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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 20th September 2009, 03:10 PM   #21
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Hey Winter, keep the post coming mate, cant wait to see the finished product
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Old 21st September 2009, 03:32 AM   #22
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Thanks Josh and thunk probably will be next weekend before the next serious work occurs, though I might see if I can trim the veneer tonight, as leaving it untrimmed is asking for trouble with a 21 month old running around , I unfortunately don't have anywhere "safe" I can put it...

Tony.
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Old 22nd September 2009, 07:24 AM   #23
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Well I took Tuesday Off, was owed some time in lieue, so today I trimmed the veneer on the back pannel and drilled the binding post holes (they were allready drilled through the mdf, just needed to do the veneer. The reason they were pre-drilled in the mdf was that the inside needed to be routed to accomodate the nuts.

Anyway it didn't go completely without drama. I learned today that I should pre-trim the veneer to maybe a mm or so within the cabinet edge (with a stanley knife or similar) before setting the router loose on it. The long sides had a tendency to have the veneer split off rather than get cut by the router bit. Luckily only a small split happened at the bottom of the box, and a bit of super glue has fixed that up reasonably well. since this is the back I'm not too concerned. You can see the glued in bit of veneer in the top left of the closeup photo.

I couldn't resist putting the binding posts in just to have a look, of course the veneer hasn't been finished yet but I think it looks ok I've allowed for maximum flexibility. One set of binding posts for each driver. 6 channel gainclone anyone seriously though I will initially have an external crossover, but it does leave me the option of bi or even tri amping at a later date (there will already be a biamping happening with the bass units but that is another story.

Anyway usual set of pics. The other box is currently out on the balcony with its bottom piece of veneer gluing down. I think I did a bit better job with the filling on this one, but it still isn't perfect...

1st pic I placed a piece of scrap MDF (this one was used for testing the routing of my tweeter cutouts, and also the routing of the inside of the back baffle for the binding post nuts) to drill through into. was mostly successful, still got a tiny bit of splitting of the veneer around the hole.

2nd pic holes drilled and veneer trimmed. 3rd pic closeup showing the repair. 4th pic binding posts attached

Tony.
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File Type: jpg DSC_4476_crop.jpg (58.4 KB, 500 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_4477.jpg (35.7 KB, 549 views)
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Old 11th October 2009, 04:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheonix358 View Post
Tony, That looks way to tight. It looks as if the clearance on the bottom of the woofer is near to zero. Is it?

Terry
Little did I know when I replied to this post that you were probably one of (if not) the most authoritative person on DIY-Audio to be making that call (when it comes to these drivers) Even more ironic was the next comment I made. I did find the email and my memory didn't fail me, a small amount of silicon applied with a syringe was the recommendation ... I've not done anything yet about this but most certainly will. Could you give me the diameter of the cutout you normally use for the MW144's so I know how far to take them out

I'm hesitant to use the silicon, as I don't really want to "glue" the drivers in. Will certainly be doing some experimenting with damping material and as I have fixed baffles, the only way to change will be taking the drivers in and out.

cheers,

Tony.
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Old 11th October 2009, 04:44 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Little did I know when I replied to this post that you were probably one of (if not) the most authoritative person on DIY-Audio to be making that call (when it comes to these drivers) Even more ironic was the next comment I made. I did find the email and my memory didn't fail me, a small amount of silicon applied with a syringe was the recommendation ... I've not done anything yet about this but most certainly will. Could you give me the diameter of the cutout you normally use for the MW144's so I know how far to take them out

I'm hesitant to use the silicon, as I don't really want to "glue" the drivers in. Will certainly be doing some experimenting with damping material and as I have fixed baffles, the only way to change will be taking the drivers in and out.

cheers,

Tony.
Hi Tony, 118mm is what I use. To fix your problem I would :

Mark out where the screws will go and mark those locations so they are left as is. Now heavily chamfer the rest of the back out. Use a heavy file or you could try a jigsaw, its arkward.

Other options for sealing are to use a soft rubber section 5mm x 5mm. You can get this at rubber stores. A 6mm round also works well.

Hope this helps.

Terry
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Old 11th October 2009, 04:59 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Little did I know when I replied to this post that you were probably one of (if not) the most authoritative person on DIY-Audio to be making that call (when it comes to these drivers) Even more ironic was the next comment I made. I did find the email and my memory didn't fail me, a small amount of silicon applied with a syringe was the recommendation ... I've not done anything yet about this but most certainly will. Could you give me the diameter of the cutout you normally use for the MW144's so I know how far to take them out

I'm hesitant to use the silicon, as I don't really want to "glue" the drivers in. Will certainly be doing some experimenting with damping material and as I have fixed baffles, the only way to change will be taking the drivers in and out.

cheers,

Tony.
One other way is this, works VERY well.

Take a largish following router bit. These are the ones with the roller on the bottom. Change the roller to a smaller one. Run the roller so it just functions. You will cut the difference between the rollar sizes. Change to a router bit with the roller on top or use your routers following attachement. Its lots of work changing bits but it works.

Terry
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Old 11th October 2009, 05:51 AM   #27
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Yes it does! Thanks Terry I just checked and my cutouts are 118mm so I feel a bit better now! I think part of the problem may be the photo's I took were through from the back and I couldn't get a good angle. I can definitely take them out more with the dremel (which is what I resorted to originally after finding a wood rasp a bit tough going). I wasn't sure how much was too much!

I've just taken a few additional pictures, It is really hard to try and show the chamfer with the camera! It always looks much flatter than it really is. To give an idea, the distance from the cutout to the inside edge is 18mm and the baffle is 25mm thick so the chamfer is going the full thickness of 25 mm over a distance of 18mm.. it is not a straight angle though and is convex, I did that in an attempt to make reflections less likely, though on such a small radius that is probably not going to have any effect... perhaps I should have gone concave instead...

Tony.
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Old 11th October 2009, 06:36 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Yes it does! Thanks Terry I just checked and my cutouts are 118mm so I feel a bit better now! I think part of the problem may be the photo's I took were through from the back and I couldn't get a good angle. I can definitely take them out more with the dremel (which is what I resorted to originally after finding a wood rasp a bit tough going). I wasn't sure how much was too much!

I've just taken a few additional pictures, It is really hard to try and show the chamfer with the camera! It always looks much flatter than it really is. To give an idea, the distance from the cutout to the inside edge is 18mm and the baffle is 25mm thick so the chamfer is going the full thickness of 25 mm over a distance of 18mm.. it is not a straight angle though and is convex, I did that in an attempt to make reflections less likely, though on such a small radius that is probably not going to have any effect... perhaps I should have gone concave instead...

Tony.
It may also be that you mounted the drivers when the box was other than flat on its back. You have more clearance on the top as opposed to the bottom. See if you can reposition the driver so that it is even. I suggest you have taken out enough. Looks good. Just for the future, I often make my baffles out of two layers. The outside layer is 16mm HD3, (from Laminex industries) This is the layer I fix the drivers to. The next layer is whatever you want, just to add more 'meat'. The driver holes in the second layer are larger by as much as you want. I like having my cake and eating it too.

Terry
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Last edited by pheonix358; 11th October 2009 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 11th October 2009, 12:32 PM   #29
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Thanks again Terry I'll check for centering next time I mount the drivers! Thanks for the tip about the front baffles. I've been considering doing some sort of laminate for when I finally get around to doing the woofer enclosures (though I was only thinking along the lines of some 16mm MDF laminated with some 9mm marine ply.... I assume the HD3 is more expensive than normal MDF, hence only using for the baffles and not the whole enclosures?

Tony.
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Old 11th October 2009, 12:39 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Thanks again Terry I'll check for centering next time I mount the drivers! Thanks for the tip about the front baffles. I've been considering doing some sort of laminate for when I finally get around to doing the woofer enclosures (though I was only thinking along the lines of some 16mm MDF laminated with some 9mm marine ply.... I assume the HD3 is more expensive than normal MDF, hence only using for the baffles and not the whole enclosures?

Tony.


Hi Tony, it is 3 times the density, equivalent to 48mm. It is also 3 times the price! Certainly doable for small boxes. They will be good boxes. I suggest you glue 6-12 mm of good ply to the hd3. 16mm of anything is thin, too thin for good corners.

Terry
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