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#1 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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I need some input and design ideas for my new project. So far the only things concrete are the midbass drivers, Seas W22EX001, and I'm aiming for a 2 way design (with sub work as an add on).
Things somewhat open for discussion: dipole, using clear acrylic baffle, active 8th order elliptical crossover between 1200-1500Hz. There is a failrly tight budget. I've been/am quite resourceful and managed to get the W22 at a justifiable price thanks to ShinOBIWAN, and I have acrylic material with ability to machine it in abundance, and power amps are not a cost problem [chip amps]. However, I am a crossover newbie so this is one area I'll need a hand. First question is which tweeter? The millenium is the obvious cost-no-object choice since many have already used this combo in OB configuration, but £300+ is way too much for tweeters at this point. Sub £100 to my door is more like it. Which leads me quickly to Zaph's preferences - 27TBFCG or 27TDFC (which I can't find in the UK?). Will any of these be suitable and go low enough? Any other suggestions?
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"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Seattle
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don't know what the cost would be for overseas shipping, but the Parts Express RS28 looks like a possible alterative.
site below shows favorable tests compared to SEAS units. http://206.13.113.199/ncdiyaudio/mar...S28A/RS28A.htm |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Vikash, wouldn't it be easier to go with active crossovers?
I was also looking for the Vifa D26NC55 (unsuccessfully).
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: A bloke from Stoke
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Quote:
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/..._units_80.html scroll down the page, the 27TBFCG is listed at £28 +V. In my experience, (YMMV) without eq there is not enough bass to go down to a sub. Given that you need to xover to both a sub and a tweeter and IMO will have to put in some eq, then active is the way to go, unless you're prepared to put in the effort to design, tweak and test like mad. Cheating and easy, is to go digital with a Behringer DCX2496. Find out what works with slopes, crossovers and eq, then build the discrete circuit if you don't like digital. Kev |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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Quote:
I was only referring to the availability of the 27TDFC
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#6 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tampa
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Hi Vikash,
My only suggestion is that you iso-mount the W22 (bottom pic). An acrylic baffle is just fine if you use this method. I use a DCX for my 8th order elliptic filter (1.3k), WG loaded Vifa XT19. Since I don't know what tweeters are available to you its tough to make a recommendation. Good luck with your project. Cheers, AJ |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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Hi AJ,
I've come across those pics before on the ht forum I think, but was gutted not to see a website link to your design The XT19 is certainly cheap. I've read some mixed opinions regarding ring radiator dispersion, but any info/opinions will be appreciated ![]() edit: how did you use that tweeter with such a low crossover
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#8 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
The breakup modes are quite ferocious on this one and slap bang at just above 2.5Khz. It should be doable but only with steep filters and some heavy duty notch filters. Personally I'd go with the XT25 because I really love the sound of it for such a cheap driver, about 75% of the performance of the SS R2904-7000 that I also love to bits. Now you've got the fancy software Decent modelling software takes a lot of the guess work out of this hobby and its quite incredible just how indepth and accurate it can be. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St. Catherine, Jamaica
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Hey AJinFLA,
How low do your speakers (the ones in post 6) go. The open baffle design looks interesting. The woofers look like they are Peerless subwoofers right?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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I've done a bit of modeling and these dipole response curves do not look appealing to work with. I've been seeing what a baffle roughly the size used in the Orion (12.5" x 18" at a guess) looks like in software, and it is certainly looks like a lot more work required than with a conventional box design.
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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