays out in my favor.

I've gotten a few opinions on the 27TBFCG and the comment that the tweet is a little dead, any truth to this?
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2005, 04:11 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
sdclc126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
From what I have read the Dayton driver requires a more complex (read: expensive) crossover design, so the total cost of the system would end up being about the same, IF you want to do it right.

Personally I would prefer to spend more on the SEAS units and less on the simpler, easier to build crossover.

BTW, I would love to see an MTM, possibly ported, floorstander design for those SEAS aluminum babies.
__________________
Soft Dome
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2005, 03:03 AM   #6
kevyjo is offline kevyjo  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Kansas City
Default dead SEAS tweeter

I have no idea if that tweeter is similar to the seas 25 TAF/G in my signet's, but I find it amusing that people shopping in the same audio store described the speakers I ended up buying as "dead" sounding. Over the years I grew to realize I probably bought the best speakers there, and the "dead" sound I believe is a lack of distortion, because they get all "airey and sparkly" when the recording contains "air and sparkle".
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2005, 06:13 AM   #7
MegaMe is offline MegaMe  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: adelaide, australia
One of the reasons zaph stated for using that woofer in that design was the high breakup node at about 7kHz. I'm pretty sure the rs180 has a breakup node a fair bit lower that this... maybe in the 5kHz or so range??? for this reason alone you cannot substitute the rs180 in this design.
This also means most good designs using the rs180 will need a complex and costly xover to stop the breakup from becoming a problem... and as such most designs using the rs180 won't be much cheaper than using the seas.
here is an example: http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13154
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th December 2005, 08:39 AM   #8
kevyjo is offline kevyjo  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Kansas City
This is somewhat unrelated, but zaph you would know this one I bet. The "cygnet" kit from seas looks attractive at $245, but I was curious if the SEAS 27TFFC could be replaced with the 27TBFCG or the 27TDFC? I asked madisound about swapping the TBFCG for the TFFC and the response was "even though the tweeters are electrically similar, the TFFC has higher acoustic output, so the TBFCG is not a drop in......well, I guess, it just doesn't look that way to me from the frequency response.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th December 2005, 09:17 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
JC Fardo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil
Hi

I certainlly would give this project a detailed check up, if you didnīt find it yet:

http://www.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/...7/Cryolite.htm

JC
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th December 2005, 08:38 PM   #10
amperex is offline amperex  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: MI
Default DIY Design

DIY designs are tweaked for best sonics. At times the cross-over is forth, even six generation before released. A different driver will have one starting over & best to have a large parts bin.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
John Broskie's headphone design using pentodes Brit01 Headphone Systems 14 15th July 2009 02:28 AM
John Zaphke's Tangband W3-871S design maps Full Range 2 28th January 2007 07:57 PM
John Krutke's MTM (Vifa XG18 / Seas 27TDFC) scone Multi-Way 17 16th October 2006 04:54 PM
Amp5 and John K's Seas L15RLYP / 27TFFC System? kidproquo Multi-Way 7 3rd February 2006 03:40 PM
Finished the John Krutke SEAS All Metal System (floorstand version) tktran Multi-Way 0 11th July 2005 03:45 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:16 PM.

Page generated in 0.11991 seconds (82.41% PHP - 17.59% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright Đ1999-2012 diyAudio